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Raleigh Super Tourer - 1st full rebuild in progress

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Raleigh Super Tourer - 1st full rebuild in progress

Old 01-12-17, 01:30 PM
  #76  
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Sci guy, if you're still following this thread I wanted to mention that I sympathize with your desire to remove the big Stronglight "pants guard" that's installed in place of the outer ring. They are kind of homely.

It would be very easy to do. All you need to do it unbolt the guard and both chainrings--the small chainring will be set off from the outer one with spacers. Then hang up the pants guard from a nail somewhere and bolt the rings back on, with the big ring in the outer position. You won't need the spacers anymore, and you can re-use the existing double chainring bolts unless they're too rusty or stripped.

Since you'll be removing the original spindle when you service the bottom bracket (or have someone do it for you) it would be no additional effort to replace the original spindle--which is probably a 123mm--with a 118 mm spindle, which is the one you want for the standard double configuration with the big ring in the outer position.

118 spindles are not at all hard to find. Your local bike co-op may have one. They also turn up all the time on ebay--here's one listed now:

VINTAGE Stronglight 118mm Spindle for Bottom Brackets | eBay

If that's too much trouble I think I have a 118 here somewhere, and I'd be happy to trade it to you for the original spindle. The original is the correct size for triple conversions, which is something I do fairly often.
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Old 01-12-17, 01:54 PM
  #77  
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I am still following, and will refer back here often when I finally get down to the nitty gritty and begin work - money is tight right now and I can't really dive into it right now.
Thanks for the suggestion - but now that y'all have taught me what a unique gem this is I've reconsidered and am going to probably try to keep it as true to original as I can. I still may remove the chainguard because I found it kind of ugly from the get-go, but I'll make that decision on the fly lol.

I'm really looking forward to working on this over the course of the year. I'll post back when I get to doing things here and there. And still would appreciate any further thoughts/suggestions for parts/pieces/etc y'all have!
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Old 01-12-17, 08:45 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
I am still following, and will refer back here often when I finally get down to the nitty gritty and begin work - money is tight right now and I can't really dive into it right now.
Thanks for the suggestion - but now that y'all have taught me what a unique gem this is I've reconsidered and am going to probably try to keep it as true to original as I can. I still may remove the chainguard because I found it kind of ugly from the get-go, but I'll make that decision on the fly lol.

I'm really looking forward to working on this over the course of the year. I'll post back when I get to doing things here and there. And still would appreciate any further thoughts/suggestions for parts/pieces/etc y'all have!

Yeah, good for you. Don't rush things. It's kind of fun to have a project waiting for you to have the time and inclination to do it.
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Old 01-13-17, 08:38 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
[...]

I'm really looking forward to working on this over the course of the year. I'll post back when I get to doing things here and there. And still would appreciate any further thoughts/suggestions for parts/pieces/etc y'all have!
Some thoughts going forward.

That's a very cool old bike I don't think you should change anything that doesn't need to be changed unless you have a good reason related to function.

If you need professional assistance, go to Daniel Boone bicycle south of downtown. They've been there since the 70s, or earlier, and have all the tools necessary to do anything. They are the only shop in Houston that I know of that knows how to install a threaded headset from scratch on a new frame, for example. I'm sure they will be able to remove the Stronglight crank in short order.

I'm in Houston and can offer some advice and assistance if you and your friend find something that doesn't make sense. I'm sure that you guys will probably figure it all out, but I'm retired and it's no imposition.

I have a truing stand and we can evaluate your rims/wheels -- probably want to keep them if possible as those are nice hubs. If you wanted to rebuild the wheels on those hubs, we could do that too -- it's fun.

I have several sets of Huret downtube shifters that came off Raleigh bikes from 74/75 that would work. They are probably not as nice as the ones people used with Jubilee derailleurs, but they work. You can have a set for free. They're a little nasty but will clean up probably as well or better than the stem shifters that are on the bike.

If you want to try the old Suntour bar end shifters that were popular back then, I have a set you can borrow as I haven't used them in 20 years, but might like to try some day.

The coolest shifter option would probably be a set of Simplex retro-friction, but that's not cheap.

As you note, we don't need a lot of big gears in Houston. If you can find a Sun Tour ultra-six freewheel (6 cogs in the space of 5), you can turn your bike into a 12 speed with no bending or anything. They came with a large cog of 24 or 28, maybe other options. Combine the narrow six freewheel with a modern chain, and shifting should be pretty good. Speaking of freewheels, I probably have the remover necessary for your bike, takes about a minute to do.

