tire size and odometers
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tire size and odometers
Hi there,
I'm new here, and this is my first post. I have a Nirve Wilshire (ladies).
Nirve Ladies Wilshire City Bike from Big Time Cruisers
The tires are 700c x 35. I just bought a Schwinn odometer, and I am trying to set the wheel size to get proper milage/speed. They do not list 700c x 35 as a size on their chart. They have 700 x 25, 28, or 32. I don't know what to do, Can someone help me?
I'm new here, and this is my first post. I have a Nirve Wilshire (ladies).
Nirve Ladies Wilshire City Bike from Big Time Cruisers
The tires are 700c x 35. I just bought a Schwinn odometer, and I am trying to set the wheel size to get proper milage/speed. They do not list 700c x 35 as a size on their chart. They have 700 x 25, 28, or 32. I don't know what to do, Can someone help me?
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A stickler for accuracy sits on the bike and rolls along the sidewalk, while a friend with chalk measures the distance covered in one revolution of the front tire. Some computers require the distance in millimeters, others prompt for centimeters, IME.
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I've got a tape that measures in cm. Inches would also work with conversion by one of a multitude of conversion programs or methods.
I set the valve at 0, then slowly roll my tire forward till the valve is down again.
Do it a couple of times, and you have your speedometer/odometer perfectly calibrated to your bike and tire. I round to the nearest half cm,
I usually walk my bike with a little weight on it, but I don't know if that is absolutely necessary.
I set the valve at 0, then slowly roll my tire forward till the valve is down again.
Do it a couple of times, and you have your speedometer/odometer perfectly calibrated to your bike and tire. I round to the nearest half cm,
I usually walk my bike with a little weight on it, but I don't know if that is absolutely necessary.
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There is variance between different tires of the same size. Not all 32's will measure the same. I always do the roll out method described by others above, while leaning down on the handle bars to simulate riding weight. I guess that makes me a stickler for accuracy.
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Usually there's a simple formula. What numbers do they have for the listed sizes?
A stickler for accuracy sits on the bike and rolls along the sidewalk, while a friend with chalk measures the distance covered in one revolution of the front tire. Some computers require the distance in millimeters, others prompt for centimeters, IME.
OK, the literature was wrong. I went down to the garage and looked on the tire, and it is 700c x32, (NOT 35) which is listed on the chart. Thanx guys! Should work now.
I've got a tape that measures in cm. Inches would also work with conversion by one of a multitude of conversion programs or methods.
I set the valve at 0, then slowly roll my tire forward till the valve is down again.
Do it a couple of times, and you have your speedometer/odometer perfectly calibrated to your bike and tire. I round to the nearest half cm,
I usually walk my bike with a little weight on it, but I don't know if that is absolutely necessary.
I set the valve at 0, then slowly roll my tire forward till the valve is down again.
Do it a couple of times, and you have your speedometer/odometer perfectly calibrated to your bike and tire. I round to the nearest half cm,
I usually walk my bike with a little weight on it, but I don't know if that is absolutely necessary.
Do a rollout!
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 01-15-15 at 10:09 PM.
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I've got a tape that measures in cm. Inches would also work with conversion by one of a multitude of conversion programs or methods.
I set the valve at 0, then slowly roll my tire forward till the valve is down again.
Do it a couple of times, and you have your speedometer/odometer perfectly calibrated to your bike and tire. I round to the nearest half cm,
I usually walk my bike with a little weight on it, but I don't know if that is absolutely necessary.
I set the valve at 0, then slowly roll my tire forward till the valve is down again.
Do it a couple of times, and you have your speedometer/odometer perfectly calibrated to your bike and tire. I round to the nearest half cm,
I usually walk my bike with a little weight on it, but I don't know if that is absolutely necessary.
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Or just find the local taxi and police measured mile. Ride it a few times noting the pre or post wheel rotations to catch up/slow down so that both the odometer and the mile stop points are recorded and averaged. Then do the math for the difference and correct the computer calibration.
I did this a few times one year and found the same bike (and tires) had different results... There's something to the simplicity of believing in side walls and a chart Andy.
I did this a few times one year and found the same bike (and tires) had different results... There's something to the simplicity of believing in side walls and a chart Andy.