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-   -   Ironman Information Thread (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1034941-ironman-information-thread.html)

diomekes 10-31-18 09:19 AM


Originally Posted by texaspandj (Post 20637826)
Agreed, as it is stated Tange 1 in catalogs, magazine reviews etc. However at this point not much would surprise me.

With all this talk about tubing, I just noticed that the catalog for '86 says "Custom mix of Tange #1 Champion tubing." Wonder what that means...

RobbieTunes 10-31-18 09:28 AM


Originally Posted by texaspandj (Post 20637826)
Agreed, as it is stated Tange 1 in catalogs, magazine reviews etc. However at this point not much would surprise me.

Whatever Zunow used, right?

Classtime 11-02-18 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by diomekes (Post 20641795)
With all this talk about tubing, I just noticed that the catalog for '86 says "Custom mix of Tange #1 Champion tubing." Wonder what that means...

Different butts I assume. I hope to pick up an 86 tomorrow.

danders 11-25-18 11:40 AM

Comp TA FS
 
A Comp TA came up for sale in my area and correct size. 54cm bike, 5'8" me.
Looks good and seems to have been on a wind trainer lately.
The bad is the stem is crazy high and long (angles up). What size reach would
I want 90mm? $150 good price considering it needs stem?

Thanks

RobbieTunes 11-26-18 06:07 AM

No one can decide what fits, but 90mm is a nice standard size stem.
$150 is a good price for any decent Comp TA. At 5'8" sounds about right.
If you need a stem, let me know. I can welcome you to the Centurion fold with one.
It might be 90, might be 100, haven't measured.

texaspandj 11-26-18 01:30 PM


Originally Posted by danders (Post 20676961)
A Comp TA came up for sale in my area and correct size. 54cm bike, 5'8" me.
Looks good and seems to have been on a wind trainer lately.
The bad is the stem is crazy high and long (angles up). What size reach would
I want 90mm? $150 good price considering it needs stem?

Thanks

150 sounds good depending on conditon. Since you cant post pics due to post count, where are you located so we can take a looksie?

danders 11-26-18 09:37 PM

Portland Oregon CL
It was originally posted at $150 for bike then he decided to keep in less than 24hrs. Now asking $275 for bike and wind trainer but in email said he would sell bike alone..........

texaspandj 11-27-18 06:57 AM

Pic assist.
Looks good. Should be noted that stem, bars, brake levers and at least one wheel are not original. 150 is a good price for just bike though.https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b3a7c75403.jpg

danders 11-27-18 07:50 AM

Thanks for the input, Is there a chance that I would find the stem acceptable?
Bike is on the other side of town so no time to see till later this week or weekend.
I do appreciate everyone's help and enthusiasm for these bikes.

Also considering Raleigh clubman 2012ish.......................

texaspandj 11-27-18 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by danders (Post 20679707)
Thanks for the input, Is there a chance that I would find the stem acceptable?
Bike is on the other side of town so no time to see till later this week or weekend.
I do appreciate everyone's help and enthusiasm for these bikes.

Also considering Raleigh clubman 2012ish.......................

Hey if it fits , no problem.
Whatever it takes to make you comfortable and Ride.
BTW, saddle is not original.
​​​​​​​

canklecat 11-27-18 10:02 PM


Originally Posted by danders (Post 20679707)
Thanks for the input, Is there a chance that I would find the stem acceptable?
Bike is on the other side of town so no time to see till later this week or weekend.
I do appreciate everyone's help and enthusiasm for these bikes.

That stem probably has nearly the same reach as the original horizontal stem, assuming the original was around 120mm CTC. The upward angle would reduce reach a bit, but that stem appears quite a bit longer than 120mm.

It's probably very comfortable, if not as aero as a horizontal stem. But it's always a tradeoff between comfort and aerodynamics.