The hoods on the brake levers very well may survive. I have a pair exactly like those that were on a bike that looked like it had spent a lot of time outside and they are ok though a little stained. Get them warm before you try to remove them -- hot water in the sink should do. Clean with dish soap and a moderately stiff brush -- like what you might use when washing dishes.
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Old 01-13-17, 10:48 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by desconhecido View Post
Some thoughts going forward.

That's a very cool old bike I don't think you should change anything that doesn't need to be changed unless you have a good reason related to function.

If you need professional assistance, go to Daniel Boone bicycle south of downtown. They've been there since the 70s, or earlier, and have all the tools necessary to do anything. They are the only shop in Houston that I know of that knows how to install a threaded headset from scratch on a new frame, for example. I'm sure they will be able to remove the Stronglight crank in short order.

I'm in Houston and can offer some advice and assistance if you and your friend find something that doesn't make sense. I'm sure that you guys will probably figure it all out, but I'm retired and it's no imposition.

I have a truing stand and we can evaluate your rims/wheels -- probably want to keep them if possible as those are nice hubs. If you wanted to rebuild the wheels on those hubs, we could do that too -- it's fun.

I have several sets of Huret downtube shifters that came off Raleigh bikes from 74/75 that would work. They are probably not as nice as the ones people used with Jubilee derailleurs, but they work. You can have a set for free. They're a little nasty but will clean up probably as well or better than the stem shifters that are on the bike.

If you want to try the old Suntour bar end shifters that were popular back then, I have a set you can borrow as I haven't used them in 20 years, but might like to try some day.

The coolest shifter option would probably be a set of Simplex retro-friction, but that's not cheap.

As you note, we don't need a lot of big gears in Houston. If you can find a Sun Tour ultra-six freewheel (6 cogs in the space of 5), you can turn your bike into a 12 speed with no bending or anything. They came with a large cog of 24 or 28, maybe other options. Combine the narrow six freewheel with a modern chain, and shifting should be pretty good. Speaking of freewheels, I probably have the remover necessary for your bike, takes about a minute to do.

The hoods on the brake levers very well may survive. I have a pair exactly like those that were on a bike that looked like it had spent a lot of time outside and they are ok though a little stained. Get them warm before you try to remove them -- hot water in the sink should do. Clean with dish soap and a moderately stiff brush -- like what you might use when washing dishes.
Wow thank you for all of this.
I've met about 5 or 6 people in Houston through the forums, and it's always great - we've done some t-shirt rides together and whatnot. I've not been to Boone cycles but have heard a lot about it. I may check them out for some parts now that I know they can specialize in an older bike like this.
My buddy has a truing stand as well, and is the kind of person who does all his maintenance (he also used to work in a bike shop) so I think we'll be good to go to start with.

I think I recall someone mentioning here that I couldn't use the current stem shifters as downtube shifters - but I might have to go back and re-read the thread, so I might take you up on this Raleigh shifters - but I was also going to eventually ask for suggestions on where to buy nice (but not expensive) shifters. I found some at velo-orange, but everything they have is $$$.

Where are you located in HTX? I'm out in energy corridor.
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Old 01-13-17, 05:10 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
I think I recall someone mentioning here that I couldn't use the current stem shifters as downtube shifters - but I might have to go back and re-read the thread, so I might take you up on this Raleigh shifters - but I was also going to eventually ask for suggestions on where to buy nice (but not expensive) shifters. I found some at velo-orange, but everything they have is $$$.

Where are you located in HTX? I'm out in energy corridor.
I'm in the Heights very near the intersection of I10 and I45 on Houston Avenue just south of the Main St Houston Avenue intersection. Very easy to get to from I10.

I go out to the "Energy Corridor" occasionally to deposit trapped opossums in Bear Creek Park. I've got a sign on my trap that says, "Free trip to Bear Creek Park, Lunch included."

I'll attach a picture of the bike that the shifters I'm talking about came on. The bike is destined for an SA hub conversion so I don't need the shifters. I looked at them earlier today and the chrome is a bit pitted but that's the case with almost all 70s era Huret shifters -- probably the stem mounted ones on your Raleigh included. The DT shifters, as you can tell in the pic, are really long so if you're operating at the end, you can be pretty precise. For run of the mill DT friction shifters, I think they're as good as about anything from the 70s. The Simplex Retrofriction, which I've never experienced, are supposed to be the best. The Suntour ratcheting friction were probably the next best.

I'll PM you with my real world contact info. You can drop me an email if you want to try the Huret shifters.
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Old 01-30-17, 12:02 PM
  #82  
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Ahoy all,
This weekend I finally had a chance to look at the bike and take stuff apart. Here's what I've got so far...

