Tubular tyre ?
#26
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Wow.. so many want to ride sewups, but they don't know how to mount them, or repair them....and I am further perplexed that more than 50% of riders do not carry a repair kit. Repair kit is no larger than a clincher repair kit...I guess riders don't carry one of those either.
Riding on a flat sewup is a no-no in my book,
putting goop inside tire is as well.
Flame on you light-weights.........
Riding on a flat sewup is a no-no in my book,
putting goop inside tire is as well.
Flame on you light-weights.........
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when i get a flat i just pull off the flat one and mount the spare. there is plenty of stickiness still on the rim to get me home safely. THEN i address fixing the tire, if possible.
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#32
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Riding home on a rear flat, yes, very very gently. On a front, no.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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Having heard the "zziinngg", while feeling my impact, of a rim edge scraping across the pavement after a tire rolled off the rim a couple of times I decided that there would be no third incident. Both were in the mid 1970s, both a few hours after a flat and spare replacement w/o fresh gluing. For near 30 years I carried double sided rim tape and never had another roll off.
I repeat my concerns and rants about people who choose to ride sew ups and don't know how or do their own mounting. Andy.
I repeat my concerns and rants about people who choose to ride sew ups and don't know how or do their own mounting. Andy.
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A few observations.
-Placing the valve at the very top of the wheel will let any goop in the valve stay there. Placing the valve at about 4 or 8 o'clock will let any sealant drain from the valve 9assuming the tire is filled less the 1/4 full).
-Lot's of sealants have a shelf life, or a in the tire life, of about a season. Some will tend to harden and cause clumps that roll around in the tire. I'm not sure that I would want old goop in my fancy tires.
- There's a basic goal involved here. Using ultra light and nice riding stuff. At what cost does one get to have the "good stuff".
-BITD we had 70psi gum walls or sew ups. Those who wanted to go fast learned to deal with the hassles of the more flat prone sew ups, or they went back to clinchers (actually wired ons, but that's another topic) as they were then. As clinchers evolved they got lighter, narrower, higher pressured and now their performance can come close to that of good sew ups. But still human nature prevails. Some riders want the "best" but not the cost of dealing with it.
I tell anyone who asks me about riding sew ups that they need to think about how they deal with their bike first. Do they look forward to tinkering with the bike every week or so? Do they replace parts before they're worn out? Do they do this themselves? Do they accept hands that don't clean off without serious chemicals? How sensitive to odors and solvents are they? All these questions are because I don't feel that anyone how rides sew ups should have others (shops) do their mounting/gluing. Why do I say this? because sew ups are not any where as reliable or flat proof as clinchers are (with the possibility of impact flats being the exception) and if the rider can't accept the chance that 1 in 4 tires they buy (and have a shop mount) will not hold air after a few rides then they are the wrong rider for sew ups. Remember that once a tire has been glued on a rim all warranties are invalid.
So there's my triad about sew ups. I got my first set in 1973. For a long time my only road bikes were sew up fitted. The last year I rode them weekly was 2009. Andy.
-Placing the valve at the very top of the wheel will let any goop in the valve stay there. Placing the valve at about 4 or 8 o'clock will let any sealant drain from the valve 9assuming the tire is filled less the 1/4 full).
-Lot's of sealants have a shelf life, or a in the tire life, of about a season. Some will tend to harden and cause clumps that roll around in the tire. I'm not sure that I would want old goop in my fancy tires.
- There's a basic goal involved here. Using ultra light and nice riding stuff. At what cost does one get to have the "good stuff".
-BITD we had 70psi gum walls or sew ups. Those who wanted to go fast learned to deal with the hassles of the more flat prone sew ups, or they went back to clinchers (actually wired ons, but that's another topic) as they were then. As clinchers evolved they got lighter, narrower, higher pressured and now their performance can come close to that of good sew ups. But still human nature prevails. Some riders want the "best" but not the cost of dealing with it.
I tell anyone who asks me about riding sew ups that they need to think about how they deal with their bike first. Do they look forward to tinkering with the bike every week or so? Do they replace parts before they're worn out? Do they do this themselves? Do they accept hands that don't clean off without serious chemicals? How sensitive to odors and solvents are they? All these questions are because I don't feel that anyone how rides sew ups should have others (shops) do their mounting/gluing. Why do I say this? because sew ups are not any where as reliable or flat proof as clinchers are (with the possibility of impact flats being the exception) and if the rider can't accept the chance that 1 in 4 tires they buy (and have a shop mount) will not hold air after a few rides then they are the wrong rider for sew ups. Remember that once a tire has been glued on a rim all warranties are invalid.
So there's my triad about sew ups. I got my first set in 1973. For a long time my only road bikes were sew up fitted. The last year I rode them weekly was 2009. Andy.
Truth; you have to be keen. But damn, they can be sweet
NB: I reported this post, with
I tried to mention Andrew R Stewart, but it mentions Andrew R instead >: (
...
Can you un-mention someone?
Last edited by Kimmo; 11-16-14 at 11:34 PM.