threadless converter?
#1
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threadless converter?
Recently I bought a really nice used steel frame which came with a steel fork and a threaded headset. Originally I was planning to get a carbon fork and install a threadless headset, but then I decided to keep the steel fork.
However I have a contemporary aluminum handlebar (31.8"), and don't want to switch to an old style one and quill stem. So I ordered a quill stem converter:
https://www.profile-design.com/profil...converter.html
Is this a reliable solution? (ignoring the extra 100g weight
Hey don't laugh, the steel frame itself is freaking light)
Anything I should be careful about? Also does anyone know how much torque should I use to tighten the quill converter?
However I have a contemporary aluminum handlebar (31.8"), and don't want to switch to an old style one and quill stem. So I ordered a quill stem converter:
https://www.profile-design.com/profil...converter.html
Is this a reliable solution? (ignoring the extra 100g weight
Hey don't laugh, the steel frame itself is freaking light)Anything I should be careful about? Also does anyone know how much torque should I use to tighten the quill converter?
Last edited by ElGatoSeis; 04-26-12 at 12:06 AM.
#2
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It'll work fine and no worries at all. I've used one for thousands of miles. Note that you can improve the look some by putting a spacer below the bars so the converter won't be quite so obvious but this isn't necessary - purely for looks.
Since you're going into a steel steerer tube you shouldn't need to worry too much about over tightening as long as you don't use a 5 foot breaker bar on it
If you're using a torque wrench, somewhere in the neighborhood of 19 Nm should be fine.
Since you're going into a steel steerer tube you shouldn't need to worry too much about over tightening as long as you don't use a 5 foot breaker bar on it
If you're using a torque wrench, somewhere in the neighborhood of 19 Nm should be fine.
Last edited by ghsmith54; 04-26-12 at 02:05 AM. Reason: Added torque spec
#3
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
As said above, the adapter will work fine, and the only penalty is a bit of added weight. Since it's basically a quill stem,it's only function is to support the handlebat, and provide enough holding traction to steer the bike, which is very little. Rather than rely on a torque wrench, consider tightening it the old fashioned way, by degrees until the handlebar resists twisting when you hold the front wheel in your legs.
Decades ago, many applied the concept of "race tight" when tightening quill stems. Race tight was tight enough not to move under normal conditions, but still loose enough to twist in a crash. This helped reduce damage to front end parts in a crash. It isn't as practical with threadless systems since the stemm has to be tight enough to retain the headset adjustment.
Decades ago, many applied the concept of "race tight" when tightening quill stems. Race tight was tight enough not to move under normal conditions, but still loose enough to twist in a crash. This helped reduce damage to front end parts in a crash. It isn't as practical with threadless systems since the stemm has to be tight enough to retain the headset adjustment.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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