Spoiler alert - lots of questions coming...

Pretty sure these are the original brake pads
I'll order some new pads/shoes online I guess.


I'm going to try to salvage these levers. What's the best way to clean them?


Here's what the bar looked like underneath that weird green spongy whatever tape


You can definitely see where it stopped...


So here's a dumb n00b question. Taking the bars out. I've always just slid them through the clamp after in unscrewing it. I've never manually forced the clamp open more than it opens on it's own (done this with my new road bike and bullhorns on my SS). Is there another way to get the bars out? Am I supposed to somehow spread the clamp more? Because the sharp curve in these bars won't let me slide it through and I couldn't get the bars off. (debating if I want to use them or get new bars - depends on if I can clean them well enough?? What would you suggest to get that weirdness off?) Is it worth it with all the damage to the bars seen here?


I also couldn't get the stem out. I unscrewed this, but couldn't get it to budge. Can someone explain this type of stem/headset combo? Since I'm leaving the stem shifters behind, I will want a new stem - what kind and size do you think I need to get?


The positioning screw on the left side is sheered off. Problem?


Here's the rear derailleur - best way to clean it? Seems to be in good working order..... I can remove it from the frame, right?
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Old 01-30-17, 12:03 PM
  #83  
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This also looks to be in pretty good shape - I'm worried the rear wheel is bent though. Hard to tell it might just be out of true.


Front derailleur - also seems to be in good working order? Also needs cleaning


Crank appears in good shape. Haven't pulled it yet to redo the bearings - that's forthcoming...


Can these be salvaged (best way to clean them?)? And more importantly, can they be used as downtube shifters? Or are those a different configuration to attached?



Here's where the cable guides are on the downtube - does this mount have to be changed to put on DT shifters? I'm a little worried about all the rust around it...


Speaking of rust - I'm a little disappointed the chrome appears to be in such bad shape. A lot of the frame looks like this actually. Is this a bad problem? Again, what's the best way to either remove the rust and clean the frame? Am I screwed and this thing is going to fall apart on me?




Here it is mostly naked


I think the wheels are in pretty good shape. Like I said I need to see if the rims are bent of just out of true. Couldn't really tell just standing in my garage.

According to Sheldon's site I need to order a 27.0 seatpost as well because I'm certainly not keeping that monstrosity that came on it

Thanks for any and all help and suggestions!
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Old 01-30-17, 12:37 PM
  #84  
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I'm going to try to salvage these levers. What's the best way to clean them?

I use orange pumice hand cleaner on those. They should clean up well - compared to true rubber hoods, they are quite robust.

So here's a dumb n00b question. Taking the bars out. I've always just slid them through the clamp after in unscrewing it. I've never manually forced the clamp open more than it opens on it's own (done this with my new road bike and bullhorns on my SS). Is there another way to get the bars out? Am I supposed to somehow spread the clamp more? Because the sharp curve in these bars won't let me slide it through and I couldn't get the bars off. (debating if I want to use them or get new bars - depends on if I can clean them well enough?? What would you suggest to get that weirdness off?) Is it worth it with all the damage to the bars seen here?

I also couldn't get the stem out. I unscrewed this, but couldn't get it to budge. Can someone explain this type of stem/headset combo? Since I'm leaving the stem shifters behind, I will want a new stem - what kind and size do you think I need to get?


I would definitely keep that stem - I think the GB is a classic. I would screw the top bolt back in, but not tight. Then tap it lightly with a hammer. If that doesn't loosen the stem, then search this site for "Stuck stem". You'll see a few dozen things to try. Those bars look fine to me. I don't believe they are anodized, so you could polish them up, if you like. The stem should slide off the bars without prying open, if you pivot it so the clamp bolt is always on the inside of a curve.

The positioning screw on the left side is sheered off. Problem?

Nope. Not really needed unless you are doing a full restoration, or are racing, and need a quick wheel change.

Here's the rear derailleur - best way to clean it? Seems to be in good working order..... I can remove it from the frame, right?

Yes - Just unbolt it. Those can be disassembled easily, soaked and cleaned.
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Old 01-30-17, 12:57 PM
  #85  
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Man, you ask a lot of questions all at once. The BIG ONE is removing the cranks/chainwheel.
1. Make sure you have the right removal tool for the Stronglight.
2. Aluminum foil and water or white vinegar should clean the chrome very well.
3. I would keep the shifters right where they are. You can always re-evaluate that later.
4. Evaporust is your friend on small parts, and it does not hurt aluminum.
5. Stem - You unscrewed the bolt all the way, so the wedge nut is still there inside the stem. I would screw it back in ASAP. There are threads here on how to deal with stuck stems.
6. Bar tape residue? Fuggedaboutit - if it will be covered with new tape.
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Old 01-30-17, 01:05 PM
  #86  
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Thanks guys - FYI I put the stem screw back in as soon as I took that pic.

