New Threaded Headset
#1
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Oregon
New Threaded Headset
A couple days ago I posted a question about a headset with a missing locknut, and I got a new locknut for it. I got everything installed, and even if I tighten everything so tight that I can hardly steer, there's a bunch of play in the fork. Looking at it, I'm pretty sure someone mixed and matched the upper race and the adjustable race from different headsets. So I'm planning to get a new headset.
I know that I need a standard 1", but my main question is about stack height. I have about 32mm of fork thread showing, and the headset I'd most like to get (Velo Orange Grand Cru, $30) says it has a stack height of 42mm. Is that a deal breaker? My next choice is probably a Tange Levin ($20), with a 33mm stack height.
I'm open to other suggestions, too. I'd like to keep it on the cheap side, though.
I know that I need a standard 1", but my main question is about stack height. I have about 32mm of fork thread showing, and the headset I'd most like to get (Velo Orange Grand Cru, $30) says it has a stack height of 42mm. Is that a deal breaker? My next choice is probably a Tange Levin ($20), with a 33mm stack height.
I'm open to other suggestions, too. I'd like to keep it on the cheap side, though.
#2
I have a Tange Levin on my recumbent. It's been perfect since I installed it several years ago, including several Pacific Northwest winters and summer touring. You can't go wrong.
I'm concerned that the headset you have didn't work. What kind of headset is it? Brand, bearing type? Did the frame parts and fork crown race press on properly?
I'm concerned that the headset you have didn't work. What kind of headset is it? Brand, bearing type? Did the frame parts and fork crown race press on properly?
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Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
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#4
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Oregon
I can't identify the headset because the part that typically has the label, the locknut, was missing. The upper headtube race and the adjustable race definitely don't match. They aren't even the same color, and they don't seat together properly. When I hold down the front brake and push the bike forward, I can see those 2 parts slide against each other as the fork moves. As far as the bearings go, it's anyone's guess what headset they're from.
I probably should have been paying more attention before I got the replacement locknut. It is pretty obvious the headset pieces already on it were hodgepodged together.
It looks like the whole lower assembly below the head tube is intact, but I'll probably just replace it all when I get a new headset.
If the Tange Levin sounds like a reasonable choice, I'll probably go with that.
I probably should have been paying more attention before I got the replacement locknut. It is pretty obvious the headset pieces already on it were hodgepodged together.
It looks like the whole lower assembly below the head tube is intact, but I'll probably just replace it all when I get a new headset.
If the Tange Levin sounds like a reasonable choice, I'll probably go with that.
#5
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Belgium
When measuring the stack height you need to consider the space taken up by the race on the bottom of the headtube as well as the space taken up by the upper race.
To get a better idea of how much stack height your current frame/fork will permit, remove the cups from the frame and insert the fork and then measure the amount of steerer-tube above the headtube.
When installing your new headset you should remove the fork crown race as well and replace with the one that comes with the new headset.
-j
To get a better idea of how much stack height your current frame/fork will permit, remove the cups from the frame and insert the fork and then measure the amount of steerer-tube above the headtube.
When installing your new headset you should remove the fork crown race as well and replace with the one that comes with the new headset.
-j
#6
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From: Oregon
*Head smack*
Of course. It somehow didn't occur to me that the stack height included the bottom as well. That puts me at around 44mm.
Any opinions on whether it's worthwhile to spend the extra $10 on the Velo Orange over the Tange Levin? The Tange is a bit short now for my stack, but I do have some spacers.
Of course. It somehow didn't occur to me that the stack height included the bottom as well. That puts me at around 44mm.
Any opinions on whether it's worthwhile to spend the extra $10 on the Velo Orange over the Tange Levin? The Tange is a bit short now for my stack, but I do have some spacers.
#8
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
#9
I think he's looking at the Grand Cru headset from velo orange which does have cartridge bearings.
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Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Belgium
I was generally partial to needle bearing headsets as in my experience ball type bearings had more of tendency to pit/index over time.
