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Is this wheel true enough?

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Old 03-24-12 | 02:02 PM
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Is this wheel true enough?

A couple weeks ago I retrued my front wheel using the brake pads. I got all the spokes set to 24 on my park tension meter. (107 kg) on 2.0 straight SS spokes. This took a long time for me so I got on of those truing add ons for my Park workstand. Today I took the tire off and clamped it in. Maximum wobble was .32 mm away from light contact. I flipped the rim over and measured the gap across from the point of contact and the feeler gauge just passed .53 mm.

What do you think?
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Old 03-24-12 | 02:35 PM
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I think it's more than adequate. The rims themselves are barely that precise, and often distortion at the joint is far worse than that. Likewise tires aren't perfect either, so you're wheel is well beyond the point where it'll make any difference.

BTW- what are you using that can read trueness down to .01mm (.0004") or roughly 1/10th the thickness of human hair?
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Old 03-24-12 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
I think it's more than adequate. The rims themselves are barely that precise, and often distortion at the joint is far worse than that. Likewise tires aren't perfect either, so you're wheel is well beyond the point where it'll make any difference.

BTW- what are you using that can read trueness down to .01mm (.0004") or roughly 1/10th the thickness of human hair?
+1 To expect to get a wheel any more true than that is unrealistic. I think you did just fine, more than good enough. I'm also curious on the uncertainty of the trueness measurement...
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Old 03-24-12 | 07:24 PM
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Using a feeler gauge one literally feels the drag between two surfaces. a .020" gauge didn't drag and a .021" did. So since we should use the Metric System here that converts to .53 mm. On finely polished surfaces one can feel .001" You need to use brass gauges to do this but they're pricey and don't last long. So was it exactly .53mm well no. It was between .020" and .021"

The real purpose of my post was to check my rational on the dishing. I'm glad this is more than enough as I spent 2 hours to get it like this but I learned alot. Thanks for the replies.
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Old 03-24-12 | 10:28 PM
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How about the radial true????
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Old 03-25-12 | 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
How about the radial true????
Less than .008" which is as small as the cheap feeler guages I'm using goes. Maybe these Stock Bontrager SSR 24 spoke wheels are better than I expected. The tires where pretty well junk.
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Old 03-25-12 | 08:52 PM
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Old 03-25-12 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jethro56
The real purpose of my post was to check my rational on the dishing. I'm glad this is more than enough as I spent 2 hours to get it like this but I learned alot. Thanks for the replies.
I should have you true my wheels! I am not nearly that ambitious. Even spoke tension and "not rubbing the brake pads" is when I call it good enough. I do like to set my brake pads pretty close though.
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Old 03-25-12 | 09:12 PM
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Years ago at a GEAR rally (who here remembers those) Bill M (Mr Santana) gave a talk. One take away was that he gave up on sew ups a while ago. Seems that with his dial indicator truing jobs his wheels came out to be within some minor amount of thousandths of an inch of run out. Yet the sew up tires were running out by a factor of 10 or 20 of the rims. He said that wire ons (clinchers to most), being molded and not sewn, were much straighter, therefore all he used.

All i thought at the time was how much more run out the wheels would have after a ride or two... Andy.
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Old 03-25-12 | 09:43 PM
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In my view the gold standard is less than 0.20mm for radial true and 0.25mm for lateral true. Any such transitions would also need to be gradual. Working carefully, this can be easily achieved with a dial indicator setup. This also assumes even (within 5%) spoke tension all around (on the same side for rear wheels) so they can stay that way. Even spoke tension is much more important than a perfectly true wheel.

Achieving this degree of exactness can take a fair bit of additional time and most builders would not consider it economic. However, when I put wheels together for myself I take the time and do it right. I estimate that it takes me 5-7 hours per set from lacing to finished tolerances. At least 4 hours of this is evening and fine tuning.

I would not recommend using a truing stand for dish unless you calibrate the stand immediately prior to use as they often go out.

I do agree with the post above that most tubulars (especially handmade) are running out by a factor of 10-20x that the poster cites. So, is it worth it then? I say yes because the brake calipers touch the rim but never the tire so brake throb can be eliminated.

Last edited by Thirstyman; 03-25-12 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 03-25-12 | 11:51 PM
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I use my finger to determine trueness, lateral and radial. with the wheel bolted tight, I slowly turn the wheel and keep my finger from moving, lightly touching the rim on the sides for lateral true, and on the tire for radial true (provided there are no bald spots from skidding).
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Old 03-26-12 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jethro56
A couple weeks ago I retrued my front wheel using the brake pads. I got all the spokes set to 24 on my park tension meter. (107 kg) on 2.0 straight SS spokes. This took a long time for me so I got on of those truing add ons for my Park workstand. Today I took the tire off and clamped it in. Maximum wobble was .32 mm away from light contact. I flipped the rim over and measured the gap across from the point of contact and the feeler gauge just passed .53 mm.

What do you think?
IMO.. your fishin' for compliments...

Obviously.. a good job. Kudos.
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