Replacement spoke length
#2
If it's a factory PowerTap wheel, I'd call them and ask.
It's also pretty straightforward to take another spoke out and measure it. Since you're going to be working on it anyway to put the new spoke in, this should be too much of an issue. If you're careful and have both pieces, you can piece the broken spoke together and measure it. If it's a J bend spoke, the length is measured from the inside of the bend (surface of the spoke adjacent to the head) to the very end.
The last option is to calculate it if you have or know the relevant parameters to plug into a spoke length calculator.
It's also pretty straightforward to take another spoke out and measure it. Since you're going to be working on it anyway to put the new spoke in, this should be too much of an issue. If you're careful and have both pieces, you can piece the broken spoke together and measure it. If it's a J bend spoke, the length is measured from the inside of the bend (surface of the spoke adjacent to the head) to the very end.
The last option is to calculate it if you have or know the relevant parameters to plug into a spoke length calculator.
Last edited by Looigi; 12-20-13 at 09:50 AM.
#3
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To measure a spoke in place you take a ruler and place it against a similar but good spoke. You measure from the rim's inside surface to the hub's outer surface. THEN you determine the amount of the spoke that is hidden in the rim and overlap/is inside the hub shell. At the rim end this can be a few MM's to many depending on the rim/spoke/nipple design. At the hub end this can be the same, a few MM's to the head's inside to many MM's to the end of a threaded into hub design.
Because the amounts that you can't see are hard to determine the best method is to remove a good spoke and do a direct measurement. Some bike brands have this spec listed in their technical sheet (if the wheel was an original spec), some wheel builders keep the spoke lengths on record. Andy.
Because the amounts that you can't see are hard to determine the best method is to remove a good spoke and do a direct measurement. Some bike brands have this spec listed in their technical sheet (if the wheel was an original spec), some wheel builders keep the spoke lengths on record. Andy.
#4
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Modifying AS's method to elimiante guess work about the rim's thickness at the nipple.
Measure any spoke from the inside of the elbow, (or the center of the head, less 1mm) out to the outer edge of the rim. Then remove the tire, lay something across the rim and measure down to the top of any nipple. Subtract to find the length to the top of the nipple, and subtract 1mm because you want spokes ending short of there.
Measure any spoke from the inside of the elbow, (or the center of the head, less 1mm) out to the outer edge of the rim. Then remove the tire, lay something across the rim and measure down to the top of any nipple. Subtract to find the length to the top of the nipple, and subtract 1mm because you want spokes ending short of there.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
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Since spokes stretch (lengthen) when properly tensioned, will FB's and AS's method yield an accurate measurement? I'm not sure how much of a difference being under tension will create, but it might be something to think about.
#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The only difference between Andrew's method, and mine is the elimination of the need to guess the rims thickness. Either is fine.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
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Bikes: 1989 Simoncini, Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro, No-name aluminum 29er hardtail, Univega Winter Beater
Got it. Subtracting the 1mm is also nice because it makes lacing the new spoke through all the existing spokes and rim and touch easier.
#9
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
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