Problem when adjusting hub cones
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2014
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Problem when adjusting hub cones
Hi!
This weekend, I worked on one of my bike and wanted to overhaule the hubs.
After I replaced the bearings, packed with grease, I started adjusting the cones. I found the good adjustment (as loose as possible without any play right ?) and then I proceeded on tightening the locknut.
To my great surprise, it seems that the axle moved when doing so, resulting on my adjustment to get loosened!!
I don't understand why that is happening. Do I need a vise to put my axle in so that it doesn't move ?
I hope my explanation was clear enough
This weekend, I worked on one of my bike and wanted to overhaule the hubs.
After I replaced the bearings, packed with grease, I started adjusting the cones. I found the good adjustment (as loose as possible without any play right ?) and then I proceeded on tightening the locknut.
To my great surprise, it seems that the axle moved when doing so, resulting on my adjustment to get loosened!!
I don't understand why that is happening. Do I need a vise to put my axle in so that it doesn't move ?
I hope my explanation was clear enough
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Bay Area, Calif.
There are two approaches. Some axles have a groove down their length and are designed so a washer with a small protrusion fits between the cone and the locknut. The protrusion sits in the groove and keeps the washer from turning and therefore the cone won't turn as you tighten the locknut (but it will still be pushed in a little so needs to be just a touch on the loose side before tightening the locknut).
Without the groove and corresponding washer you need to use a thin wrench (cone wrench) to hold the cone in position as you tighten the locknut against it.
Without the groove and corresponding washer you need to use a thin wrench (cone wrench) to hold the cone in position as you tighten the locknut against it.
#5
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There are two approaches. Some axles have a groove down their length and are designed so a washer with a small protrusion fits between the cone and the locknut. The protrusion sits in the groove and keeps the washer from turning and therefore the cone won't turn as you tighten the locknut (but it will still be pushed in a little so needs to be just a touch on the loose side before tightening the locknut).
Without the groove and corresponding washer you need to use a thin wrench (cone wrench) to hold the cone in position as you tighten the locknut against it.
Without the groove and corresponding washer you need to use a thin wrench (cone wrench) to hold the cone in position as you tighten the locknut against it.
#6
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
My first adjustment is never perfect. It takes a couple tries to become familiar with how much the locknut tightening process effects the adjustment. It's usually a minor amount, but it takes a little fiddling (experience) to get it just perfect.
#7
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I found that if I overtight the cone, I can find somewhat a good adjustment since the cone will become loose as I tighten the locknut (which makes the axle moves and therefore loosen the cone). But it is all random and when it comes to hubs, I don't like randomness
#9
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
Well, my problem is that for me, it takes forever since the axle rotates! Even if I find the perfect cone adjustment, everything gets loose because of the axle and I cannot seem to find the solution.
I found that if I overtight the cone, I can find somewhat a good adjustment since the cone will become loose as I tighten the locknut (which makes the axle moves and therefore loosen the cone). But it is all random and when it comes to hubs, I don't like randomness
I found that if I overtight the cone, I can find somewhat a good adjustment since the cone will become loose as I tighten the locknut (which makes the axle moves and therefore loosen the cone). But it is all random and when it comes to hubs, I don't like randomness
Does the locknut spin feely on the axle, or are the threads a little tweaked, causing it to drag and bite the axle?
#10
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Hmmmmm. Are you adjusting the bearing by hand? Thats what I do. Then turn the lock nut by hand until it meets the cone. Once they meet, the axle shoudn't turn as you move both wrenchs in opposite directions to one another.
Does the locknut spin feely on the axle, or are the threads a little tweaked, causing it to drag and bite the axle?
Does the locknut spin feely on the axle, or are the threads a little tweaked, causing it to drag and bite the axle?
Does the locknut spin feely on the axle, or are the threads a little tweaked, causing it to drag and bite the axle? Hmm... good call! The locknut might have bad threads to the axle might have bad threads. I will look into that!
#11
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From: texas
Bikes: '86 Raleigh marathon, '09 Fuji newest 4.0, 2001 Cannondale R600
here's what I do, tighten one side cone and lock nut with correct axle protrusion, hand tighten other cone to feels right, set a wrench on first cone and lock nut to hold it and axle from turning, tighten second lock nut too cone while holding cone with wrench, check for play/smooth repeat until feels right
Just remembered many sure smooth side of lock nut is toward cone IMHO
Just remembered many sure smooth side of lock nut is toward cone IMHO
Last edited by 1986raleigh; 07-07-14 at 05:29 PM.
