Ashtabula Cranks and Super Sport
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6,944
Likes: 853
From: Wilmette, IL
Ashtabula Cranks and Super Sport
I know, real boat anchors.
I have a 70 something Schwinn Super Sport. Not for the weight weenies. But it sure rides nice. The previous owner installed a single ring cotterless crank with the BB converter doohickie.
So, looking at Super Sports from the 60's I see a couple different chainring designs were used for the Ashtabula cranks. And they look much better than the 70's double chainring with chainguard monstrosity that was standard on my Super Sport. Thinking of converting back to Ashtabula with a nice chainring design. The 5 pin "Sprint" model looks particularly nice. With the big diameter BB I would think the bearings would be smooth runners. And the ease of maintenance is certainly a plus. What think ye?
I have a 70 something Schwinn Super Sport. Not for the weight weenies. But it sure rides nice. The previous owner installed a single ring cotterless crank with the BB converter doohickie.
So, looking at Super Sports from the 60's I see a couple different chainring designs were used for the Ashtabula cranks. And they look much better than the 70's double chainring with chainguard monstrosity that was standard on my Super Sport. Thinking of converting back to Ashtabula with a nice chainring design. The 5 pin "Sprint" model looks particularly nice. With the big diameter BB I would think the bearings would be smooth runners. And the ease of maintenance is certainly a plus. What think ye?
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,347
Likes: 21
Bikes: Fillet-brazed Schwinns
The Sprint double plateau crankset was used from '64 through '67 and not only looks good, it has 39-50T rings vs. the 39-52T rings on the '68 and up crankset. A chainguard was standard on these only in '67 but it can easily be removed. This one is from '65 thus w/o guard:

Same crank in '67 w/guard:

Same crank in '67 w/guard:
#5
.
...when I converted mine, I had to do a little grinding in the BB shell to open it up enough for the conversion unit to fit where the cups came out. Mostly at the weld in the shell, which did not appear to be cast, rather formed and welded. I'm not 100% certain that the cups I took out with the Ashtabula crank would now fit tightly enough in the shell to convert it back, but it's possible they would.
All you can do is try, really, and see if it works.
...when I converted mine, I had to do a little grinding in the BB shell to open it up enough for the conversion unit to fit where the cups came out. Mostly at the weld in the shell, which did not appear to be cast, rather formed and welded. I'm not 100% certain that the cups I took out with the Ashtabula crank would now fit tightly enough in the shell to convert it back, but it's possible they would.
All you can do is try, really, and see if it works.
#6
Mr. Anachronism


Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 293
From: Somewhere west of Tobie's
Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff
The Sprint double plateau crankset was used from '64 through '67 and not only looks good, it has 39-50T rings vs. the 39-52T rings on the '68 and up crankset. A chainguard was standard on these only in '67 but it can easily be removed. This one is from '65 thus w/o guard:


Nice looking crank in the mid 60's!
I like the earlier ones too, but that big 2nd ring won't help any climbs.
Here's an aftermarket triple that might not look bad without the guard. Wouldn't it be sweet if the bolt holes were the same as on that Sprint?
__________________
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
Last edited by Hudson308; 12-14-17 at 07:37 PM.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,617
Likes: 10
From: Richmond VA area
Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.
I always thought it'd be cool if someone brought out a Ti one-piece crank. But yeah I think your idea is fine, OP. If I had a bike with one-piece cranks I'd prolly just keep 'em, rather than going the adaptor and crank swap route.
#8
) There are probably better 1/2" pedals around now.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,617
Likes: 10
From: Richmond VA area
Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.
Yeah I didnt think of that, could be an issue alright.
#10
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,835
Likes: 1,816
From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
1/2" clipless pedals were produced briefly, roughly 20 years ago, during an "overlap" phase in the BMX world where 1-piece cranks were still used by some fairly serious BMX riders.
Clipless pedals arrived just as the 1-piece cranks were being phased out on mid-level and better bikes, so production of the pedals ended almost as soon as it had started.
I've located a few pair of the Wellgo-made, double-sided "Clipless BMX" pedals for use on spirited rides on my Varsity and Supersport bikes over the years, they still turn up but are increasingly rare today. I look for these pedals mis-represented as regular MTB pedals and often as not find them sold under the Bulletproof brand.
Clipless pedals arrived just as the 1-piece cranks were being phased out on mid-level and better bikes, so production of the pedals ended almost as soon as it had started.
I've located a few pair of the Wellgo-made, double-sided "Clipless BMX" pedals for use on spirited rides on my Varsity and Supersport bikes over the years, they still turn up but are increasingly rare today. I look for these pedals mis-represented as regular MTB pedals and often as not find them sold under the Bulletproof brand.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 6,280
Likes: 612
From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
#12
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,617
Likes: 10
From: Richmond VA area
Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.
Those pedals posted above are really cool btw, never seen those before.
#13
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,416
Likes: 1,880
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I kind of like the original Varsinental cranks with the Simplex 3-to-6-bolt adapter set. They could take standard steel or aluminum European chainrings such as these:
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#14
Ashtabula cranks are indeed very easy to maintain.
I absolutely love the SR tubular cr-mo cranks I installed on my Dahon. They are light, smooth and I love the way they look:

