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installing drop bars in a quill stem without scratching them

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installing drop bars in a quill stem without scratching them

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Old 01-19-05 | 11:59 AM
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installing drop bars in a quill stem without scratching them

i've never really been able to install a set of drop bars in a quill stem (standard size with a non-removable face) without getting at least some minor scratching on them.

it's never been an issue, as i've always just taped the bar up and everything has looked good, but i'm going to install a track bar which will be untaped, except for the lower drops, and i want it to look clean.

i figure the opening on the stem has to be pryed open somewhat, but what's the best way to do this and how much is it safe to pry open?

thanks!
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Old 01-19-05 | 01:56 PM
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How about covering the half you are threading through the stem with electrical tape or something super thin, that you can then just remove after installation?
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Old 01-19-05 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by brunning
i've never really been able to install a set of drop bars in a quill stem (standard size with a non-removable face) without getting at least some minor scratching on them.

it's never been an issue, as i've always just taped the bar up and everything has looked good, but i'm going to install a track bar which will be untaped, except for the lower drops, and i want it to look clean.

i figure the opening on the stem has to be pryed open somewhat, but what's the best way to do this and how much is it safe to pry open?

thanks!
The really key thing is to make sure that your stem has the right clamp size for your handlebar. If they're right, they go together pretty easily. There used to be several different diameters, that were just a shade off, complicating the process.
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Old 01-19-05 | 03:34 PM
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I've had the same challenge on almost every quill stem. With the exception of the ITM Eclipse which has small radius cuts on the backside of the clamping area. That little cutout made a huge difference when I would slide the bar in. When I encountered a curve in the bar, I could rotate the bar so that the inside of the curve would be at the cutout making installation smooth and scratch free.

I wonder if temporarily lubricating the bar in the same fashion that is used to install grips on mountain bikes. Soapy water on the bar side that will be slipped thru the quill. The soap will evaporate leaving no slippery substances that could affect your installation later.

Or do they make quill stems that have a removable endcap?
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Old 01-19-05 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by brunning
i've never really been able to install a set of drop bars in a quill stem (standard size with a non-removable face) without getting at least some minor scratching on them.

it's never been an issue, as i've always just taped the bar up and everything has looked good, but i'm going to install a track bar which will be untaped, except for the lower drops, and i want it to look clean.

i figure the opening on the stem has to be pryed open somewhat, but what's the best way to do this and how much is it safe to pry open?

thanks!
The simple answer is to wedge the stem apart slightly. How and how much depends on the particular stem.
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Old 01-19-05 | 03:53 PM
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Unscrew the clamp bolt, insert a penny in the slot, and carefully tighten the bolt against the penny. This will increase the diameter and simplify the installation. Also, lightly filing the inside edge of the stem clamp (Which won't show) will also help to minimize scratching. As has been mentioned, there are a couple different bar/clamp sizes (25.8 & 26.0), but using the penny tech tip and smoothing the clamp has allowed me to complete any road/track bar - quill stem combination without scratching.
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Old 01-19-05 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by squeegy200
Or do they make quill stems that have a removable endcap?
Nashbar sells a modolo quill stem with front loading (26 mm clamp), on sale for $20. I'm probably gonna pick one of these up.
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Old 01-19-05 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gruppo
Unscrew the clamp bolt, insert a penny in the slot, and carefully tighten the bolt against the penny. This will increase the diameter and simplify the installation. Also, lightly filing the inside edge of the stem clamp (Which won't show) will also help to minimize scratching. As has been mentioned, there are a couple different bar/clamp sizes (25.8 & 26.0), but using the penny tech tip and smoothing the clamp has allowed me to complete any road/track bar - quill stem combination without scratching.
The penny trick does not work with alot of them.
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Old 01-19-05 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gruppo
Also, lightly filing the inside edge of the stem clamp (Which won't show) will also help to minimize scratching.
I don't know about the penny, but I do use a nail file to smooth out the edges of the stem clamp, then put handsoap on the bars. Slides right through with no problem, and like said above, the soap will dry.
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Old 01-20-05 | 03:43 PM
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I have found that slathering the bar with heavy lubricant does a pretty good job of protecting it, so long as you're working with the right sized clamp. Of course, if that doesn't work, there's always bar tape to cover your mistakes.
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Old 01-20-05 | 07:39 PM
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yeah ive had this problem before installing all kinds of bars, even straight bars.

but it seems the best advice here is to smooth (ramp slightly) the inside edges of the stem clamp,
and wedge it open with a penny, or perhaps even a nickel or a quarter if needed.
no grease/soap is really needed if youve deburred the stem clamp. bacause its the edges only that will scratch the bars. nothing else.
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Old 01-20-05 | 07:44 PM
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The most likely place to scratch the bars is on the curves at the open, sharp ends of the stem opening. So, instead of taping the bar, try putting electrical tape on the stem opening (s) where it would protect the bar at the critical curve as you pass the bar thru the stem. You can safely pry the stem open a couple of mm, enough for tape clearance. Some wax lubricant or petroleum jelly on the tape may also help.
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Old 01-20-05 | 07:56 PM
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At my old LBS job we had a special tool for this. It looked like a mini-crowbar with a U on each end (that went around the binder bolt). It gave that 0.5mm extra spread needed.

My home equivalent is a big flat blade screwdriver with about 5 layers of electrical tape on the tip.
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Old 01-20-05 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by F1_Fan
At my old LBS job we had a special tool for this. It looked like a mini-crowbar with a U on each end (that went around the binder bolt). It gave that 0.5mm extra spread needed.

My home equivalent is a big flat blade screwdriver with about 5 layers of electrical tape on the tip.
Bingo!
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Old 03-18-16 | 07:26 PM
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The Vaughan Mini Bar is nearly this tool, I imagine. Like the screw driver, it is best to wrap the end of the tool in electrical tape to keep from marring up the stem.
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Old 03-18-16 | 07:46 PM
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Good tip.

Probably quite a few less quill stems in use now than there were 11 years ago, when this Zombie Thread went to sleep.
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Old 03-18-16 | 09:38 PM
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2 flathead screwdrivers as a wedge...JM2C's Ben
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