#13
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Joined: Aug 2009
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Well, my problem is that for me, it takes forever since the axle rotates! Even if I find the perfect cone adjustment, everything gets loose because of the axle and I cannot seem to find the solution.
I found that if I overtight the cone, I can find somewhat a good adjustment since the cone will become loose as I tighten the locknut (which makes the axle moves and therefore loosen the cone). But it is all random and when it comes to hubs, I don't like randomness
I found that if I overtight the cone, I can find somewhat a good adjustment since the cone will become loose as I tighten the locknut (which makes the axle moves and therefore loosen the cone). But it is all random and when it comes to hubs, I don't like randomness

Tighten one side, adjust opposite cone until there is just a tiny bit of play and lock down nut, check for play, and tighten down both locknuts until there is no play. If you are really anal, check the second locknut against that cone. The end, should take about 2 minutes.
#14
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Northern Neck of Virginia
Bikes: Some Raleighs,some Schwinns and an Azor
+1 on the axle vise, or something to hold the axle. I tighten the cone and lock nut on one side and then clamp that end of the axle in a small portable vise. Now the axle won't rotate when I adjust and tighten the other side. Reduces the profanity index in my shop considerably.
#15
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#16
Zip tie Karen
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
^ +10. Bench Vise is essential for this. Turn the wheel horizontal and clamp the lower (non working) outer locknut in the jaws. Then, work from the top. You'll have access to both slotted cones (above and below), and to the top locknut. Adjust the cones to a loose position with just a "smidgen" of play, and then tighten down the top locknut while holding the top cone in place relative to the vise. The tightening will take out the play.
Trial and error until it's perfectly done. Good luck. PG
Trial and error until it's perfectly done. Good luck. PG
#18
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Joined: May 2006
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From: NY, NY
If you are using quick release skewers, let me put in a plug for the Stein axle vise (scroll down; third tool up from the bottom). Designed for adjusting the hub while under pressure, so there's a lot less trial and error in getting the adjustment right.
#19
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Thanks everybody for all your insights, I appreciate everybody's advice and help.
Yesterday, I repacked my front/rear hubs but as I feared, I could NOT get the adjustment done due to the axle moving. After 30 mins, I gave up
I don't have a vise and am not able to get one (I am basically working in one of my room and I have nothing to set a vise)In this article, I found that this guy actually adjusts his cones with the wheel mounted on the bike. Do you think that this method could help holding the axle in place ?
(see bottom of the article www.cyclingnews.com news and analysis)
Yesterday, I repacked my front/rear hubs but as I feared, I could NOT get the adjustment done due to the axle moving. After 30 mins, I gave up
I don't have a vise and am not able to get one (I am basically working in one of my room and I have nothing to set a vise)In this article, I found that this guy actually adjusts his cones with the wheel mounted on the bike. Do you think that this method could help holding the axle in place ?
(see bottom of the article www.cyclingnews.com news and analysis)
#20
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,646
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From: Salinas , Ca.
Bikes: Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
Thanks everybody for all your insights, I appreciate everybody's advice and help.
Yesterday, I repacked my front/rear hubs but as I feared, I could NOT get the adjustment done due to the axle moving. After 30 mins, I gave up
I don't have a vise and am not able to get one (I am basically working in one of my room and I have nothing to set a vise)In this article, I found that this guy actually adjusts his cones with the wheel mounted on the bike. Do you think that this method could help holding the axle in place ?
(see bottom of the article www.cyclingnews.com news and analysis)
Yesterday, I repacked my front/rear hubs but as I feared, I could NOT get the adjustment done due to the axle moving. After 30 mins, I gave up
I don't have a vise and am not able to get one (I am basically working in one of my room and I have nothing to set a vise)In this article, I found that this guy actually adjusts his cones with the wheel mounted on the bike. Do you think that this method could help holding the axle in place ?
(see bottom of the article www.cyclingnews.com news and analysis)
#22
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 196
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From: NY, NY
Re: vises, I live in an apartment and use a vacuum vise that I picked up years ago at Home Depot (I forget the brand, but it looks something like this one). Works surprisingly well on my kitchen counter top. I've used it to cut down forks, adjust hubs, drill out brake holes, .... Just sayin'.
#23
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Joined: May 2009
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I adjust the cone and locknut on one end of the axle in order to have the right amount of axle protrusion, then when I put the axle in the hub and adjust the cone on the other side, I place the first cone and locknut in a vise and it doesn't let the axle turn.
Last edited by garage sale GT; 07-11-14 at 08:41 AM.





