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Anti-seize or not?

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Old 02-18-13 | 09:31 PM
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Anti-seize or not?

Getting ready to put a new FSA MegaExo bottom bracket in a new aluminum frame.

If it was steel BB into a steel frame, I would naturally put a bit of grease on the threads before starting them in.

However for these new alloy cups into an AL frame... thinking I should ask first:

What is the current best practice? Use nothing or use anti-seize compound or just some grease?

Along the same lines, should I adjust the torque setting if using either of the compounds?

thanks, appreciate any inputs
/K
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Old 02-18-13 | 09:36 PM
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Dissimilar mettals need anti sieze. Do not exceed torque spec.
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Old 02-18-13 | 09:39 PM
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I use Tef-Gel for all such dissimilar metal joints. It contains a large proportion of Teflon and is intended for use in marine environments where corrosion potential is severe. I would avoid other types of antiseize materials, such as NevaSeez, which contain metallic particles which could exacerbate electrolytic corrosion.
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Old 02-18-13 | 09:44 PM
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The Op's situation is with simialr metals. Both the shell and the Bb cartridge are Alu. I'm no chemist or mechanical engineer but i'd use marine grade grease. I also would so a break down and reassembly every year or few thousand miles, more often if there's a lot of rain. Andy.
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Old 02-18-13 | 10:02 PM
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The potential for corrosion, galling or seizing still exists with aluminum alloys, especially with exposure to road salts.
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Old 02-18-13 | 11:11 PM
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I think the advised standard for aluminum alloys is zinc based anti sieze..

Loctite® Zinc Anti-Seize

Loctite® Zinc Anti-Seize (formerly C-638) is a smooth, homogenous mixture of zinc dust and petrolatum. It prevents seizing during assembly or disassembly of threaded or unthreaded metal joints--particuarly if these metal joints involve aluminum or aluminum alloys. Zinc Anti-Seize also provides corrosion protection for both aluminum and ferrous metal (iron Base) components. Within a metal threaded connection, it acts like an “internal galvanize” using the electrochemical properties of the zinc dust to protect iron surfaces.

https://www.kraftindustrialsupply.com...lubricants.htm
But there are a slew of them, and my guess is you're also good with the graphite based ones, too.

If I had to guess, I'd guess that almost anything on the threads will work unless you
are in some very wet or otherwise corrosive conditions (like near the ocean.)

There's a current thread on creaking in BB units here.

Is yours a similar type ?(sorry, but I don't know from your numbers.)

If so, you might consider this ahead of time.

Last edited by 3alarmer; 02-18-13 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 02-18-13 | 11:21 PM
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Anti-seize may be a little better in this situation but almost any grease will be plenty good plus grease is easier to clean off when it comes time to re-assemble. As Andrew R Stuart mentioned marine grease is one of the best types to use for all your bike thread protection and bearing needs. No need to get too anal, just re-grease every 2 years or so.
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Old 02-18-13 | 11:38 PM
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all the BB's I've installed have had a hard plated coating thats not just iron. the spec sheets say to put grease on them for assembly, regardless of whether its a steel or alloy frame.
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Old 02-18-13 | 11:57 PM
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It really doesn't matter what you use as long as you use something. The enemy is water, and a dry assembled thread is a perfect capillary which will wick water fiercely if wet. Grease, or anti-seize, or toothpaste will act as a sealant filling all the voids in the thread, keeping water out and thereby preventing corrosion.

If there are dissimilar metals, than the sacrificial metal powder in the anti-seize has the added benefit of preventing galvanic corrosion, but this isn't a factor when joining like metals.
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