Cassette is loose
#1
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Cassette is loose
Hi,
The bike is a jamis venturas 2008 and the rear wheel is a Xero 220 Shawla:
Robot Check
Couldn't find the specs but I bought the bike used with a 10sp cassette. The bike has 105 group-set.
On the highest speed (closer to the wheel), I can hear the wheel spoke making contact with the chain (or the cassette also since it does that with the 2nd highest speed). Tightening the lock-ring didn't change anything. I've bought a 1mm shimano spacer. When I put it, there's no play at all but I cannot reach the two smallest speed. It's kind of hard to explain it but the 1mm spacer is actually spacing the cassette more than 1mm since the cassette is ''blocked'' on the hub (see the image).

I wonder what I can do to fix this?
Cheers!
The bike is a jamis venturas 2008 and the rear wheel is a Xero 220 Shawla:
Robot Check
Couldn't find the specs but I bought the bike used with a 10sp cassette. The bike has 105 group-set.
On the highest speed (closer to the wheel), I can hear the wheel spoke making contact with the chain (or the cassette also since it does that with the 2nd highest speed). Tightening the lock-ring didn't change anything. I've bought a 1mm shimano spacer. When I put it, there's no play at all but I cannot reach the two smallest speed. It's kind of hard to explain it but the 1mm spacer is actually spacing the cassette more than 1mm since the cassette is ''blocked'' on the hub (see the image).
I wonder what I can do to fix this?
Cheers!
#3
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#4
Are you sure its not the RD touching the spokes and not the chain touching spokes?
At the 1:50 mark shows the assembly of this if that's what you are doing something is not correct and you most likely do need to re-adjust the the RD limit screws and cable tension with it.
At the 1:50 mark shows the assembly of this if that's what you are doing something is not correct and you most likely do need to re-adjust the the RD limit screws and cable tension with it.
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Last edited by JTGraphics; 10-30-14 at 04:08 PM.
#5
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Are you sure its not the RD touching the spokes and not the chain touching spokes?
At the 1:50 mark shows the assembly of this if that's what you are doing something is not correct and you most likely do need to re-adjust the the RD limit screws and cable tension with it.
At the 1:50 mark shows the assembly of this if that's what you are doing something is not correct and you most likely do need to re-adjust the the RD limit screws and cable tension with it.
The bike was shown to two LBS. One didn't have spacer and the second seemed to be clueless of what the problem (or solution) was. He agreed a spacer was the best thing to try but it was obviously not that kind of spacer I needed.
I know how to adjust a rear derailleur, watched a lot of video how to. I did set the limit screws correctly and I did play with the tension cable.
I never had any problem with my Opus Andante 2008 when I installed a new cassette and was able to correctly adjust the rear derailleur. On the jamis ventura, the cassette is loose and is causing the wheel contact.
Shall I mention that if I switch with my shimano R500, there is no problem. I could make a video if you want. It might help you figure out what is the problem.
#6
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From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
If the derailleur hanger is aligned and the derailleur's low limit is adjusted properly, the chain and derailleur won't contact the wheel.
Adding a spacer won't fix the underlying problem and may actually cause more problems.
Adding a spacer won't fix the underlying problem and may actually cause more problems.
#7
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From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
If you can tighten the cassette with the spacer in place, you need the spacer. Loose cassette cogs will damage the freehub.
With the spacer in place re-adjust both derailleur limit screws and cable tension.
BTW, the highest speed cog is the smallest.
With the spacer in place re-adjust both derailleur limit screws and cable tension.
BTW, the highest speed cog is the smallest.
#8
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Sorry I was wrong, I don't know to adjust a derailleur after all

I was just playing with the "thingy" to adjust the tension. I thought it couldn't release the derailleur more than the minimal position. Releasing the wire did the trick... now the cassette is very stable with the spacer!
Thanks a lot for your help!
#9
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
OK something is wrong (based on the drawn lines in the photo). The cassette should dead stop against the same shoulder as the spacer. A photo of the back of the cassette might help.
At the same time, the correct position for the cassette is with the front sprocket overhanging the outer face of the freehub body by 1-2mm and no more. It has to overhang so the locknut can tighten without bottoming (analogous to the spacer stack with threadless headsets), but more than that can cause the chain to rub the dropout in high.
So the place to start is to base the cassette position of the front overhang, and do what's necessary to achieve that. Then, if necessary research the reason you can't shift to high, most likely a bent hanger.
At the same time, the correct position for the cassette is with the front sprocket overhanging the outer face of the freehub body by 1-2mm and no more. It has to overhang so the locknut can tighten without bottoming (analogous to the spacer stack with threadless headsets), but more than that can cause the chain to rub the dropout in high.
So the place to start is to base the cassette position of the front overhang, and do what's necessary to achieve that. Then, if necessary research the reason you can't shift to high, most likely a bent hanger.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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