I don't want to keep the shifters on the stem. I definitely want to move them to the DT.
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Old 01-30-17, 06:00 PM
  #87  
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I cleaned my Mafac brake hoods by soaking them overnight in diluted Dawn. It did what it could.
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Old 01-30-17, 06:56 PM
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Forgot to include a pic of the brakes. These also appear to be in good working order. A little rusty across the top but they flex just fine. Planning on just getting new pads for them.
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Old 01-31-17, 06:35 AM
  #89  
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The brakes are an early version of dual pivot side pulls. Please note that the Jubilee rear derailleur has adjustable ball bearings in the Pulleys! I found that I needed to thin out a standard cone wrench to properly adjust them. The Jubilee is one of the most sought after vintage derailleurs available! If you intend to replace it, a simple adaptor washer can be made to make it play nice with more standard derailleurs. No need to modify the original Huret drop out. There are probably a few threads on this in the archives.
I think that the stock chain guard looks stunning when polished to a mirror finish! As for DT shifters, there are more than a few indexed shifters that were available on mounting bands. I have the slightly rarer 5 speed version of the Super Touer (Thanks Dave325!) that came with the TA "Cyclotouriste" style crank. There are eBay sellers that sellers that offer Huret mounting bands for DT shifters. thes can be modified ( re-tapped from its obscure 4.5 Metric to the more common 5mm metric) to work with some indexed shifters. Alternatively, these can be used make adjustable cable stops for bar end shifters or brifters.
The Cinelli sloping fork crown was also used on the top of the line Raleigh Pro model. Many, including myself, think it's one of the sexiest fork crowns ever made!
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Old 01-31-17, 10:42 AM
  #90  
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My 2 cents:

Clean the rust like others have recommended, it'll come out fine, with a nice patina.

Those adjustment screws are not like any other. The plastic stop is threaded. As long as you can put the wheel in against both stops and the wheel is centered (look for equal spacing between the rim and chain stays) they you're good to go. If not, you'll have to clamp down on the quick release pretty good so it doesn't slip.
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Old 01-31-17, 11:36 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
My 2 cents:

Clean the rust like others have recommended, it'll come out fine, with a nice patina.

Those adjustment screws are not like any other. The plastic stop is threaded. As long as you can put the wheel in against both stops and the wheel is centered (look for equal spacing between the rim and chain stays) they you're good to go. If not, you'll have to clamp down on the quick release pretty good so it doesn't slip.
Good info, thanks.
I saw the suggestions to clean the chrome and the small parts with a little rust on them - how is best to clean the rust off the tubes of the frame? I can't exactly soak it
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Old 01-31-17, 11:45 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
Good info, thanks.
I saw the suggestions to clean the chrome and the small parts with a little rust on them - how is best to clean the rust off the tubes of the frame? I can't exactly soak it
Well, actually, you can. Get one of those plastic toddler splash pools, fill it up with water, add oxalic acid, and put the frame in. Others will no doubt chime in with an "exact recipe", including rinsing.
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Old 01-31-17, 12:15 PM
  #93  
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RE the derailleurs and other small parts - the best method when they are that dirty is to soak them in solvent in a coffee can or whatever, then clean with a soft brush. You can use Simple Green (etc) if you prefer.

Alternatively, you can spray them with WD40, and then brush them and clean them with a rag. This method may take 2-3 applications to get things clean.

After cleaning the dirt and grease, polish as desired. I use Simichrome polish on both aluminum and chrome, but any paste metal polish will work.

When that's done, relube all pivot points with oil or grease. Like elcraft says, the Jubilee rear derailleur has ball bearing jockey wheels, and these will have to be overhauled like hub bearings. Careful not to loose the bb's! It is helpful to work over a clean white rag.

