Chris King headset question
#1
Chris King headset question
So, I don't know much about headsets. I just got my frame back from being repaired and the Griplock cap from the NoThreadSet (2008ish) is stuck at the top of the fork. Do I need a tool to push this thing down? It seems very very tight and I don't want to damage the steel steer tube by forcing it down. See pics.
Thanks.

Thanks.

Last edited by powpow; 05-27-13 at 01:21 PM.
#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
How did it get up there, did you cut the fork down? In any case you can push it down with any sort of punch. But before you do so, see of your cap screw is short enough to allow the cap to be tightened against the end of the fork.
This is the acid test, since in use the cap will need to be tightened until it's not quite touching the fork (1-4mm gap). If you can bottom out the cap, that's farther than you'll ever need to so you're good to go.
This is the acid test, since in use the cap will need to be tightened until it's not quite touching the fork (1-4mm gap). If you can bottom out the cap, that's farther than you'll ever need to so you're good to go.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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#3
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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Burrs left inside the steerer tube , I see, so there may be also burrs on the outside.
remove the part in the top picture and clean up the cut edge to remove the burrs .
a 6" long half round file should be the tool to use..
though a Carborundum grit paper or cloth and a wooden dowel and flat stick
as a backing for the abrasive will Do.
remove the part in the top picture and clean up the cut edge to remove the burrs .
a 6" long half round file should be the tool to use..
though a Carborundum grit paper or cloth and a wooden dowel and flat stick
as a backing for the abrasive will Do.
#4
Since I don't own a punch, it there some other common tool I could use? I suppose I could go to the hardware store but they're closed today. Or best to head to the LBS? Obviously, I'd prefer to do it myself. Thanks.
#5
I don't know the installation procedure for a Griplock cap, but I doubt it involves the use of a punch. The Griplock cap should probably be removed so the problem can be assessed and corrected -- by you or a shop.
Burrs on the outside of the steerer is a good guess.
Burrs on the outside of the steerer is a good guess.
#6
OK, I'll remove the cap and try to get rid of burrs. It comes off fairly easily, but won't go down (by hand) further than flush with the top of the steer tube.
#7
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Chris King headset parts fit snugly all over.
If it was my bike I'd take some emery cloth to the whole outside of your steerer tube.
If it was my bike I'd take some emery cloth to the whole outside of your steerer tube.
#8
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From: Bend, OR
Bikes: American Breezer mtb, American Classic ti road bike w/SRAM Force and XO, Crotch Rocket, SOMA 69'er w/XX-1 mtb, Handsome Shop Bike w/700c wheels. Bianchi SS 'cross
File or grind the outer edge of the top of the steerer tube a bit, and put some lube on the "o" ring inside the cap. Then carefully work the cap down the steerer tube - don't use a punch (Jeez, it's a quality component). I have sometimes with King headsets used a crown race setting tool and Park crown race installation tool to work the cap down. The issue is the King headset is built to greater tolerances than most steerer tubes. I just installed one on a Soma Smoothie Stainless Steel frame with a Ritchey fork and had to perform quite a bit of prep work on both the headtube and fork steerer to obtain a proper result.
PS: The star nut looks crooked in the steerer tube which will cause other problems with the headset/top cap/adjustment.
PS: The star nut looks crooked in the steerer tube which will cause other problems with the headset/top cap/adjustment.
#10
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https://chrisking.com/headsets/hds_gnut
this is grip nut, its for threaded forks, I have one on My Bike Friday..
you have a threadless fork , that is the appropriate piece for those.
https://chrisking.com/headsets/hds_nts
Griplock cap? IDK. see none mentioned here? https://chrisking.com/tech/tech_headsets
this is grip nut, its for threaded forks, I have one on My Bike Friday..
you have a threadless fork , that is the appropriate piece for those.
https://chrisking.com/headsets/hds_nts
Griplock cap? IDK. see none mentioned here? https://chrisking.com/tech/tech_headsets
#11
Guys, thanks for all of the replies. I tried to smooth out the top of the steerer, then used some steel wool to remove some of the rust. I got it past the top by hand but then it stopped again after an inch or so, most likely due to the remaining rust and the tight tolerances mentioned above.
So, I used a hammer to lightly bang down each side and it worked like a charm. Was it an elegant solution? Not at all. But it worked without breaking/bending the cap. I just hope I never need to get that thing off again!
p.s. I didn't see the lube recommendation until after I used the hammer.....next time.
So, I used a hammer to lightly bang down each side and it worked like a charm. Was it an elegant solution? Not at all. But it worked without breaking/bending the cap. I just hope I never need to get that thing off again!
p.s. I didn't see the lube recommendation until after I used the hammer.....next time.
#12
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
To remove that race, just remove the top cap, stem and spacers and the tap on top of the steerer tube with a rubber mallet. That will drive the steerer down so you can get under the race and pull it up.
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