I can't remember the manufacturer but in the early-mid 90s I had a great needle/roller bearing headset that I installed that had conical shims that sat between (above and below) the needle bearing and the race surfaces. I remember thinking this was a neat design as one would only need to replace the shims and the bearings instead of the actual cups should damage occur, this headset worked great until the bike was stollen upon which I hoped the damn thing exploded on the mfker.
My current bike has a threadless fork and uses a Campy hidenset...so I have no recent experience with 1" headsets but I have heard good things about Velo Orange products. If you are going to do the install yourself and have any problems with the product or any questions you may have an easier time getting in touch with Velo Orange than Tange...but YMMV.
-j
I can't remember the manufacturer but in the early-mid 90s I had a great needle/roller bearing headset that I installed that had conical shims that sat between (above and below) the needle bearing and the race surfaces. I remember thinking this was a neat design as one would only need to replace the shims and the bearings instead of the actual cups should damage occur, this headset worked great until the bike was stollen upon which I hoped the damn thing exploded on the mfker.
My current bike has a threadless fork and uses a Campy hidenset...so I have no recent experience with 1" headsets but I have heard good things about Velo Orange products. If you are going to do the install yourself and have any problems with the product or any questions you may have an easier time getting in touch with Velo Orange than Tange...but YMMV.
-j
Last edited by Zef; 06-13-13 at 07:21 AM.
#12
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
I was generally partial to needle bearing headsets as in my experience ball type bearings had more of tendency to pit/index over time.
I can't remember the manufacturer but in the early-mid 90s I had a great needle/roller bearing headset that I installed that had conical shims that sat between (above and below) the needle bearing and the race surfaces. I remember thinking this was a neat design as one would only need to replace the shims and the bearings instead of the actual cups should damage occur, this headset worked great until the bike was stollen upon which I hoped the damn thing exploded on the mfker.
My current bike has a threadless fork and uses a Campy hidenset...so I have no recent experience with 1" headsets but I have heard good things about Velo Orange products. If you are going to do the install yourself and have any problems with the product or any questions you may have an easier time getting in touch with Velo Orange than Tange...but YMMV.
-j
I can't remember the manufacturer but in the early-mid 90s I had a great needle/roller bearing headset that I installed that had conical shims that sat between (above and below) the needle bearing and the race surfaces. I remember thinking this was a neat design as one would only need to replace the shims and the bearings instead of the actual cups should damage occur, this headset worked great until the bike was stollen upon which I hoped the damn thing exploded on the mfker.
My current bike has a threadless fork and uses a Campy hidenset...so I have no recent experience with 1" headsets but I have heard good things about Velo Orange products. If you are going to do the install yourself and have any problems with the product or any questions you may have an easier time getting in touch with Velo Orange than Tange...but YMMV.
-j

Alas, it's been out of production for many years now.
But Tange makes a roller bearing headset (lower race, anyway) that is still available:

Tange is a reputable company with a long history; I'd have no problem using any of their headsets.
#13
It seems like velo orange and miche both sell headsets with roller bearings on both sides if memory serves.
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Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#14
Si Senior
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Naperville, Illinois
Bikes: Too Numerous (not)
Miche (primato??) has a higher stack height also. On an old Trek850 restore I ran into problems with the Miche being too tall. I switched to the Chris King Gripnut and it fit OK. Way expensive but a very nice headset.
#15
#17
The previous headset on my recumbent was a Shimano Ultegra cartridge bearing unit. It was fine, but the bearing cartridges developed play between them and the frame cups. This caused a squeak on every bump.
The Tange Levin is heavier, but it's a all steel. I expect this one to outlast the bike.
The Tange Levin is heavier, but it's a all steel. I expect this one to outlast the bike.
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#18
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 31
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From: Oregon
Thanks for the help, everyone. The bike shop had a Tange Levin, and the price was right, so I put it on tonight. The steering is smooth as can be, and there's no wiggling anywhere.
When I took the old one off, I confirmed that someone had created a franken-headset. On the upper assembly, the pieces simply weren't made to go together. I'm glad to be rid of it and have the right one on.
When I took the old one off, I confirmed that someone had created a franken-headset. On the upper assembly, the pieces simply weren't made to go together. I'm glad to be rid of it and have the right one on.
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