To drill or not to drill, that is the question
#1
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Aspiring curmudgeon


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To drill or not to drill, that is the question
If you were installing a modern(ish) group on an old frame, would drill the fork and bridge for recessed allen key brakes and keep the whole group together, or just spring for some of those nutted Tektro dual pivot sidepulls to avoid modifying the frame?
Group is 9 speed Chorus and the frame is Mercian, for reference. And I realize this is a deeply philosophical question for many. I'm just interested in other opinions.
Group is 9 speed Chorus and the frame is Mercian, for reference. And I realize this is a deeply philosophical question for many. I'm just interested in other opinions.
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#2
PanGalacticGargleBlaster
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From: Smugglers Notch, Vermont
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I'd probably get the nutted calipers. Its so much easier. I've done it both ways... its not particularly hard to drill out the bridge/crown...slightly harder to do a decent job, but waaaaay easier to not do it. (if you can stand to look at those Tektro calipers.)
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#3
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Aspiring curmudgeon


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I'd probably get the nutted calipers. Its so much easier. I've done it both ways... its not particularly hard to drill out the bridge/crown...slightly harder to do a decent job, but waaaaay easier to not do it. (if you can stand to look at those Tektro calipers.)
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#5
tantum vehi


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I'm no Campy-phile, so this may seem noob-ish, but can one cannabilize the Tektros for bolt parts and use with the Campy brakes? You might note that I don't have a lot of brake-swapping experience...
#7
Drilling that frame is a tough call. I have drilled frames before, but they were more common production Treks and Raleighs... I'd think twice about this one, and I am honestly not sure what I would decide in the end.
#9
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I would drill the back of the fork only and swap the front & back calipers. I've done it several times. To me it makes the frame more useful and doesn't hurt it, touch up the paint where you ream it. Nice frame! [MENTION=61707]squirtdad[/MENTION] says it well here.
#10
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I would drill the back of the fork only and swap the front & back calipers. I've done it several times. To me it makes the frame more useful and doesn't hurt it, touch up the paint where you ream it. Nice frame! [MENTION=61707]squirtdad[/MENTION] says it well here.
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
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#11
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Sarah Palin says, "Drill, Baby, Drill!"
Considering the source of that advice, you know you should do the opposite.
Considering the source of that advice, you know you should do the opposite.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 03-31-15 at 03:27 PM.
#12
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#14
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Aspiring curmudgeon


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This is an interesting idea. Has anyone tried it?
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#15
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Drilling will only takes moments, regret is forever. I'd find a set of nutted calipers.
#16
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There are strategies to fit recessed brakes on frames made for nutted: mount the front brake to the rear bridge and install the rear brake to the front with the nut up under the fork crown, essentially holding the brake to the front of the crown.
#17
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#18
This is the best option if the tektro brakes are really a problem.
#19
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Check the brake caliper reach first of course.
#22
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Drill a vintage frame? Not a single chance in Hades!
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#23
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I truly do not get the no drill sentiment... if it were a rare frame done 100% period correct, then I get it, but a frame that is going to be used and with modern components?
The drilling is one hole only, the back of the fork
The "drilling" could be done with a rat tail file.....the shavings weight when using a drill would be measured in milligrams,
This is not like cutting off a derailler hanger or cable guides
The drilling is one hole only, the back of the fork
The "drilling" could be done with a rat tail file.....the shavings weight when using a drill would be measured in milligrams,
This is not like cutting off a derailler hanger or cable guides
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
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#24
Fat Guy on a Little Bike


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Agree with squirt - drill er'. It's a relatively benign change and won't hurt aesthetics too much.
#25
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I don't understand the Tektro hate. For modern brakes they don't look that bad and their silver finish will look appropriate on a classic frame. They'll certainly perform better than Campy sidepulls or just about any sidepulls.
How far down do they need to reach on that frame? That will probably dictate what brakes you can use as much as the attachment mount. Some highly polished centerpulls would look good and brake well.
How far down do they need to reach on that frame? That will probably dictate what brakes you can use as much as the attachment mount. Some highly polished centerpulls would look good and brake well.




