Why is my bike leaning over?
06-12-13, 01:09 PM
#26
Mechanic/Tourist
You're talking about two different things. The bearing preload is the amount of tension on the bearing, torque is the amount of tension on the locknut/pinch bolts. The first is generally just a hair past no play, the latter can vary but generally is quite tight on a locknut as large as the headset, or on the pinch bolts in the case of threadless.
06-12-13, 01:23 PM
#27
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You're talking about two different things. The bearing preload is the amount of tension on the bearing, torque is the amount of tension on the locknut/pinch bolts. The first is generally just a hair past no play, the latter can vary but generally is quite tight on a locknut as large as the headset, or on the pinch bolts in the case of threadless.
the amount you tighten the top adjustment bolt
when the pinch bolts are loose
can also be expressed as a torque
although the correct torque is very very small on most headsets
06-12-13, 01:40 PM
#28
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You're talking about two different things. The bearing preload is the amount of tension on the bearing, torque is the amount of tension on the locknut/pinch bolts. The first is generally just a hair past no play, the latter can vary but generally is quite tight on a locknut as large as the headset, or on the pinch bolts in the case of threadless.
Last edited by RubeRad; 06-12-13 at 01:46 PM.
06-12-13, 02:41 PM
#31
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Perhaps yours spine has become bent - or hips. 
If it's bike, it's easier to solve - frame, fork, saddle, or wheels.
If it's bike, it's easier to solve - frame, fork, saddle, or wheels.
06-12-13, 03:08 PM
#32
You Know!? For Kids!
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06-12-13, 06:11 PM
#33
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I hope you've solved the problem, but from the description of what was happening, I'd be surprised. A tight or binding headset can definitley make bike handling squirrely, but you describe a consistent pull to the same side.
The consistency points not to a handling problem, but an alignment or weight distribution problem. These can be complex with a number of errors combining in ways that reinforce or cancel each other.
If you do conclude that it may be alignment, do not make any changes (except for correcting dish on a wheel) before you know ALL the problems. The carpenter's rule "measure twice, cut once" really applies to frame alignment issues. Measure everything, and get a good sense of what's really happening, then formulate your plan of action.
The consistency points not to a handling problem, but an alignment or weight distribution problem. These can be complex with a number of errors combining in ways that reinforce or cancel each other.
If you do conclude that it may be alignment, do not make any changes (except for correcting dish on a wheel) before you know ALL the problems. The carpenter's rule "measure twice, cut once" really applies to frame alignment issues. Measure everything, and get a good sense of what's really happening, then formulate your plan of action.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
06-12-13, 06:31 PM
#34
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I hope you've solved the problem, but from the description of what was happening, I'd be surprised. A tight or binding headset can definitley make bike handling squirrely, but you describe a consistent pull to the same side.
The consistency points not to a handling problem, but an alignment or weight distribution problem. These can be complex with a number of errors combining in ways that reinforce or cancel each other.
If you do conclude that it may be alignment, do not make any changes (except for correcting dish on a wheel) before you know ALL the problems. The carpenter's rule "measure twice, cut once" really applies to frame alignment issues. Measure everything, and get a good sense of what's really happening, then formulate your plan of action.
The consistency points not to a handling problem, but an alignment or weight distribution problem. These can be complex with a number of errors combining in ways that reinforce or cancel each other.
If you do conclude that it may be alignment, do not make any changes (except for correcting dish on a wheel) before you know ALL the problems. The carpenter's rule "measure twice, cut once" really applies to frame alignment issues. Measure everything, and get a good sense of what's really happening, then formulate your plan of action.
Before I loosened it, it turned fairly freely, but there was a little 'detent' (brinelling? can that happen in threadless?) detectable when lifting the front wheel off the ground -- if the bike was close to upright the wheel would not flop. And turning the handlebars in the hand with the wheel off the ground I could definitely feel a notch of resistance.
And even though my memory is not what it used to be, the recent occurrence of the problem fits well with my recent lowering of my stem and certain overtightening of the headset.
BTW, in honor of my 1000th post, I went and searched my history, and guess who was the first responder to my first ever post? That would be YOU. I think it's a sign. When they make a movie about us, I hope I'm played by Tom Hanks and you by Meg Ryan, rather than the other way 'round!
06-12-13, 10:38 PM
#36
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I'll take that money! I'll pm you my address so you can mail me a check.
Ride home was fine, everything all better, overtightened headset was definitely the culprit.
The headset was from a previous bike, so it's pretty old; it was probably "indexed" in the forward position, and when I pressed it onto this bike, by chance that "index" was slightly towards the left. Not until I recently lowered my stem and overtightened did it manifest, and now that I backed it off, it seems fine.
Ride home was fine, everything all better, overtightened headset was definitely the culprit.
The headset was from a previous bike, so it's pretty old; it was probably "indexed" in the forward position, and when I pressed it onto this bike, by chance that "index" was slightly towards the left. Not until I recently lowered my stem and overtightened did it manifest, and now that I backed it off, it seems fine.
06-13-13, 07:58 AM
#37
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Thank you so much sir. You are a gentleman and a scholar and an ars. Or at least one of those.
06-13-13, 08:12 AM
#38
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It is possible to damage the races from over tightening. I would remove the headset and check for damage. Tange makes a very affordable headset.
06-13-13, 08:33 AM
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06-13-13, 08:57 AM
#40
You Know!? For Kids!
Now that the problem is fixed, I am going to suggest that the bike was leaning over due to being tired and shagged out following a prolonged squawk.
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06-13-13, 09:09 AM
#41
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Meanwhile, everything seems smooth. What is the risk of just waiting until it fails (if ever)? What would failure look like? This is an Aheadset Slimstak, from seeing it off before (paid LBS $10 to remove from donor bike) it is what I guess would be called an angular contact bearing?
06-13-13, 09:15 AM
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06-13-13, 09:47 AM
#43
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06-13-13, 10:09 AM
#44
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