installing drop bars in a quill stem without scratching them
#1
installing drop bars in a quill stem without scratching them
i've never really been able to install a set of drop bars in a quill stem (standard size with a non-removable face) without getting at least some minor scratching on them.
it's never been an issue, as i've always just taped the bar up and everything has looked good, but i'm going to install a track bar which will be untaped, except for the lower drops, and i want it to look clean.
i figure the opening on the stem has to be pryed open somewhat, but what's the best way to do this and how much is it safe to pry open?
thanks!
it's never been an issue, as i've always just taped the bar up and everything has looked good, but i'm going to install a track bar which will be untaped, except for the lower drops, and i want it to look clean.
i figure the opening on the stem has to be pryed open somewhat, but what's the best way to do this and how much is it safe to pry open?
thanks!
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Originally Posted by brunning
i've never really been able to install a set of drop bars in a quill stem (standard size with a non-removable face) without getting at least some minor scratching on them.
it's never been an issue, as i've always just taped the bar up and everything has looked good, but i'm going to install a track bar which will be untaped, except for the lower drops, and i want it to look clean.
i figure the opening on the stem has to be pryed open somewhat, but what's the best way to do this and how much is it safe to pry open?
thanks!
it's never been an issue, as i've always just taped the bar up and everything has looked good, but i'm going to install a track bar which will be untaped, except for the lower drops, and i want it to look clean.
i figure the opening on the stem has to be pryed open somewhat, but what's the best way to do this and how much is it safe to pry open?
thanks!
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Bikes: Colnago Altain, Klein Pulse II, Stumpjumper FSR, GT Zaskar LE, Pedalforce RS2
I've had the same challenge on almost every quill stem. With the exception of the ITM Eclipse which has small radius cuts on the backside of the clamping area. That little cutout made a huge difference when I would slide the bar in. When I encountered a curve in the bar, I could rotate the bar so that the inside of the curve would be at the cutout making installation smooth and scratch free.
I wonder if temporarily lubricating the bar in the same fashion that is used to install grips on mountain bikes. Soapy water on the bar side that will be slipped thru the quill. The soap will evaporate leaving no slippery substances that could affect your installation later.
Or do they make quill stems that have a removable endcap?
I wonder if temporarily lubricating the bar in the same fashion that is used to install grips on mountain bikes. Soapy water on the bar side that will be slipped thru the quill. The soap will evaporate leaving no slippery substances that could affect your installation later.
Or do they make quill stems that have a removable endcap?
#5
Originally Posted by brunning
i've never really been able to install a set of drop bars in a quill stem (standard size with a non-removable face) without getting at least some minor scratching on them.
it's never been an issue, as i've always just taped the bar up and everything has looked good, but i'm going to install a track bar which will be untaped, except for the lower drops, and i want it to look clean.
i figure the opening on the stem has to be pryed open somewhat, but what's the best way to do this and how much is it safe to pry open?
thanks!
it's never been an issue, as i've always just taped the bar up and everything has looked good, but i'm going to install a track bar which will be untaped, except for the lower drops, and i want it to look clean.
i figure the opening on the stem has to be pryed open somewhat, but what's the best way to do this and how much is it safe to pry open?
thanks!
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 592
Likes: 2
From: Bend, OR
Bikes: American Breezer mtb, American Classic ti road bike w/SRAM Force and XO, Crotch Rocket, SOMA 69'er w/XX-1 mtb, Handsome Shop Bike w/700c wheels. Bianchi SS 'cross
Unscrew the clamp bolt, insert a penny in the slot, and carefully tighten the bolt against the penny. This will increase the diameter and simplify the installation. Also, lightly filing the inside edge of the stem clamp (Which won't show) will also help to minimize scratching. As has been mentioned, there are a couple different bar/clamp sizes (25.8 & 26.0), but using the penny tech tip and smoothing the clamp has allowed me to complete any road/track bar - quill stem combination without scratching.
#7
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 1
From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Originally Posted by squeegy200
Or do they make quill stems that have a removable endcap?
#8
Originally Posted by gruppo
Unscrew the clamp bolt, insert a penny in the slot, and carefully tighten the bolt against the penny. This will increase the diameter and simplify the installation. Also, lightly filing the inside edge of the stem clamp (Which won't show) will also help to minimize scratching. As has been mentioned, there are a couple different bar/clamp sizes (25.8 & 26.0), but using the penny tech tip and smoothing the clamp has allowed me to complete any road/track bar - quill stem combination without scratching.
#9
I can't find my pants

