SRAM GXP crank stuck - help!
#1
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From: Thames Valley UK
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SRAM GXP crank stuck - help!
My SRAM Apex GXP 2012 crank is stuck! I have removed the 8mm bolt and washer. But the crank just won't budge, (like it should in all the videos I've seen). I tried putting the 8mm bolt halfway back so it protruded above the NDS crank, then tapping it while supporting the NDS crank, but all that happened is that the thread on the alloy bolt started to strip!
Any ideas on how to get the 2 parts unstuck?
Any ideas on how to get the 2 parts unstuck?
#2
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Anyone, does Apex require a crank puller or not-included self-extracting bolt? On cranks without a self extracting bolt, you can't just pull the NDS side off the bottom bracket. Same on the DS if the crank doesn't have a permanently attached spindle but is likewise bolted on. You have to have some mechanical advantage help from the right tool.
#3
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From: Bend, OR
Bikes: American Breezer mtb, American Classic ti road bike w/SRAM Force and XO, Crotch Rocket, SOMA 69'er w/XX-1 mtb, Handsome Shop Bike w/700c wheels. Bianchi SS 'cross
On the non-drive side crankarm there should be a cap over the 8mm bolt (It's a 10mm hex) so when you loosen the 8mm bolt it presses against the cap and pulls the crankarm off the bottom bracket. Given that you could remove the 8mm bolt, it seems the outer cap is missing. Your lbs should have a replacement or have a cap they can use to pull the crankarm for you - in my shop we have all such caps for their respective crankarms hanging on a hook along side other pullers. Loosing these caps is a fairly common occurrence.
#4
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
On the non-drive side crankarm there should be a cap over the 8mm bolt (It's a 10mm hex) so when you loosen the 8mm bolt it presses against the cap and pulls the crankarm off the bottom bracket. Given that you could remove the 8mm bolt, it seems the outer cap is missing. Your lbs should have a replacement or have a cap they can use to pull the crankarm for you - in my shop we have all such caps for their respective crankarms hanging on a hook along side other pullers. Loosing these caps is a fairly common occurrence.
#5
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bend, OR
Bikes: American Breezer mtb, American Classic ti road bike w/SRAM Force and XO, Crotch Rocket, SOMA 69'er w/XX-1 mtb, Handsome Shop Bike w/700c wheels. Bianchi SS 'cross
Yep - you insert the 8mm bolt/washer into the crankarm and then screw the cap on with, in this case, a 10mm hex wrench. This is generally the way self extracting crankarms work, so why the surprise (And exclamation mark?) / senior member indeed!
#6
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From: Houston, TX
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Yes, senior member indeed. Smile when you say that!
#7
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Thanks - that explains everything. The cap is missing (from new,). I wanted to replace the Apex with SRAM Force, so I bought a Force crankset, only to find out the cap is a larger size than APEX and doesn't fit!!
I now need to find an Apex cap somewhere, but many thanks for the advice - I now know the solution.
I now need to find an Apex cap somewhere, but many thanks for the advice - I now know the solution.
#8
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Thanks for the input - turns out the cap was missing from the Apex crank, so the 8mm just screwed out. BTW the cap for the SRAM Force is a 16mm hex - couldn't find one anywhere, so filed down the top of a 17mm bolt to fit - it worked, but then found out it is a larger size than the Apex cap! These things are sent to try us...
#9
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From: River City, OR
It is NOT the way most self-extracting cranks work. The ones from FSA are not easily disassembled with a separate cap. All of mine have only one Allen head, 8 mm. No cap, no 10 mm opening. The 8 mm bolt is constrained, but not by a removable cap, or at least not one removable by an Allen wrench. At one time some had a "cap" that screwed in with a pin spanner.
Yes, senior member indeed. Smile when you say that!
Yes, senior member indeed. Smile when you say that!
#10
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Joined: May 2014
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I have a Rival Crankset...similar problem....missing 'cap' on the NDS. How on earth do i remove the crankarm without the 16mm cap in place? Anyone have a the proper name for this thing? I can't seem to find one to purchase online anywhere.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#11
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
What is your problem? Just sayin' that many self-extracting crank bolts have only one hex opening. The outer ring threads in using a pin spanner. In many the two threaded members are permanently joined together. You use the pin spanner to install or remove the entire self-extracting bolt while leaving the crank arm attached. You use the allen wrench to actuate the self extracting feature and remove the crank arm. What is so hard to understand?