AFA rust - Oxalic acid in the form of Barkeeper's Friend is available in most grocery stores. Oxalic acid is also sold as one of several types of wood bleach for clearing rust stains from wood. I don't really like the aluminum foil and vinegar method for rust removal. I prefer soaking with oxalic acid for a time, and then polishing with simichrome. Naval jelly works too. Evaporust is well regarded and possibly the best option. I have no experience with it.
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Old 09-21-17, 08:14 AM
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I'd like to revive this zombie thread, if only to see if the OP has survived the hurricane, and if so, some pix of the bike to see what it looks like now.
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Old 04-29-19, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
I'd like to revive this zombie thread, if only to see if the OP has survived the hurricane, and if so, some pix of the bike to see what it looks like now.
Oh hai. I just remembered I made this thread when I originally was going to get this bike. Fun to read it back through and see how what I originally wanted changed so much over the course of 2 years to what I am doing with it now.
To answer your question - yes we survived Hurricane Harvey - but our entire downstairs did not. Our whole neighborhood was flooded after the Army CoE began releasing water from the reservoirs. We had ~4ft inside the house, in addition to the ~6ft of water it took to rise up the berm our house sits on - so roughly 10+ft of water at road level. All our bikes were in the garage - they were all salvaged We had no warning. We were told by the Mayor to shelter in place, but by the time they began releasing water from the reservoirs in the middle of the night it was too late - our entire neighborhood was evacuated by boat. We stepped into a boat that was literally floating at my front door.
You can look at all my pics from the moments of the first rains, through demolishing everything downstairs, to rebuilding here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rattle...57685839213560
Here's a few:

My wife is marking the high water line with her hand in this pic. Water had come down a bit after 5 days but all our houses had water in them for 12-16 days.



This frame was hanging on the wall, up out of the water in the garage. All the components I took off it during my initial tear down were on a shelf that was also up out of the water, so everything for this bike was safe. Lost all my tools and extra parts though.

I got the bike in January of 2017. Flood happened September 2017. We spent all last year rebuilding (still are), but I decided it was finally time to do something with the bike, now 2 years later.
I gathered up all the pieces and set to cleaning them. I created a thread asking for advice and went with it.
Pics of the parts before and after cleaning can be found in this post/thread: How to clean vintage bike frame & components?
and this post: How to clean vintage bike frame & components?

Here's what she looks like right now:


I've ordered a new seat post, and new 27" wheels are coming too.
Got a Soma Brevet Randonneur Bar (cat approved) https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...bar-round-bend


Also picked up a Huret clamp for moving the shifters from the stem to the downtube. Should arrive in the next few days.

Still need to find a 5 speed freewheel, brake/shift cables, and figure out what color cable housing would look good. I can't seem to find a tan-ish color that was originally on it (see first posts) - suggestions appreciated!
I'll be adding a rear rack, and a front rack if possible.
Still need a seat too. I am thinking of Brooks B17, with the fancy brooks saddle bag too, but not sure yet.
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Old 04-29-19, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post

Still need to find a 5 speed freewheel, brake/shift cables, and figure out what color cable housing would look good. I can't seem to find a tan-ish color that was originally on it (see first posts) - suggestions appreciated!
Wow, thatsa lotta water!

Good on you for answer the most important question, "how's the bike?" ;-)

The original color of the "tani-ish" housing was white.

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Old 04-29-19, 09:15 PM
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Ah true enough - but I was referring to the colors that came on the bike when I got it - see below. This came from the daughter of a Raleigh dealer, and he switched it up for her. It had tan Carlton hoods- though cleaning them has reduced the tan to a very light tan. I suppose I was just trying to match those. Maybe they're light enough that white housing will look just fine. I thought the tan would look better agains the green & black as well, but, who am I to argue with originality, right? Is there another company that makes cable housing besides jagwire?

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Old 04-30-19, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
Ah true enough - but I was referring to the colors that came on the bike when I got it - see below. This came from the daughter of a Raleigh dealer, and he switched it up for her. It had tan Carlton hoods- though cleaning them has reduced the tan to a very light tan. I suppose I was just trying to match those. Maybe they're light enough that white housing will look just fine. I thought the tan would look better agains the green & black as well, but, who am I to argue with originality, right? Is there another company that makes cable housing besides jagwire?
...and those "tan" hoods were originally white!





Here's a catalog pic of a Grand Sport. Other Raleigh models from that time period used the same levers/hoods - they probably swapped them at some point:





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Old 04-30-19, 12:21 PM
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Also, what is with all these old Raleighs not having any water bottle mounts?

Do you think it's possible to have the frame drilled to have at least 1 set of mounts added? i did a behind the seat holder for my other one, but I don't think it'll work with the saddle/bag I have in mind.
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Old 04-30-19, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post

Do you think it's possible to have the frame drilled to have at least 1 set of mounts added? i did a behind the seat holder for my other one, but I don't think it'll work with the saddle/bag I have in mind.
Maybe drill and use a Rivnut tool?
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