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,331
Likes: 2
From: UMASS, Amherst/ Swick, MA
Bikes: 07 Specialized Langster Comp,06 Kona King Zing, 06 Specialized Rockhopper Pro Disc; 03 LOOK KG461;(destroyed by suv); 85 Panasonic Team America; 73 Peugeot U0-8; 94 Balance Super B BMX; 04 Diamondback Outlook MTB, Diamondback DBR DH
Originally Posted by gruppo
Also, lightly filing the inside edge of the stem clamp (Which won't show) will also help to minimize scratching.
#10
Rebel Thousandaire
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 733
Likes: 1
From: Hartford, CT
Bikes: Public D8, Yuba Mundo (cargo), Novara Buzz (1-speed, soon to be 2-speed w/ a kickback hub), Xootr 1-speed folder
I have found that slathering the bar with heavy lubricant does a pretty good job of protecting it, so long as you're working with the right sized clamp. Of course, if that doesn't work, there's always bar tape to cover your mistakes.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: NY
Bikes: M- 2000 Trek 7000zx ____ R- 1990 Trek 1000
yeah ive had this problem before installing all kinds of bars, even straight bars.
but it seems the best advice here is to smooth (ramp slightly) the inside edges of the stem clamp,
and wedge it open with a penny, or perhaps even a nickel or a quarter if needed.
no grease/soap is really needed if youve deburred the stem clamp. bacause its the edges only that will scratch the bars. nothing else.
but it seems the best advice here is to smooth (ramp slightly) the inside edges of the stem clamp,
and wedge it open with a penny, or perhaps even a nickel or a quarter if needed.
no grease/soap is really needed if youve deburred the stem clamp. bacause its the edges only that will scratch the bars. nothing else.
#12
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
The most likely place to scratch the bars is on the curves at the open, sharp ends of the stem opening. So, instead of taping the bar, try putting electrical tape on the stem opening (s) where it would protect the bar at the critical curve as you pass the bar thru the stem. You can safely pry the stem open a couple of mm, enough for tape clearance. Some wax lubricant or petroleum jelly on the tape may also help.
#13
Senior Member

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
At my old LBS job we had a special tool for this. It looked like a mini-crowbar with a U on each end (that went around the binder bolt). It gave that 0.5mm extra spread needed.
My home equivalent is a big flat blade screwdriver with about 5 layers of electrical tape on the tip.
My home equivalent is a big flat blade screwdriver with about 5 layers of electrical tape on the tip.
#14
Originally Posted by F1_Fan
At my old LBS job we had a special tool for this. It looked like a mini-crowbar with a U on each end (that went around the binder bolt). It gave that 0.5mm extra spread needed.
My home equivalent is a big flat blade screwdriver with about 5 layers of electrical tape on the tip.
My home equivalent is a big flat blade screwdriver with about 5 layers of electrical tape on the tip.
#15
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, CA USA
Bikes: 2007 Rivendell Atlantis, 2017 RRB Cycles Custom, 1982 Trek 728
The Vaughan Mini Bar is nearly this tool, I imagine. Like the screw driver, it is best to wrap the end of the tool in electrical tape to keep from marring up the stem.
#16
rebmeM roineS

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,231
Likes: 365
From: Metro Indy, IN
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Good tip.
Probably quite a few less quill stems in use now than there were 11 years ago, when this Zombie Thread went to sleep.
Probably quite a few less quill stems in use now than there were 11 years ago, when this Zombie Thread went to sleep.
__________________
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
#17
Freshman Member



Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5,872
Likes: 4,162
From: City of Angels
Bikes: A few too many
2 flathead screwdrivers as a wedge...JM2C's Ben
__________________
"EVERY PERSON IS GUILTY OF ALL THE GOOD THEY DID NOT DO"
Voltaire
Voice recognition may sometimes create odd spelling and grammatical errors
"EVERY PERSON IS GUILTY OF ALL THE GOOD THEY DID NOT DO"
Voltaire
Voice recognition may sometimes create odd spelling and grammatical errors






