Did the search and didn't find a good thread on the subject. Possibly someone viewing has a link that goes into detail. I know the basics.. the refinement part per shifting smoothly up and down on a handlebar mounted 7 sp is what I am dealing with now.

Thanks.

What kind of "handlebar mounted" shifter are you referring to? Brifters oin drop bars? Trigger or twist shifters on flat bars?

MTB trigger shifters on a flat bar.

Can you be clearer about exactly what issue you are dealing with?

It sounds like there is something quite specific you are encountering. Because, in general, shifting is simple. While pedaling, preferably not under a high load, push lever one click to move chain one cog. If using friction, push lever until chain moves one cog, adjust lever position to minimize noise. I mean, there's not much more to it . . .

Thumb shifters, Rapidfire style. Do the shifters index? 'Fine tuning' a bar mounted shifter is not much different than a DT mounted one except you may have an extra adjuster barrel

Specifically.. I get good shifting.. yet I can't get the high gear to move over.. stays on the 2nd smallest cog. Derailer limit setting is correct.

I replaced the cable on my winter rider MTB with same shifting system... works decent. I'll go back and try and match the cable tension on that one.

I have had terrific luck with the Shimano Tourney trigger shifters, cost all of $13 for a set, including housings and cables. Tough to beat.

To adjust your rear shifting properly, follow this procedure step by step, from the beginning, without skipping ANY steps: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur. Assuming that nothing is bent or broken, this will work. Don't try to "match" your other bike, that is irrelevant.

I Use some pretty basic thumb shifters . Nitto northroad/albatross bar..
the cable run smooth curves, friction. micro-ratchet, 6 and 7 speed..
no real, issues.. There are bar end shifters on the drop bar bikes.

Only my IG hub bikes 'index', the derailleur bikes are all in a friction mode..

Interesting information but of absolutely no use to the OP.

What? You were able to glean what info is of use to the OP??? Amazing! Could you rephrase the OP's question, if there is one?

I can't figure out OP, myself, but...

For road 7-speed I really like my RSX shifters I have on my 1999 Interval.

For MTB I like XC-Pro, XT or DX thumbshifters in 7-speed.
Most of the better Gripshifts are 8-speed or more, but MRX works OK for 7-sp.
Another favorite no one has mentioned yet is Suntour wishbone action!


Suntour wishbone shifters 1990 by felixdelrio, on Flickr

Wait, I think I get the OP now. Seems like cable tension adjustment help is needed. Go to that Park link posted above and scroll down to "Index Setting".

Adjusters can be found on your derailer, shifter and/or downtube cable stops. Basically you loosen adjuster to make it easier to get rear derailer into lower gears and you tighten adjuster to make it easier to get into higher gears.

Gents.. and Lady's if reading.. I ID'd the problem.

SortaGrey: Would you please share your findings with the group?

Dsbrantjr; you derailleur hanger isn't bent is it? good shifting except for the smallest cog is sort of a classic sign of a bent hanger.

Or you're a whole index off with your barrell.

Bianchigirll: Methinks you confuse me with the OP.
IthaDan: If your conjecture is true the procedure I cited will remedy it, the barrel adjuster may not have enough range to do so.

Not really but I was pretty certain it had nothing to do with IGH gearing and bar end friction shifters.

Could be cable tension is too high, too much friction in cables, bent derailer hanger, cassette/freewheel might have a spacer behind it yet doesn't need one, derailer could be bent, etc.

What shifter/derailer/cassette or freewheel/bike do you have?

Gladly. I was moving the rear tension adjustment too much with each move.. 1/4 turns or less as per the Park guide.

And.. the combo is on an older bike which employed downtube friction shifting.. which added the friction of the
turn at the seat tube bottom area... that area also freshly painted. Lubed that a mite.. fiddled with the tension. Doing acceptable now.. wants a lite touch on the controls.

I have 2-3 more to do.. as I refine my technique I'll likely come back and tune this unit just a little more.

Actually.. this setup it probably working as good as expected. I see the other frame to do has two cable stops at the bottom where said turn is on the unit just completed. That one is next... might refine the first one along those lines.