bb lockring stuck?
06-23-13 | 06:48 PM
#1
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 339
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From: Atlanta, GA
Bikes: Dave Kirk Custom, Clockwork Bikes Custom, Batavus Course Specialized HardRock x2 Trek 700 MultiTrack 1991 Trek 950 SingleTrack. Miyata Three Ten
bb lockring stuck?
Hi
I have a 90's model hardrock and am trying to remove the adjustable side lockring by turning it counter clockwise. Thus far, and after two applications of pb blaster, I have already deformed one of the notches and it still has not budged. I've done this on several other Hardrock bikes and have never had this much trouble. Any chance it's reverse threaded? How would I know besides trying it clockwise? Thanks,
Jon
I have a 90's model hardrock and am trying to remove the adjustable side lockring by turning it counter clockwise. Thus far, and after two applications of pb blaster, I have already deformed one of the notches and it still has not budged. I've done this on several other Hardrock bikes and have never had this much trouble. Any chance it's reverse threaded? How would I know besides trying it clockwise? Thanks,
Jon
06-23-13 | 07:53 PM
#2
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
No chance it's reverse threaded, probably simply rusted to the cup.
Tight lockrings often respond better to steady torque than to the hammer and chisel. The ideal tool for the job is a Var 16 lock ring plier, though the flat lockring wrenches work OK. The better lockring wrenches have 2-4 notches and are less prone to falling of sideways than the more common single hook spanner.
If you don't have a lockring tool, you can use the hammer and chisel, but grind the chisel so it fits into a notch and provide a decent purchase into the inside corner, or face, without either cutting the ring or distorting the outer edge. Before beating up the ring any more run some penetrating oil both between it and the BB shell, and between it and the adj. cup.
Tight lockrings often respond better to steady torque than to the hammer and chisel. The ideal tool for the job is a Var 16 lock ring plier, though the flat lockring wrenches work OK. The better lockring wrenches have 2-4 notches and are less prone to falling of sideways than the more common single hook spanner.
If you don't have a lockring tool, you can use the hammer and chisel, but grind the chisel so it fits into a notch and provide a decent purchase into the inside corner, or face, without either cutting the ring or distorting the outer edge. Before beating up the ring any more run some penetrating oil both between it and the BB shell, and between it and the adj. cup.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
06-24-13 | 10:33 PM
#5
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 339
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From: Atlanta, GA
Bikes: Dave Kirk Custom, Clockwork Bikes Custom, Batavus Course Specialized HardRock x2 Trek 700 MultiTrack 1991 Trek 950 SingleTrack. Miyata Three Ten
Turns out, I used a pipe wrench to get it off. I have a single tooth spanner wrench, however the lockring has 4 notches (I suppose in case you mangle one or two of them). And as was posted, it was rusty. The funny thing though, the fixed side came off without any problems whatsoever...
