Is this wheel true enough?
#1
Thread Starter
Watching and waiting.
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From: Mattoon,Ill
Bikes: Trek 7300 Trek Madone 4.5 Surly Cross Check
Is this wheel true enough?
A couple weeks ago I retrued my front wheel using the brake pads. I got all the spokes set to 24 on my park tension meter. (107 kg) on 2.0 straight SS spokes. This took a long time for me so I got on of those truing add ons for my Park workstand. Today I took the tire off and clamped it in. Maximum wobble was .32 mm away from light contact. I flipped the rim over and measured the gap across from the point of contact and the feeler gauge just passed .53 mm.
What do you think?
What do you think?
#2
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I think it's more than adequate. The rims themselves are barely that precise, and often distortion at the joint is far worse than that. Likewise tires aren't perfect either, so you're wheel is well beyond the point where it'll make any difference.
BTW- what are you using that can read trueness down to .01mm (.0004") or roughly 1/10th the thickness of human hair?
BTW- what are you using that can read trueness down to .01mm (.0004") or roughly 1/10th the thickness of human hair?
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
I think it's more than adequate. The rims themselves are barely that precise, and often distortion at the joint is far worse than that. Likewise tires aren't perfect either, so you're wheel is well beyond the point where it'll make any difference.
BTW- what are you using that can read trueness down to .01mm (.0004") or roughly 1/10th the thickness of human hair?
BTW- what are you using that can read trueness down to .01mm (.0004") or roughly 1/10th the thickness of human hair?
#4
Thread Starter
Watching and waiting.
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Mattoon,Ill
Bikes: Trek 7300 Trek Madone 4.5 Surly Cross Check
Using a feeler gauge one literally feels the drag between two surfaces. a .020" gauge didn't drag and a .021" did. So since we should use the Metric System here that converts to .53 mm. On finely polished surfaces one can feel .001" You need to use brass gauges to do this but they're pricey and don't last long. So was it exactly .53mm well no. It was between .020" and .021"
The real purpose of my post was to check my rational on the dishing. I'm glad this is more than enough as I spent 2 hours to get it like this but I learned alot. Thanks for the replies.
The real purpose of my post was to check my rational on the dishing. I'm glad this is more than enough as I spent 2 hours to get it like this but I learned alot. Thanks for the replies.
#6
Thread Starter
Watching and waiting.
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From: Mattoon,Ill
Bikes: Trek 7300 Trek Madone 4.5 Surly Cross Check
#8
I should have you true my wheels! I am not nearly that ambitious. Even spoke tension and "not rubbing the brake pads" is when I call it good enough. I do like to set my brake pads pretty close though.
#9
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Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Years ago at a GEAR rally (who here remembers those) Bill M (Mr Santana) gave a talk. One take away was that he gave up on sew ups a while ago. Seems that with his dial indicator truing jobs his wheels came out to be within some minor amount of thousandths of an inch of run out. Yet the sew up tires were running out by a factor of 10 or 20 of the rims. He said that wire ons (clinchers to most), being molded and not sewn, were much straighter, therefore all he used.
All i thought at the time was how much more run out the wheels would have after a ride or two... Andy.
All i thought at the time was how much more run out the wheels would have after a ride or two... Andy.
#10
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Joined: May 2007
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From: New York metro area
In my view the gold standard is less than 0.20mm for radial true and 0.25mm for lateral true. Any such transitions would also need to be gradual. Working carefully, this can be easily achieved with a dial indicator setup. This also assumes even (within 5%) spoke tension all around (on the same side for rear wheels) so they can stay that way. Even spoke tension is much more important than a perfectly true wheel.
Achieving this degree of exactness can take a fair bit of additional time and most builders would not consider it economic. However, when I put wheels together for myself I take the time and do it right. I estimate that it takes me 5-7 hours per set from lacing to finished tolerances. At least 4 hours of this is evening and fine tuning.
I would not recommend using a truing stand for dish unless you calibrate the stand immediately prior to use as they often go out.
I do agree with the post above that most tubulars (especially handmade) are running out by a factor of 10-20x that the poster cites. So, is it worth it then? I say yes because the brake calipers touch the rim but never the tire so brake throb can be eliminated.
Achieving this degree of exactness can take a fair bit of additional time and most builders would not consider it economic. However, when I put wheels together for myself I take the time and do it right. I estimate that it takes me 5-7 hours per set from lacing to finished tolerances. At least 4 hours of this is evening and fine tuning.
I would not recommend using a truing stand for dish unless you calibrate the stand immediately prior to use as they often go out.
I do agree with the post above that most tubulars (especially handmade) are running out by a factor of 10-20x that the poster cites. So, is it worth it then? I say yes because the brake calipers touch the rim but never the tire so brake throb can be eliminated.
Last edited by Thirstyman; 03-25-12 at 09:51 PM.
#11
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From: Flagler Palm Coast, FL
Bikes: 1986 Fuji Allegro 12 Spd; 2015 Bianchi Kuma 27.2 24 Spd; 1997 Fuji MX-200 21 Spd; 2010 Vilano SS/FG 46/16
I use my finger to determine trueness, lateral and radial. with the wheel bolted tight, I slowly turn the wheel and keep my finger from moving, lightly touching the rim on the sides for lateral true, and on the tire for radial true (provided there are no bald spots from skidding).
#12
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A couple weeks ago I retrued my front wheel using the brake pads. I got all the spokes set to 24 on my park tension meter. (107 kg) on 2.0 straight SS spokes. This took a long time for me so I got on of those truing add ons for my Park workstand. Today I took the tire off and clamped it in. Maximum wobble was .32 mm away from light contact. I flipped the rim over and measured the gap across from the point of contact and the feeler gauge just passed .53 mm.
What do you think?
What do you think?

Obviously.. a good job. Kudos.