#12
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I registered here to post my solution to my cross bike's seized/stuck/stripped GXP crank arms to help anyone else who finds this post via Google.
This trick should work with any threaded external bearing system, not just GXP. My GXP arm's internal screw was stripped out by it's former owner and I didn't want to buy some sort of automotive puller. So...
1.) Remove all bolts/screws from the GXP non-drive side arm so the only thing holding it on is whatever is seizing it. Apply a penetrating oil if you want.
2.) Carefully wiggle a bottom bracket removal tool around the left crank arm and into position on the BB. (Your crank arm's design may not allow this, however...)
3.) Unscrew the non-drive BB and with it will slide off the crank arm as it unscrews. I had to use some creative leverage to get it started, since the BB was badly stuck, but that is a much simpler matter.
Note: You may need to back off/on the BB and adjust the crank arm to get the best tool position as you work. (Also, be sure you are turning the right direction!)
There you have it! I haven't felt so satisfied with myself in months as the moment the crank arm slid off. Hope this helps someone else searching for a solution.
This trick should work with any threaded external bearing system, not just GXP. My GXP arm's internal screw was stripped out by it's former owner and I didn't want to buy some sort of automotive puller. So...
1.) Remove all bolts/screws from the GXP non-drive side arm so the only thing holding it on is whatever is seizing it. Apply a penetrating oil if you want.
2.) Carefully wiggle a bottom bracket removal tool around the left crank arm and into position on the BB. (Your crank arm's design may not allow this, however...)
3.) Unscrew the non-drive BB and with it will slide off the crank arm as it unscrews. I had to use some creative leverage to get it started, since the BB was badly stuck, but that is a much simpler matter.
Note: You may need to back off/on the BB and adjust the crank arm to get the best tool position as you work. (Also, be sure you are turning the right direction!)
There you have it! I haven't felt so satisfied with myself in months as the moment the crank arm slid off. Hope this helps someone else searching for a solution.
#13
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 1
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I registered here to post my solution to my cross bike's seized/stuck/stripped GXP crank arms to help anyone else who finds this post via Google.
This trick should work with any threaded external bearing system, not just GXP. My GXP arm's internal screw was stripped out by it's former owner and I didn't want to buy some sort of automotive puller. So...
1.) Remove all bolts/screws from the GXP non-drive side arm so the only thing holding it on is whatever is seizing it. Apply a penetrating oil if you want.
2.) Carefully wiggle a bottom bracket removal tool around the left crank arm and into position on the BB. (Your crank arm's design may not allow this, however...)
3.) Unscrew the non-drive BB and with it will slide off the crank arm as it unscrews. I had to use some creative leverage to get it started, since the BB was badly stuck, but that is a much simpler matter.
Note: You may need to back off/on the BB and adjust the crank arm to get the best tool position as you work. (Also, be sure you are turning the right direction!)
There you have it! I haven't felt so satisfied with myself in months as the moment the crank arm slid off. Hope this helps someone else searching for a solution.
This trick should work with any threaded external bearing system, not just GXP. My GXP arm's internal screw was stripped out by it's former owner and I didn't want to buy some sort of automotive puller. So...
1.) Remove all bolts/screws from the GXP non-drive side arm so the only thing holding it on is whatever is seizing it. Apply a penetrating oil if you want.
2.) Carefully wiggle a bottom bracket removal tool around the left crank arm and into position on the BB. (Your crank arm's design may not allow this, however...)
3.) Unscrew the non-drive BB and with it will slide off the crank arm as it unscrews. I had to use some creative leverage to get it started, since the BB was badly stuck, but that is a much simpler matter.
Note: You may need to back off/on the BB and adjust the crank arm to get the best tool position as you work. (Also, be sure you are turning the right direction!)
There you have it! I haven't felt so satisfied with myself in months as the moment the crank arm slid off. Hope this helps someone else searching for a solution.