I would actually consider an upward angled stem like that for my road bike. My hybrid already has that kind of stem. Some new road bikes, notably the Litespeed titanium models, come originally equipped with upward angled threadless stems for a compromise between comfort and aerodynamics. It usually places the top of the drop bars just a little below saddle height, maybe an inch. At 61 with a bum neck and shoulder, my days of using a slammed stem handlebar have come to an end. My drop bar is gradually drifting upward to nearly level with the saddle.

Depending on the stem length inside the head tube it might be possible to lower the stem a bit. Unless the stem is already bottomed out there may be up to an inch to play with. The tricky part is being certain the head tube doesn't taper inward near the bottom. That can prevent properly seating the wedge of a quill stem. If the wedge isn't fully clamped in contact with the parallel inner walls of a head tube, it's possible the stem could rotate later -- that's potentially disastrous.

An easy trick to find out whether a head tube tapers inward toward the bottom:
  • Loosen the wedge (usually a hex key/Allen wrench to loosen a single bolt in the top of the vertical portion of the stem).
  • Lift the stem/bars about an inch without completely removing the stem from the head tube.
  • Gradually re-tighten the bolt until the wedge just barely touches the inner walls of the head tube. You should still be able to slide the stem up and down with minimal wiggle room.
  • Slide the stem fully into the head tube until it stops. Mark a spot on the stem next to the top of the head tube. Or use a bit of tape.
  • Lift the stem out completely and measure the length from the marked spot to the bottom of the stem. Check that measurement against the head tube.
  • If it's the full length of the head tube, there's no taper. If it stops well short of the bottom of the head tube, it's tapered at that point.
  • When lowering the stem for actual riding, don't exceed the depth where the taper begins. That's as low as it's safe to go and have the wedge tightly gripping the inner walls of the head tube.

RobbieTunes 11-28-18 06:05 AM

Good advice.

I may be amiss, but this kind of was a thread for information about the Ironman model, and from time to time we drift, me included, to other topics that may be better discussed on the non-sticky Ironman thread.

If I'm wrong, apologies, but I'm thinking of new people who come here for information on their Ironman model (Comp TA included, as the predecessor). It might be easier if we don't fill up the sticky with information some new cult member has to wade through to get to the actual Ironman data.


Again, apologies if I'm wrong. I don't own the thread and didn't make it a sticky, but it appears to be drifting.

seedsbelize 11-28-18 07:51 AM


Originally Posted by RobbieTunes (Post 20681418)
Good advice.

I may be amiss, but this kind of was a thread for information about the Ironman model, and from time to time we drift, me included, to other topics that may be better discussed on the non-sticky Ironman thread.

If I'm wrong, apologies, but I'm thinking of new people who come here for information on their Ironman model (Comp TA included, as the predecessor). It might be easier if we don't fill up the sticky with information some new cult member has to wade through to get to the actual Ironman data.


Again, apologies if I'm wrong. I don't own the thread and didn't make it a sticky, but it appears to be drifting.

Kudos

texaspandj 11-28-18 09:04 AM


Originally Posted by RobbieTunes (Post 20681418)
Good advice.

I may be amiss, but this kind of was a thread for information about the Ironman model, and from time to time we drift, me included, to other topics that may be better discussed on the non-sticky Ironman thread.

If I'm wrong, apologies, but I'm thinking of new people who come here for information on their Ironman model (Comp TA included, as the predecessor). It might be easier if we don't fill up the sticky with information some new cult member has to wade through to get to the actual Ironman data.


Again, apologies if I'm wrong. I don't own the thread and didn't make it a sticky, but it appears to be drifting.

RT Initially I was with you on that BUT, not anymore.
The problem is in the thread title. Unlike in the beginning where everyone was adding information on OEM or Stock Ironman, Now It seems most everyone who comes on here is looking for "Information" or help on the Ironman.
In fact I say (because of thread title) this would be the better place to come for Questions and Ironman Information. Thinking about it, I can see why new Ironman owners would head here first. Maybe something in the title stating read first page first would be helpful though.
So maybe it's just time for us to embrace it, accept it, it is what it is and so forth and so on.

