I bought a Specialized AWOL Comp frameset a few months ago and am getting close to having the bike up and running.

The frame has rocker style dropouts, and the frame splits where the right side dropout installs, so I built the bike up with a Gates belt drive CDX system.

I applied Frame Saver last week, and as I was re installing the dropouts I noticed that the right side dropout is difficult to install. The bolt holes don't line up perfectly, and it takes significant force to get things back together. It is also difficult to "rock" the dropout as is meant to happen when setting its position. The bolt scrapes paint off the dropout when I do this, unlike the left dropout which functions perfectly. When I put the rear wheel in the frame, it isn't pointing straight ahead, rather off to the left such that the middle of the rear tire at its most forward point is left of the center of the seat post by a centimeter or so. Each dropout has hash marks painted on to allow for both sides to be set to the same position, but setting each dropout on the same hash mark as I did results in the wheel pointing to the left.

I am able to straighten the wheel out by moving either the left dropout forward or the right dropout back. My first thought was that the hash marks just aren't painted on quite right. This would be a minor issue, however if I set both dropouts in their furthest back position, the wheel still points to the left. If both dropouts are as far back as they can go, the axle should be in the same position on both sides, but the wheel alignment tells me that it isn't.

Choosing the correct belt size for the CDX system depends on the chain-stay length. After purchasing the frame, I used Gates' online calculator and selected the 118 tooth belt. In order to set the correct belt tension, both dropouts must be in their furthest back position, however when I set it up this way the wheel isn't pointing straight ahead. I can set the right dropout as far back as it will go, and move the left dropout forward to straighten out the wheel, but this results in a belt with too little tension.

I called Specialized to see what they had to say, but they are unable to offer technical support over the phone. I was told to take the frame in to the dealer for them to look at it. Unfortunately these frames were sold out pretty much everywhere when I purchased it, and I ended up buying it from a shop located hundreds of miles away, so I can't take it there. Specialized claims I can take it to any of their dealers, and there is one locally. I am reluctant to take the bike in there however, as I haven't purchased anything from them and they don't have the best reputation to begin with.

As I see it, I have two options.

1) Purchase a 115 tooth belt for $80. The shorter belt would allow me to set the correct belt tension and align the wheel. I would have wasted $80 on the 118 tooth belt that should have worked in the first place. I'd also be ignoring any issues the frame might have.

2) Take the bike in to the local shop to see what they have to say. I'm sure all they can tell me is that there's something wrong with the frame or the dropouts, and it needs replacing. I'd have to ship the frame back to the store I purchased it from, and I'd be out the original $40 shipping, and another $40 return shipping, for a total of $80. These frames were scarce three months ago, and probably non-existent now, so a replacement is probably not an option. I'd have to get a refund and start shopping for another frame. I'd also have wasted two days applying Frame Saver, and have to start the bike over with a new frame.

I'm leaning toward option 1, but before I go that direction I want to see what the experts here have to say. A third option is to look into machining the right dropout to correct the problem, though that would take considerable time.

Any input is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Josh

Now you know why I buy things close to home. By the time you pay shipping and maybe return shipping you will be no money ahead and if you give anything for your time you will negative spending money. Cheapest price is not always the best or cheapest. From your discription I suspect you got a returned frame with previous problems. Roger

Asymmetrical ? they should be equidistant from the centerline of the frame.. only if steel can it be bent ..

It's a steel frame, and I believe the dropouts are cast from aluminum.

I didn't buy the frame where I did because it was cheaper, I bought it there because they were the only place I found that had them in stock. I tried the LBS first, and they told me the frames were sold out until 2015. It could have been a returned frame - one of the stickers had been partially peeled off when I received it.

I built this bike with a Rohloff Speedhub, and spent many hours machining a part to allow the Speedhub axle plate to secure to the frame. Replacing the frame with a different one would undo all this work.

"...and probably non-existent now, so a replacement is probably not an option."

It might a good idea not to assume failure at the outset. What harm is there in taking the bike to the local shop as Specialized suggests? You certainly won't get any warranty satisfaction if you do not begin the claims process.

If you were sold a returned frame as new and can make a persuasive case of this they might just possibly be able to come up with a replacement rather than risk a fraud accusation.

You have to find out what is wrong first if you want to get it right. Either take it to the local Specialized shop or to the shop you bought it at and find out what the problem is. If you kludge it together as is, you likely will not get the high quality ride out of it that you are spending all of that time and money for.

All shops are now used to people shopping in the store and then buying online to try and save a few bucks. The good shops all bite their tongues when you bring in the problem later, but they try and win you over with good service hoping you will become a loyal customer later based on the shop experience.

I have been in the same place as you. I now shop on line to get educated and learn about stuff but go to my LBS to make the purchase which is the opposite of many folks, but I have a great relationship there and in almost all cases they knock a few bucks off the price and I get it for less than online prices anyway. I figure that if I do not do business there, they will not be there later when I really do need a local shop.

As I said, I did try to buy the frame locally, but the shop told me they were sold out until 2015. It was just availability that had me go elsewhere, and it wasn't an online purchase. The shop I did end up buying it from has a good reputation and I'd be very surprised if they knowingly sold me a returned frame. I've purchased many items and services from another LBS, but they're not the Specialized dealer.

Anyway, I'll take it in and see what they say.

Sorry to bump this thread but what happened in the end. I have an AWOL with similar issues.

Perfectly valid reason to bump the thread, but you might have had a better chance of catching the OP's attention by replying with quote.