I was recently given a 1973 Raleigh Super Course for free- it was missing some parts and was a bit of a rust bucket but still, it was free! I've been looking for a new project bike to build up to be a back up for my regular ride and this was just what I was looking for. Also, I've really wanted a Raleigh and a Super Course would be a great one to have.

I tore it down and cleaned it off and started hitting the rust with some Naval Jelly. The paint job was already shot, so I figured I'd just work on getting rid of the rust. Well, beneath some of that rust was a hairline crack- right on the beveled edge at the top end of the seat stay. I'm still going to throw it together and just use it to ride around town, see how long it lasts. I guess it's back to the hunt! I guess I just need a good frame now, I seem to have all the components I need....

Sorry to hear. Is it possible to get a pic. My brain is not visualizing the location. Just me...

Got a picture? Sounds like a crappy braze fill on the seat stay cap.

Aaron

I could post one but I just primed over it! I've been wanting to try painting a bike, so this will be a good one to learn on. I picked at it with an exacto knife and it's definitely a crack. Well, there's a sweep meet in Lawrence KS next weekend, so maybe I'll find something there! Here's a pic I found on the internet- same exact location but mine's not this bad.

Since the paint is wasted I'd braze it. If you cant find a frame builder nearby, a machine shop would do that up nicely.

What do you think someone would charge for that? Maybe $50?

Not structural. Given it's '73 vintage, you're lucky that's the only issue. Quite a few left the house with one of the main tube joints unbrazed. A half decent body shop could do that for you in a minute.

thanks for the info! I have couple places in mind I could ask (one is right around the corner from me). I guess my original plans of building it up in to a road bike are back on.

Heres the cap on my 71

You can always repair steel. Whether you'll be happy with the repair and how it looks is another matter. Is the bike worth having a frame builder professionally repair it. He might find more tubes that need repaired.

Their time is valuable to them. They need to get the same rate whether they are building a bike out of Reynolds 531 vintage tubing or welding on a crappy Raleigh. However, that might be a great crack to learn to braze yourself. Anyone can learn to competently braze bike tubing in an afternoon with the right equipment.

I agree, non-structural. Easy to have brazed up, especially if you plan to repaint. Raleigh was a mass producer, that one isn't nearly as bad as some I have seen.

Aaron

That's not a structural problem, just cosmetic. A little rust reformer if it's rusty and fill it up with Bondo or something. Should last forever.

Working on a 73 SC (love the capella lugs) right now myself and it was coming along nicely until the problem of the massively stuck chrome seatpost. I have not given up yet but running out of options other than machine shop reamer. Been hacksawing it but no luck yet. Did not want to stress the seat lug area with any crazy anvil moves, etc. Did take bb out and tried threaded rod slide, no luck, Hacksawing right now, maybe try a sawzall but that would be last resort. Also thought about cold chisel the chromo out/down enough to get another post in.

OP, I see you're in Kansas, and you mention Lawrence. The suggestion to find a local frame builder is the way to go, and it sounds like you're probably not far from Lenexa. Look up Julie Ann Pedalino; I bet if you reach out to her she can fix you right up. While you're waiting, check out her bikes - she's a real up and comer.

+1 especially because the is non structural!

If you are in KC you have a couple of options on places for people who can do that work. Julie Ann Pedalino at velo+ or the Groody Bros can do minor braze work at Groody Brothers. The latter also does powder coating if you want it.

I'm wondering if you should even bother with silver/bronze brazing to fill those non structural gaps up. Maybe lead /tinning would work OK. A more durable gap sealer than bondo and should last the life of the bike plus you might be able to do it yourself because of the lower temperatures involved (compared to brazing)......

Bummer.

No reason to apply heat to an assembled frame; you could have repaired it easy with JB Weld, sanded it smooth and it would be gone...

Take off the stay caps on both sides file down the open end of the stays smooth, glue in a short length of hardwood dowel with epoxy that you will tap into the stay for a tight fit., Sand the end of the wooden dowel flush to the edge of the angled cut end of the stays, and varnish or seal with clear acrylic, the exposed end and it will look kehwl! Imagine the possibilities, maple, burl, ebony.....

Stick with the hacksaw. It works with the right amt of effort. Don't try and force the remaining seat post bit down inside to fit another one. A sawzall blade used like the hacksaw blade might speed the job along.

All here have been there...

Just a seatstay cap. Bondo, JB Weld, putty, whatever it takes to fill the gap. This is common with older bikes. No big deal. Just seal the seam and move on.

Thanks everyone for the info! I'm currently laying some primer on it for a re-paint. I haven't painted a bicycle before (or much of anything else), so it's fun giving it a shot. Here's a pic of the bike right after I brought it home. I already have wheels I can put on it and I've got a few other parts on the way. It should turn out to be a nice ride, even if my paint job doesn't work out well!

This gentleman built frames for a living for years. I'd go with this advice and ride without further worries.