RobbieTunes 11-28-18 10:12 AM

To me, "paint jobs" is more of an Ironman owner, hence discussion thread. Just my opinion. I go there first, because I'm not really searching for Ironman information any more. For example, if I want to find out about an '86 Ironman on CL, I go here. If I want to see canklecat's solution to a GPX rear derailleur spring, I'd go the "paint jobs" thread.

This thread was begun to list available data on Ironman models, like OEM colors, components, frame details, etc. I did not make it a sticky, but perhaps after so many posts, it just went that way. It certainly started out as a good resource, I think, but now the information is much harder to find, hidden.

If someone searching Ironman bikes comes to the information thread to find basic and thorough information, is it readily available here? Is it hard to find? The thread started off like gangbusters, but the information is finite. The interest in it seems to be ongoing, hence perhaps the sticky.

I certainly see no problem with multiple threads, as each have their topics. After all, world domination has to start somewhere. My take was that if I wanted to buy an Ironman, I'd go the this thread, and once I joined the cult, I'd go to the "paint jobs" and speak with others who drank the Kool-Aid. I'd be interested to see others' take, like texaspandj's.

Maybe it's just Wednesday, I dunno.

texaspandj 11-28-18 10:28 AM

Well just as "paint jobs" has turned into a discussion of all things Centurion maybe this has morphed into all questions pertaining to Ironman? Like what's the largest size tire will a Miami Vice take and such.
Maybe you should start another thread called "All Centurion Ironman Questions answered Here" or at least put "read first page before asking questions". Besides it's Friday RT...wait sorry you're right it's Wednesday but every days a Holiday when you're riding.

Vintage_Cyclist 11-28-18 11:32 AM

Trying to keep internet forum threads focused is like herding cats.

RobbieTunes 11-28-18 03:50 PM

I got to both threads, anyway, so it's all good.

As far as herding cats, most of mine ran away after I gave them a bath.

Classtime 11-29-18 03:30 PM

I think if we each make a point to read Post #1 before posting here, this sticky will not get so cluttered.

What is the TT length ctc of a size 60 1986 classic? (a real question btw)

jeff

seedsbelize 11-29-18 09:27 PM


Originally Posted by Classtime (Post 20683753)
I think if we each make a point to read Post #1 before posting here, this sticky will not get so cluttered.

What is the TT length ctc of a size 60 1986 classic? (a real question btw)

jeff

58, no?

RobbieTunes 11-30-18 12:08 AM


Originally Posted by seedsbelize (Post 20684231)
58, no?

+1, the ones I've built for cehowardGS were all 60cm frames and all 58cm TT.

Classtime 11-30-18 10:10 AM


Originally Posted by RobbieTunes (Post 20684341)
+1, the ones I've built for cehowardGS were all 60cm frames and all 58cm TT.

Darn it.
The 62 ctt that I am riding now has a TT that measures 57 ctc (surprised me too). I can get the contact points in the right place but I was hoping to find a Classic 60 with a 57 cm TT (like my Miami Vice) so that I would have a little more seat post and stem showing.

Do the Classic 58s that you have measured have a 57cm ctc TT?

RobbieTunes 11-30-18 05:11 PM


Originally Posted by Classtime (Post 20684767)
Darn it.
The 62 ctt that I am riding now has a TT that measures 57 ctc (surprised me too). I can get the contact points in the right place but I was hoping to find a Classic 60 with a 57 cm TT (like my Miami Vice) so that I would have a little more seat post and stem showing.

Do the Classic 58s that you have measured have a 57cm ctc TT?

The 58s I’ve had were 57c TT

crank_addict 12-22-18 12:56 PM

The early days..
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...766e7e8e96.jpg

RobbieTunes 12-22-18 04:03 PM

Cool
 
Very cool.

Originally Posted by crank_addict (Post 20715430)



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