Chain Size: I know, I should know better
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Northampton, MA
Bikes: 198? Sport Racing Frame of unknown origins, 1992 Marin Bear Valley, 1970 Raleigh Sport
Chain Size: I know, I should know better
I am embarrassed to ask, but what is the typical chain size for a MTB? I know that most chains come with 108 or 116 links, but what about width. I'm trying to buy a chain online, and I'm getting confused. This is for a 1995ish Univega. Thanks guys.
#2
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
The chain width needs to match the number of cogs (gears) in the back, 9-speed, 10-speed, etc. The chain length needs to be cut to the correct length for your particular frame and drive train. If you have any doubt how to do this you should take the bike to a bike shop and let them sell you the chain and install it properly.
#3
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Northampton, MA
Bikes: 198? Sport Racing Frame of unknown origins, 1992 Marin Bear Valley, 1970 Raleigh Sport
I understand that this is best left up to a LBS, but I do not like any around my area and do not feel like the LBSs in my area are friendly or fair. Also-- I got this bike with the intention of teaching myself.
The chain width needs to match the number of cogs (gears) in the back, 9-speed, 10-speed, etc. The chain length needs to be cut to the correct length for your particular frame and drive train. If you have any doubt how to do this you should take the bike to a bike shop and let them sell you the chain and install it properly.
#4
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Count the number of gears in back: six, seven, eight or whatever; and get chain that matches that count. The lower the count, the lower the cost of the chain. Will need a chain tool as well. Sheldon Brown site has good info on chain length.
Good chain tools are not cheap, but can last a really long time. So get a good one. Tools rarely pay for themselves on the first job.
Good chain tools are not cheap, but can last a really long time. So get a good one. Tools rarely pay for themselves on the first job.
#5
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Northampton, MA
Bikes: 198? Sport Racing Frame of unknown origins, 1992 Marin Bear Valley, 1970 Raleigh Sport
#6
Gosh no, it's not's anything any normal person can't handle even with zero experience. Order the chain according to how many gears you have on the back wheel. Get a chain tool to take links off, it's a little clamp thing that costs 3 or 4 dollars. Make it the same length as the one you have, or search the web on how to determine the right length for your gears. Instructions come with the chain on how to connect it together. It's very simple.
#7
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Northampton, MA
Bikes: 198? Sport Racing Frame of unknown origins, 1992 Marin Bear Valley, 1970 Raleigh Sport
Thanks
I'm not too inexperienced, just self-taught and catching on.
I'm not too inexperienced, just self-taught and catching on. Gosh no, it's not's anything any normal person can't handle even with zero experience. Order the chain according to how many gears you have on the back wheel. Get a chain tool to take links off, it's a little clamp thing that costs 3 or 4 dollars. Make it the same length as the one you have, or search the web on how to determine the right length for your gears. Instructions come with the chain on how to connect it together. It's very simple.
#8
Thread Starter
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From: Northampton, MA
Bikes: 198? Sport Racing Frame of unknown origins, 1992 Marin Bear Valley, 1970 Raleigh Sport
So if my road bike has 2 gears in the front and 5 in the back, its a ten speed, right? Then my Univega has 3 gears in the front and eight in the back, that makes it an 18 speed bike. Do I look for a 5 speed chain for the road bike and an 8 speed chain for the Univega?
#9
yep. If the chains are unusually worn out don't be surprised if you need to change the rear sprockets also before long. An old chain can wear those gears down, in which case the new chain may skip or slip on the cogs. But cross that bridge when you come to it.
#10
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From: Northampton, MA
Bikes: 198? Sport Racing Frame of unknown origins, 1992 Marin Bear Valley, 1970 Raleigh Sport
+1 You are a smart man. Thank you!
#11
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Half right (the important half). Five speeds in the rear is referred to as five speed, even though it might have as many as 15 total speeds (3 rings in front). Chain just cares about the rear speeds. Typically, you will find 5/6 speed chain. 7 speed, 8 speed, 9 speed, etc. The 5/6 and 7 speed chains are pretty cheap, it goes up from there. I typically use KMC Z30/Z33 for 5/6 speed, costs about $4.50 on line. I use KMC Z50 for 7 speed, costs about $5.50. These prices do not include shipping, so unless you are buying a lot of stuff, the shipping gets you. Jensen offers free shipping with a $50 order, and they price match to anyone else. So I usually order there anymore.
#12
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
It's a cog count.. 5,6,7,8 use a chain common to all , and packaged as such,
9, and 10 on the rear cassette, each have their designated chain..
more 'speeds', cost more bucks ..
got a proper chain tool to shorten an over long one..?
9, and 10 on the rear cassette, each have their designated chain..
more 'speeds', cost more bucks ..
got a proper chain tool to shorten an over long one..?
#13
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Lebanon/Ukraine
Bikes: Giant CRS 2 (2009)
It's very easy to shorten the chain with the right tool, which doesn't have to be expensive if you just want to maintain your own bike. I bought a ~$5 chain tool and have used it about 10 times with no issues.
Here are three methods to achieve adequate chain length:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...-length-sizing
I use the Simple Equation described on that page, for what it's worth.
Here are three methods to achieve adequate chain length:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...-length-sizing
I use the Simple Equation described on that page, for what it's worth.
#14
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
I'd suggest that you get a chain which has a reuseable "master link" for ease in installation and removal of your chain. Master links are available separately as well. You will still need a chain tool to trim the chain to length initially. Here is a link to an article on how to size your chain: https://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain






