Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Concorde Aquila identification

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Concorde Aquila identification

Old 08-13-16, 06:27 AM
  #1  
magvold
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Concorde Aquila identification

So I just got my hands on an old Concorde Aquila as a renovation project, but I dont know a lot about old bikes. The chrome on this frame is rusty as hell, but hopefully ill be able to save it.
Which year is it from? somewhere between late 80s and early 90s i recon. It has Shimano 600 if that helps.
What kind of tubing? SL, SLX or TSX or something else? not sure of the seatpost dia unfortunately.
I threw in a few pics which will hopefully help.
BB serial: 080644

IMG_0551-min.jpg

IMG_0552-min.jpg

IMG_0553-min.jpg

IMG_0554-min.jpg

IMG_0555-min.jpg
magvold is offline  
Old 08-13-16, 06:57 AM
  #2  
T-Mar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,233
Mentioned: 647 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4710 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2,999 Times in 1,854 Posts
Shimano 600 Ultegra was released in 1988 but the dual pivot brake option wasn't available until 1991. The STI brifters were released in 1992, so the presence of down shifters suggest it's 1991, provided everything is OEM. The red bordered fork decal, if OEM, indicates SLX or TSX, as opposed to SL. The bicycle obviously needs an overhaul so removing the bottom bracket will allow you to inspect the inside of the ends of tubes to determine if it actually is SLX or TSX.
T-Mar is offline  
Old 08-13-16, 07:33 AM
  #3  
Pompiere
Senior Member
 
Pompiere's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 3,224

Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD, 197? FW Evans

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 437 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times in 366 Posts
The phrase "rode hard and put away wet" comes to mind, except it looks more like it was left outside after being rode hard. That was a nice bike, hopefully the damage is not all the way to the inside.
Pompiere is offline  
Old 08-13-16, 07:37 AM
  #4  
thinktubes 
weapons-grade bolognium
 
thinktubes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Across the street from Chicago
Posts: 6,111

Bikes: Battaglin Cromor, Ciocc Designer 84, Schwinn Superior 1981

Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 909 Post(s)
Liked 1,825 Times in 743 Posts
Probably a really good rider if you can bring it back. Oxalic acid bath would help the fork.
thinktubes is offline  
Old 08-14-16, 04:20 PM
  #5  
magvold
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Wow, thanks for all the great answers! Unfortunately it didnt get the love it deserves! The fork should be saveable, just need to get some acid. Abit unsure if the seatstay can be saved. Should i sand it down, or is there a better way to find out?

Also, what should i look for inside the tubing to get my answer?
magvold is offline  
Old 08-14-16, 05:08 PM
  #6  
T-Mar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,233
Mentioned: 647 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4710 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2,999 Times in 1,854 Posts
Originally Posted by magvold
...

Also, what should i look for inside the tubing to get my answer?
This is what the helical ridges inside SLX and TSX look like.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
Columbus SLX.jpg (86.9 KB, 110 views)
T-Mar is offline  
Old 08-14-16, 10:30 PM
  #7  
Iowegian
Senior Member
 
Iowegian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Boulder, Colo
Posts: 2,030
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
I wouldn't sand it down unless you plan to re-chrome it, in which case you will need to polish it to a 'chrome finish' before the re-chroming.
I'm not a frame-builder but I don't think that part of the seat stays takes a lot of stress or is a critical safety risk so if the remaining metal appears solid I would feel safe riding it. Oxylic acid should remove only the rusted metal and not any sound metal so get rid of the rust first and see what's left.
Iowegian is offline  
Old 08-15-16, 08:29 AM
  #8  
magvold
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Would it work to put the whole frame and fork in a acid bath, or would that ruin the paint?
magvold is offline  
Old 08-15-16, 05:19 PM
  #9  
Iowegian
Senior Member
 
Iowegian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Boulder, Colo
Posts: 2,030
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
oxalic acid will not harm the paint. Decals...depends but usually OK, too. Search the forums for more details and tips on how to do it.
Iowegian is offline  
Old 08-19-16, 01:16 PM
  #10  
magvold
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey guys, just wanted to give you an update on how its going. I've almost stripped it down except from the cranks, as im awaiting the tools for it. Most of the parts seems to be in pretty good condition and has been cleaned up. The frame and fork is still quite rusty, but ive managed to get rid of the surface rust with steel wool. Unfortunately, the rest of the rust is on bare metal and the chrome is gone. The OA might make that dissapear if i go that route, but then I'll "need" to get it rechromed. Tips and suggestions are welcome as this is my first restoration.
Here's a few pics:

IMG_0573.jpgIMG_0577.jpg
IMG_0579.jpgIMG_0580.jpg

Last edited by magvold; 08-19-16 at 01:32 PM.
magvold is offline  
Old 08-19-16, 10:09 PM
  #11  
shuru421
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 727
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 270 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times in 17 Posts
find a new fork on eBay if possible? are you using a power tool to try and get that rust off? a simple dremel with a wire brush attachment could work too.
shuru421 is offline  
Old 08-20-16, 12:51 AM
  #12  
magvold
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That is an option if i find one, but im trying to keep the cost down and id like to have it original even if that means it'll have some wear and tear.
At this point ive only used steel wool by hand as im unsure of using powertools. Wouldnt it scratch the chrome/paint?
magvold is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
billnuke1
Classic & Vintage
5
11-29-20 01:23 AM
johndf
Classic & Vintage
10
07-02-17 09:00 PM
SteelCharlie
Classic & Vintage
17
10-07-16 11:04 AM
mscaggs
Classic & Vintage
7
04-07-10 03:23 PM
bobi.k
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
1
03-29-10 08:28 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.