Anti-seize or not?
#1
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Anti-seize or not?
Getting ready to put a new FSA MegaExo bottom bracket in a new aluminum frame.
If it was steel BB into a steel frame, I would naturally put a bit of grease on the threads before starting them in.
However for these new alloy cups into an AL frame... thinking I should ask first:
What is the current best practice? Use nothing or use anti-seize compound or just some grease?
Along the same lines, should I adjust the torque setting if using either of the compounds?
thanks, appreciate any inputs
/K
If it was steel BB into a steel frame, I would naturally put a bit of grease on the threads before starting them in.
However for these new alloy cups into an AL frame... thinking I should ask first:
What is the current best practice? Use nothing or use anti-seize compound or just some grease?
Along the same lines, should I adjust the torque setting if using either of the compounds?
thanks, appreciate any inputs
/K
#3
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
I use Tef-Gel for all such dissimilar metal joints. It contains a large proportion of Teflon and is intended for use in marine environments where corrosion potential is severe. I would avoid other types of antiseize materials, such as NevaSeez, which contain metallic particles which could exacerbate electrolytic corrosion.
#4
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
The Op's situation is with simialr metals. Both the shell and the Bb cartridge are Alu. I'm no chemist or mechanical engineer but i'd use marine grade grease. I also would so a break down and reassembly every year or few thousand miles, more often if there's a lot of rain. Andy.
#6
I think the advised standard for aluminum alloys is zinc based anti sieze..
Loctite® Zinc Anti-Seize
Loctite® Zinc Anti-Seize (formerly C-638) is a smooth, homogenous mixture of zinc dust and petrolatum. It prevents seizing during assembly or disassembly of threaded or unthreaded metal joints--particuarly if these metal joints involve aluminum or aluminum alloys. Zinc Anti-Seize also provides corrosion protection for both aluminum and ferrous metal (iron Base) components. Within a metal threaded connection, it acts like an “internal galvanize” using the electrochemical properties of the zinc dust to protect iron surfaces.
https://www.kraftindustrialsupply.com...lubricants.htm
Loctite® Zinc Anti-Seize (formerly C-638) is a smooth, homogenous mixture of zinc dust and petrolatum. It prevents seizing during assembly or disassembly of threaded or unthreaded metal joints--particuarly if these metal joints involve aluminum or aluminum alloys. Zinc Anti-Seize also provides corrosion protection for both aluminum and ferrous metal (iron Base) components. Within a metal threaded connection, it acts like an “internal galvanize” using the electrochemical properties of the zinc dust to protect iron surfaces.
https://www.kraftindustrialsupply.com...lubricants.htm
If I had to guess, I'd guess that almost anything on the threads will work unless you
are in some very wet or otherwise corrosive conditions (like near the ocean.)
There's a current thread on creaking in BB units here.
Is yours a similar type ?(sorry, but I don't know from your numbers.)
If so, you might consider this ahead of time.
Last edited by 3alarmer; 02-18-13 at 11:15 PM.
#7
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From: San Diego, CA
Anti-seize may be a little better in this situation but almost any grease will be plenty good plus grease is easier to clean off when it comes time to re-assemble. As Andrew R Stuart mentioned marine grease is one of the best types to use for all your bike thread protection and bearing needs. No need to get too anal, just re-grease every 2 years or so.
#9
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
It really doesn't matter what you use as long as you use something. The enemy is water, and a dry assembled thread is a perfect capillary which will wick water fiercely if wet. Grease, or anti-seize, or toothpaste will act as a sealant filling all the voids in the thread, keeping water out and thereby preventing corrosion.
If there are dissimilar metals, than the sacrificial metal powder in the anti-seize has the added benefit of preventing galvanic corrosion, but this isn't a factor when joining like metals.
If there are dissimilar metals, than the sacrificial metal powder in the anti-seize has the added benefit of preventing galvanic corrosion, but this isn't a factor when joining like metals.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.





