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Threadless Conversion Headset

Old 01-20-20, 03:43 PM
  #126  
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Many of those threads “down” farther on the steerer have never seen a headset nut, and they are rough.

I also don’t think they were cut all that precise, relative to the Innicycle.

I sprayed my steerers with WD40 and ran a headset locknut up and down all the threads a few times. It got easier each time. Only when I was satisfied it was “free and clear” did I apply any kind of force to the Innicycle stem.

Worked fine. I’m about to order another for an Ironman.
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Old 01-21-20, 04:13 AM
  #127  
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Concentric threads

joejack951 RobbieTunes Thank you for the help on this!

There was a small amount of corrosion inside the fork steerer tube, but none close enough to the thread end that I could feel it with my index finger (almost twice as long as the section that goes inside the steerer). I cleaned it out with a rust remover (that I have used to great effect on the same frame) and a rag anyway. I also ran a threaded headset locknut over the threads and found no roughness at the level that the innicycle headset was binding at. There was a little a bit lower but that was sorted out.

It is now turning 4 1/2 turns (1 more than it was, I got it wrong in the original post) and binding at the same spot every rotation. The binding gets worse as it goes in further, to the point where I can't turn it anymore and I am worried about damaging the aluminium threads in the headset (I haven't used a stem for extra leverage yet).

...now for the good bit ... joejack951 I think you are right that the problem is a concentric steerer tube. The wall of the steerer tube looks slightly thinner on one side, though it's hard to tell because of the thread starting point ... however calipers confirm this hypothesis ... the wall of the steerer tube ranges in thickness from 1.58-1.96mm! Do you think this is enough to make a difference to the fit, or do you reckon that the problem lies elsewhere?

Thanks again for the help!
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Old 01-21-20, 08:52 AM
  #128  
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CohenS That amount of eccentricity could certainly be the cause. There is some wiggle room between the components being fit together (threads of innicycle, steerer tube, and innicycle quill) but not much. Nominal steerer tube thickness should be 1.59mm so those high spots at 1.96mm are the issue. I'd suggest the following:

1. See if there's some obvious burr causing the high spot and do you best to remove/minimize it. Recheck fit.
2. If it's still binding, you have my permission to clamp a stem on (down near the base so as to grab the upper race along with the main quill) and add a little more torque. If it rips it apart, I'm to blame and will replace it with something that we collectively decide will work (modified in some way) or refund you if there's no clear path forward.
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Old 01-21-20, 02:43 PM
  #129  
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Thanks joejack951. The problem is not with a burr inside the steerer tube. More than half of the steerer tube is at least 1.8mm thick, so it just comes down to badly manufactured fork. Thank you for the offer to replace it if the threads are stripped. I haven't actually installed the headset yet, but once I paint my frame and install the cups i'll use a stem to try to set the preload and update you.
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Old 01-22-20, 05:13 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
zenolee Very cool. I learned a new term: Rinko compatible. Do you plan to remove the handlebars from the stem or the stem from the adapter? Especially in the latter case it's a new-to-me 'excuse' for an innicycle conversion. You don't need to worry about resetting handlebar angle or messing with threadless headset preload. Or dealing with a greased up quill stem wedge and height adjustment.

RobbieTunes If we ever get the chance to meet in person, beers, snacks, dinner, whatever. It's on me.
I plan on removing the fork from the adapter. Once the adapter bolt is loose, I just have to twist the bottom wheel and separate the fork steerer from the adapter.

If you haven't heard of rinko, I've attached a PDF document I found online on how to Rinko
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Old 01-24-20, 07:22 AM
  #131  
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'88 Ironman to get Innicycled. Ordered via Amazon.

The price is very fair for the item's engineering, quality, precision and idea,
not sure the bike is worth it! (It is)

So, the frame gets Innicycled, other pieces get Carbonated, and the wheels get Zipped.

Should be a fun build, and then a blast to ride and discuss with other riders.
Nice "whoa, there!" factor.
I like the item, I like the trickle down of modern stuff.
The innicycle helps to catalyze that.
All fun, all the time.
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Old 01-29-20, 10:08 PM
  #132  
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joejack951 I just installed the headset, and with a little extra leverage from attaching a stem it went on no worries! Thanks for all the help. Full build pictures coming soon!
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Old 01-30-20, 12:02 PM
  #133  
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zenolee Interesting. I had no idea this existed. You'll want to make sure the cone wedge is well greased and perhaps have a solid 'tool' on hand (mallet, block of wood, shoe?) to whack the top cap in order to dislodge the wedge when you go to remove the upper portion. I like that it fits tightly in the tapered region of the quill and similarly the quill is a tight fit into the steerer, but at the same time it makes removal a little more difficult.

RobbieTunes Thanks, again!! I love the term 'Carbonated' in this context. I need to finish building more black units and get them over to Amazon...

CohenS I was prepared for the worst but that's great news. Looking forward to pictures.
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Old 01-30-20, 08:14 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
RobbieTunes Thanks, again!! I love the term 'Carbonated' in this context. I need to finish building more black units and get them over to Amazon...
Your welcome. It's half installed; the fork is at the painter getting more Ironmanned.
Looks like Zipped may fall in favor of Rolfed.
Am thinking of Aeolusing, but both that and Bontragered sound a bit creepy. Or British.
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Old 02-15-20, 01:14 AM
  #135  
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Innicycle touring build is now finished. So far the Innicycle is holding up great, although it would have been really helpful to have an extra 100mm or so of steerer in order to get the bars up high enough with a regular stem. I instead resorted to the Velo Orange Cigne stem to jack the bars up nice and high, which worked out okay, if a little wacky.




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Old 02-15-20, 08:46 AM
  #136  
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CohenS Funny how things turn out, when I conceived of this headset my main focus was performance and aesthetics: lightweight, stiff, losing that ugly locknut, lowest possible stem height. As it turns out, you like many others are going the complete opposite direction with it, using it to gain height presumably without giving up much, if any, stiffness versus a shorter quill and definitely gaining stiffness over an extended quill. It's something I can consider for that future if that trend continues.

A parallel to this (and a plug for my other project) is that the fork thru axle conversion kits I created for the purpose of using higher end 12mm-only wheels on older 15mm forks has found its way onto many cross/gravel builds as a way of adapting 12mm-only dynamo hubs to forks of all sorts, including Lauf Grits. Definitely not what I had in mind but I'm enjoying making things possible for people when there was no prior option.

P.S. You'll need to link to your pictures some way other than from Google Drive. Flickr works well for me but there are plenty of other free options, too.
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Old 02-17-20, 05:25 PM
  #137  
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I'm waiting for my fork to be finished, then will finish my latest bike using the Innicycle. I've moved away from the slammed look, partly because I've moved to a smaller frame, and partly because i don't ride the drops as much, sitting up a bit more these days.

The use of modern stems on my C&V "hot rods" sort of drives and compliments the use of modern groups, along with carbon seat posts etc.

Aa a result, I can scrape 3-4 lbs from these steel platforms and get these old gems to approach their potential.

Plus, people think they're cool.
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Old 02-18-20, 04:50 PM
  #138  
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Fork from a 53cm bike, used on a 54cm bike with the Innicycle.
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