How to get these pedals off?
03-14-15 | 02:39 PM
#1
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How to get these pedals off?
So, I'm trying to figure out how to get this bolt out that runs through the center of the base of the pedal crank. It's completely round on this side...
... and threaded through the center of the crank.
Basically, I'm trying to get the cranks off. Do I need to remove this particular bolt to do it, or is there some other method that I'm missing?
03-14-15 | 02:48 PM
#3
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From: Hampton Roads VA
Bikes: '07 Trek 520, '09 Gary Fisher Triton, '04 Trek 8000, '85 Trek 500, '84 Trek 610, '85 Trek 510, '88 Trek 660, '92 Trek 930, Trek Multitrack 700
I've never had to deal with cottered cranks, but here is an article from Sheldon which you will find helpful.
Cottered Cranks
New Crank Cotter Press
Cottered Cranks
New Crank Cotter Press
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"When I hear another express an opinion, which is not mine, I say to myself, He has a right to his opinion, as I to mine; why should I question it. His error does me no injury, and shall I become a Don Quixot to bring all men by force of argument, to one opinion? If a fact be misstated, it is probable he is gratified by a belief of it, and I have no right to deprive him of the gratification."
T. Jefferson
Last edited by bhchdh; 03-14-15 at 02:53 PM.
03-14-15 | 02:49 PM
#4
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I've never had to deal with cottered cranks, but here is an article from Sheldon which you will find helpful.
Cottered Cranks
Cottered Cranks
03-14-15 | 03:33 PM
#5
SE Wis
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,556
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
A press works best. If this is a one time deal, call around to local shops, ask if they have a cotter press and how much $ to press a couple out. If you're work on these often and are handy you can make your own cheap. Also search in Classic & Vintage numerous threads on various methods without a press. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ter-press.html
03-14-15 | 03:56 PM
#6
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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50's and earlier common .. Cottered Crank arm.
Bang ing them out means buying New Cotters and filing the taper to fit . so the cotter press is the way to Go .
SF have any Bike CoOps ? How about SF state student Union? cotter is soft Metal arm and spindle, harder.
thread is just for the Nut to keep them On its the taper abd banging on the other end that gets them Tight.
Pedal ..On the Other end... unscrews like Normal. RH right , LH Left
Bang ing them out means buying New Cotters and filing the taper to fit . so the cotter press is the way to Go .
SF have any Bike CoOps ? How about SF state student Union? cotter is soft Metal arm and spindle, harder.
thread is just for the Nut to keep them On its the taper abd banging on the other end that gets them Tight.
Pedal ..On the Other end... unscrews like Normal. RH right , LH Left
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-14-15 at 04:50 PM.
03-15-15 | 02:20 AM
#8
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Joined: Nov 2014
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From: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Gently might not do it, especially if it hasn't been removed for a half century.
I've always pounded the cotters out, but rarely reinstalled them. If you do pound on them, you'll likely damage the cotters and they'll need to be replaced. It has also been suggested to support the bottom side of the crank when doing it to prevent damage to the bottom bracket (if you are planning to reuse it).
The press sounds like a good idea. Does it limit damage to the cotters?
I've always pounded the cotters out, but rarely reinstalled them. If you do pound on them, you'll likely damage the cotters and they'll need to be replaced. It has also been suggested to support the bottom side of the crank when doing it to prevent damage to the bottom bracket (if you are planning to reuse it).
The press sounds like a good idea. Does it limit damage to the cotters?
03-15-15 | 02:43 AM
#9
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Louisville KY
Bikes: Rideable; 83 Schwinn High Sierra. Two cruiser, bmx bike, one other mtb, three road frames, one citybike.
Gently might not do it, especially if it hasn't been removed for a half century.
I've always pounded the cotters out, but rarely reinstalled them. If you do pound on them, you'll likely damage the cotters and they'll need to be replaced. It has also been suggested to support the bottom side of the crank when doing it to prevent damage to the bottom bracket (if you are planning to reuse it).
The press sounds like a good idea. Does it limit damage to the cotters?
I've always pounded the cotters out, but rarely reinstalled them. If you do pound on them, you'll likely damage the cotters and they'll need to be replaced. It has also been suggested to support the bottom side of the crank when doing it to prevent damage to the bottom bracket (if you are planning to reuse it).
The press sounds like a good idea. Does it limit damage to the cotters?
03-15-15 | 02:57 AM
#10
SE Wis
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,556
Likes: 4,333
From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
03-15-15 | 09:03 AM
#11
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
Here's my method.
C Clamp
10mm axle spacer (or similar)
Note this cotter is already pushed, but I wasn't going to drive it back in just for a picture.
For a day or 2 before removal, apply a couple drops of penetrating oil and let it soak. repeat frequently.
Having the treads "up" and nut removed helps.
Screw nut back on so that threads are "flush".
I use the "solid" part of the C clamp here.
Use the 10mm spacer on the opposite side as a "receiver".
The "swivel" side of the C clamp seems to be a bit more "solid" on this side.
The finer the threads on the C clamp, the greater the force applied. Some C clamps have relative coarse threads.
C Clamp
10mm axle spacer (or similar)
Note this cotter is already pushed, but I wasn't going to drive it back in just for a picture.
For a day or 2 before removal, apply a couple drops of penetrating oil and let it soak. repeat frequently.
Having the treads "up" and nut removed helps.
Screw nut back on so that threads are "flush".
I use the "solid" part of the C clamp here.
Use the 10mm spacer on the opposite side as a "receiver".
The "swivel" side of the C clamp seems to be a bit more "solid" on this side.
The finer the threads on the C clamp, the greater the force applied. Some C clamps have relative coarse threads.
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