I'm installing some Mavic components on a Vitus and can't figure out how to correctly install cables in the 451 levers. They are of the aero variety, and unlike modern levers there is no stop molded into the back of the hood area. Instead, the housing/ferrule slides through the hood right into the back of the pivot on the top of the metal lever. As a result the whole cable/housing assembly moves when you squeeze the lever.

Hope you can make out what is going on in the second photo, as there is simply a slot in the back that leads directly into the mechanism of the lever.

Any experience with these that you might be able to share?

Did you check out the lever bodies with the hoods taken off all the way? There might be a stop right at where the vertical "horn of the lever body....
Otherwise, check the inside of the body really good, as you might have missed the cable hosing stop hole in there. Also check the sides of the lever body in case they rout in through the sides, near the top of the levers.

I just found this from another forum from 5 years ago:

"I've come across a problem I'd forgotten about... I have a set of mavic 451 brake levers, but they require a special, larger than usual ferrule for the end of the outer brake cable to stop it pulling through the hole where it should sit. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I could use instead? The hole is just large enough to allow a standard ferrule to pass through, and is rounded, not square ended, so I guess some sort of domed ferrule is needed. "

Unfortunately, no one responded to that post.

Edit: Is it possible to use a small washer to keep it from pulling thru?

There are several Dia-Compe cable ferrules in the link below that might work.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...?category=1613

First, Vitus & Mavic is a winning combination and I support this thread. That said, I don't have any experience with these specific levers. However, I have had success on numerous occasions modifying a ferrule to fit aero levers. Sometime a cable without a ferrule slips through, or a standard ferrule wobbles at the juncture with the brake lever body/lever pivot. It's hard to tell from your photos where the cable housing meets the lever body/pivot. Nonetheless, I've found the common dome-topped ferrules used with non-aero Dia-Compe levers can be modified in a few minutes with a file to replace the missing ferrule in cases such as this. Identify where the cable goes into the lever, file the generic ferrule to a snug fit, apply a little grease and move on.

I am pretty sure this is the one you want, thanks to Dfrost for linking the page. DiaCompe used a similar system on some of their aero lever and not having those can be a real PIA. I am not sure but these could even be contract DiaCompe lever but more likey were a Modolo copy/clone of a DiaCompe lever


https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...&category=1613

[MENTION=426321]Chombi1[/MENTION] This one right?

OH you are posting pics of the project as it progresses yes?

BTW, IIRC, the brakeset was sourced by Mavic from DiaCompet and rebranded to sell as their model 451 brakeset.
You might want to do searches on DiaCompe parts too. to find the oversized (proprietary?) ferrule......

Oversize Dia Compe ferrules will fit and are available for about $10 a pair on eBay. Or you can go to your local LBS or co-op where they likely have a bunch of larger "beehive" style ferrules that can be modified with a Dremel or file to do the job.

Well, not "in progress", more like completed...

Excuse the FSA compact cranks, but there were few options - lots of steep hills around here to manage on my nearly 50-year-old legs! I'll deal with the era-unappropriateness in lieu of being able to ride it more comfortably. Maybe I could at least rub off the graphics, ha.

The clincher for me on this Vitus is the French shop decal from where the bike was originally purchased!

It looks nice but not what I was expecting, I was thinking the old 979 frame that everyone had.


Isn't Royersford down below Philly?


What are the rings? You could always play around with an old shipmano 130BCD I think you can go 38 on them and mid 40s on the outer if you can find them. An older MTB crank at 110BCD would let you go maybe 34 in the inner again mid 40s outside.


Out here in Central PA I tend to run 42/53, I never been a good spinner, but try and run a 23 or 25t in the rear for the tough stuff.

BELOW Philadelphia? There's not much south of Philadelphia, as far as PA goes. Royersford is NW of the city, about midway to Reading.

There are a lot of short and steep climbs here in the Schuylkill River Valley. The rings are 50/34t.