I absolutely love the SR tubular cr-mo cranks I installed on my Dahon. They are light, smooth and I love the way they look:

Last edited by devinfan; 12-16-17 at 07:08 AM.
#15
Senior Member


Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 1,141
From: Southern California
Bikes: 1981 Univega Super Special, '80s Custom Chris Pauley, 1972 Fuji 'The Finest'
Ashtabula cranks are indeed very easy to maintain.
I absolutely love the SR tubular cr-mo cranks I installed on my Dahon. They are light, smooth and I love the way they look.
https://i.imgur.com/hfOonkD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VRy62zu.jpg
I absolutely love the SR tubular cr-mo cranks I installed on my Dahon. They are light, smooth and I love the way they look.
https://i.imgur.com/hfOonkD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VRy62zu.jpg
Also, how do you like the folding bike? Good for commuting, or...?
#16
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6,944
Likes: 853
From: Wilmette, IL
Ashtabula cranks are indeed very easy to maintain.
I absolutely love the SR tubular cr-mo cranks I installed on my Dahon. They are light, smooth and I love the way they look.
https://i.imgur.com/hfOonkD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VRy62zu.jpg
I absolutely love the SR tubular cr-mo cranks I installed on my Dahon. They are light, smooth and I love the way they look.
https://i.imgur.com/hfOonkD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VRy62zu.jpg
#17
Disco Infiltrator




Joined: May 2013
Posts: 15,350
Likes: 3,550
From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
The monstrosity shifts great, fwiw, having a ramp pressed into the big ring; and the bash guard covers the FD completely, no danger to shoelaces. That and the turkey levers and stem shifters make it a bike to ride with zero preparation, ideal for commuting. I’d have kept mine but I convinced myself I wanted less weight, indexing, and braze-ons.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
#18
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,617
Likes: 10
From: Richmond VA area
Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.
Ashtabula cranks are indeed very easy to maintain.
I absolutely love the SR tubular cr-mo cranks I installed on my Dahon. They are light, smooth and I love the way they look.
https://i.imgur.com/hfOonkD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VRy62zu.jpg
I absolutely love the SR tubular cr-mo cranks I installed on my Dahon. They are light, smooth and I love the way they look.
https://i.imgur.com/hfOonkD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VRy62zu.jpg
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 6,280
Likes: 612
From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
Wow indeed. Those SR tubular cr-mo cranks ^^^ are really interesting. I had no idea they existed. Look perfect for a utility bike like the Dahon. Can you buy them or is it an OEM only thing? I'm going to have to look into those.
For a while now, I've been waiting for someone to make a racing cr-mo hollow crank, like the old Bullseyes. Press fit BBs and master links trickled into road bikes, why not those too... In fact there are some bullseye type cranks in Ti made in Germany or something.
exmechanic89 - Yeah I remember some fancier ashtabula type bmx cranks. Mostly they were just polished a bit more. Some were cr-mo though. It might be pointed out that the modern 2 piece hollow road crank was originally developed for BMX.
For a while now, I've been waiting for someone to make a racing cr-mo hollow crank, like the old Bullseyes. Press fit BBs and master links trickled into road bikes, why not those too... In fact there are some bullseye type cranks in Ti made in Germany or something.
exmechanic89 - Yeah I remember some fancier ashtabula type bmx cranks. Mostly they were just polished a bit more. Some were cr-mo though. It might be pointed out that the modern 2 piece hollow road crank was originally developed for BMX.
#20
I bought the SR tubulars on eBay, and they significantly lightened the bike. The SR cranks are 660 grams, which sounds like a lot until you realize it includes spindle and crank bolts effectively.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vincev
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
28
11-07-23 08:27 PM
jorglueke
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
7
10-14-16 12:20 AM
ennchicago
Classic & Vintage
21
05-30-13 11:17 AM






