I have a diamondback edgewood hybrid bike. I looked up the specs on diamondback, but doesn't give the thread size for pedals. I heard some of the diamondbacks are. 15 mm.
Anyone know for sure, or tell me where to look for the info. I want to upgrade to some clip in pedals.
Thanks,
Roy

If the bicycle was bought anywhere except France, the pedals are standard 9/16" thread. (and probably also even if bought in France).

Excellent thanks!!!!!!!


Roy

15mm is the size of the flats used to remove the pedal.

I agree that the OP's bike prolly takes 9/16" pedals, but let's be real: there's plenty of one-piece crank bikes outside of France--and very few of these have ever been sold inFrance. Dyna-Drive is quite old and rarely seen anymore, but it still exists and is decidedly non-French. Lastly, there were countless bicycles exported from France, sold the world 'round, with the 14x1mm pedal spindles....

But, yeah, most ppl these days are running 9/16". My stable is running probably half 9/16", half 1/2"....

I was being completely real. I checked the bike's specs. before posting, which allowed me to rule out 1/2" pedals. So knowing it was a conventional cotterless crank, the only reason I didn't say with 100% certainty that it was 9/16" was the very off chance that Diamondback sells a different version in France.

I'd be completely aghast if Diamondback had any models endemic to the French market. I took your statement to be more of a generalization re: pedals;my apologies.

correct info above

there are two standard sizes of pedals you are likely to see
one is 1/2"
which is what you use on your old bmx
because it is the size used on one piece cranks
and everything else uses 9/16"

so if your diamondback does not have a one piece crank
it uses 9/16" pedal threads
and that is the size that all clipless pedals come with
with very few exceptions
in fact
you would have to search really hard
to find a set of clipless pedals that don't have 9/16" threads

all this is to say
you are probably overthinking this

go to the lbs and every clipless pedal they sell
will fit on your diamondback

Even back in the day we had 3 piece cranks on our BMX bikes. Lol just wasn't sure about diamondback, since it isn't the old school diamond back. Prolly made in China now. The flat pedals are kinda cheesey, but when I bought the bike it was for a stand, and just exercise. I figured for 450.00 with a real nice stand, was ok compared to just a 350 exercise bike. Now I'm kinda getting into it. Figured I would get some clip ins. May change the gearing too, the big gear is only a 48T.
Thanks for the replies.

Roy

48 is about the largest chainring you will see on anything except road bikes

with a 26 inch wheel and 48 x 12 gearing
you should be able to hit 49 km/h

What about changing the cassette?? Go down to a 10 or 11T. On flat ground I could use a little more speed. If i don't look at the shifter, I try and grab another gear.lol on my stand I add a lot of tension. When I'm on the flat road I wish I had more gear. Even a slight incline I stay in 21.

11 is the smallest cassette cog you will find

but the real answer
especially if you are riding for fitness
is to train your legs to spin faster

if you can turn your pedals at 100 rpm
when in the 48 x 12
then look into bigger gears
and sign up for the Olympic cycling team

I'm not rocking those rpms. Lol On flat road I'm usually around 60-70 rpms. Just the rpms I like to maintain for a long ride. I guess you would say the happy medium for me.

you arent doing 100 rpm now
but it is something to shoot for

Ok I will kick up the rpms on the next ride, see how it goes. I was thnking change gears to match my sweet spot.
Thanks,
Roy

i know it seems like the backwards way of doing it
but it is cycling orthodoxy
to try to change your sweet spot
rather than install extra large gears

practice spinning you legs slightly faster than you are comfortable with
for a few intervals during your ride
and gradually build up the duration and number of the intervals
and it will become second nature

The problem is that there's a limit on efficiency at low rpm's, so a taller gear will not make you go faster. Newer bikes all have higher top gears than before but yet people are not going faster than before.

85-90 is a good goal. When you are tempted to shift to a harder gear, try increasing cadence a bit instead. The harder/faster you want to go, the more a higher cadence will help. I usually ride at 90, but go up to 100 for harder efforts.
For those putzing along the beach path at 8 mph, cadence does not matter much.

Thanks for the advice.... I guess I started off wrong, when I started on the stand I always watched the timer and set my pace at 60 just because it was easy to set the pace. As I got in better shape I just shifted gears, or added more tension on the tire. I got to the road and it was easier than the stand, so I upped the rpms some. I had no idea 80-100 rpms was something to shoot for. Appreciate the help, and saved me some $ and time with gears.

roy

Ok guys I did a 30 mile ride yesterday. I kicked the rpms for the entire ride compared to my usual riding. If I couldn't keep the rpms up I down shifted. No doubt I got a harder workout. Lol My cruising speed was higher. Flat ground I was seeing 20-21mph. Speeds slowly lowered as the ride went on. Lol I averaged 15 mph for the 2 hours. I have a coulple places I have to stop and cross highways, and I have some monster hills too. Max speed was 29.8. The lowest I seen was 7.4. Lol
i think my motor has more torque than rpms.lol I will work on it!!!!!
thanks for the help.