I recently picked up a 1982 Trek 720. The paint job is in very good shape for an old bike but I want to get on top of any potential rust issues. My current plan is to deal with the problem on the inside and out. This is what I'm thinking of doing but I figure people have more experience with this than I do so I'd love to hear your ideas.

(1) I'm planning to use JP Weigle rust saver for the inside. Is there a better product to use and what is it?

(2) Some of the threaded bits have some rust. I was thinking of buying the right tap (not a bad thing to own) to chase the threads and then install a stainless fastner with some grease to keep the elements out. Is there a better way to deal with rust on the various threaded bit?

(3) The frame has a few rust spots and a few spots with missing paint. I plan to use a fine sand paper to deal with the rust and then paint over the spots. I'm touring on this bike so I want a tough, long-lasting solution. I'm thinking of using a white rustoleum for a base and then finding a close color match--probably a model paint--to go over the white. I don't care if it looks perfect; I just want to deal with the rust and have it look reasonably good. Is this a good way to deal with the minor rust issues and missing paint or is there a better way to deal with this?

I've never gone to this much trouble in dealing with an old frame but I want to give this long lasting protection since it will be spending a considerable amount of time outside.

Did you OA the frame or at least the threaded areas you are concerned about?
Brass brush should clean up the threads.

You should look into automotive paint, not hobby paint.

I wasn't planning on using OA on the frame. I was just thinking of using JP weigle.

I was planning on using a good quality paint like rustoleum in white and then using a hobby paint to go on top just to get a color that was close. So the hobby paint is just for cheap cosmetics.

From what you describe, an OA bath sounds like it might be overkill. Your plan sounds good to me. You could also treat any rust areas with something like Evaporust, which will chemically convert the surface to something benign.

Second that. It's better not just to remove the rust because it will just rust again. For inconspicuous parts I use Vactan (available on eBay) which is a mixture of tannic acid and organic binders. It converts red rust Fe[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]3[/SUB] to black rust Fe[SUB]3[/SUB]O[SUB]4[/SUB] and binds it together. It works very well and will protect parts indefinitely, even in very wet conditions.

Here is a fork I treated a few days ago. I brushed Vactan on the exposed steel areas, including the inside of the tube:



It dries hard and can be painted directly.

Good advice above. You might consider, depending on the thread size, using a bore brush that uses brass. It can be found in the gun cleaning section of Wally Mart.

Using a converter is a good idea and worth it, so is a an OA bath or combination of both.

Another alternative to using grease is to use anti-seize, which feels like a grease but is used to prevent seizing between metals. The choice of SS fasteners is a good one in my opinion. I don't get why more component manufactures of quality parts don't use more of it given the cost of those parts.

Most stainless bolts have a lower tensile strength. That is typically why.

Where strength isn't important, or stainless steel is adequate, use 'em. Water bottle bolts don't snap off. Rack mounts, I've never had one break, but I'd consider a chromed, high strength bolt if I were doing loaded touring. Stem and seat post bolts, high strength steel.

I have an organizer full of M4, 5, and 6 bolts of various sizes.

If you're really concerned about strength, there are CrMo cranks, stems, and seatposts out there as well.

I love stainless hardware. I use it all the time.

OEM's have to plan for the most hamfisted of "mechanics" and plan accordingly

@bikemig, on your fork threads, brass brush, a little steel wool and wd40, that's it. Hardly worth worrying about.

Thanks! That's where I was heading with this; I wanted to avoid oaxalic acid.

Pictures would better help everyone here recommend the right approach.