Two questions - both "use it or lose it"?
09-13-18 | 11:43 PM
#1
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From: Madison, WI USA
Two questions - both "use it or lose it"?
Sorry to throw two questions into one thread. Not even the same bike, but similar situations, and the same question about each. Question being - do I use this, or lose it?
First - Specialized RockHopper, 1989-ish I think. Thumb shifters and green/purple fade. Rigid "Direct Drive" (I think that means it's cro-mo) fork. And that's where the problem is:
Left blade has a dent about halfway down. Hard to say how it happened. Not rusted up, so I'm thinking something that happened in storage. Has an abraded, scraped look to it.
Closer shot for detail.
And a side-on shot to give an idea of the depth. Sorry about the awful focus.
==================================================================================================== ========================
Second, mid-'90s Trek MultiTrack 730. Lugged frame, so I think that puts it at about '94-'95. This one has a gouge in the DS seat stay, right at the dropout. No doubt from prolonged chain rub:
Appears to be about 1/2 mm deep, but that's a wild-@$$ guess..
Here's a tighter shot, if that helps establish depth.
Extreme close-up to gauge the depth.
So, question in both cases is, use it or lose it? Do I keep that ^ frame, or that ^^^ fork, or are they done for? Any repair options in either case?
First - Specialized RockHopper, 1989-ish I think. Thumb shifters and green/purple fade. Rigid "Direct Drive" (I think that means it's cro-mo) fork. And that's where the problem is:
Left blade has a dent about halfway down. Hard to say how it happened. Not rusted up, so I'm thinking something that happened in storage. Has an abraded, scraped look to it.
Closer shot for detail.
And a side-on shot to give an idea of the depth. Sorry about the awful focus.
==================================================================================================== ========================
Second, mid-'90s Trek MultiTrack 730. Lugged frame, so I think that puts it at about '94-'95. This one has a gouge in the DS seat stay, right at the dropout. No doubt from prolonged chain rub:
Appears to be about 1/2 mm deep, but that's a wild-@$$ guess..
Here's a tighter shot, if that helps establish depth.
Extreme close-up to gauge the depth.So, question in both cases is, use it or lose it? Do I keep that ^ frame, or that ^^^ fork, or are they done for? Any repair options in either case?
09-13-18 | 11:51 PM
#2
I AM AI
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2008 S-Works Roubaix SL, 1979 Raleigh Comp GS, 1978 Schwinn Volare
I wouldn't fear for my life riding either. It's steel.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
09-14-18 | 03:28 AM
#3
Banned.
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Cambridge UK
Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes
That's why you can buy tiny cans of paint. Touch of paint to protect the steel and zoom.
09-14-18 | 06:52 AM
#4
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
Ditto
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
09-14-18 | 07:23 AM
#5
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From: Saigon - South Vietnam
Bikes: Saronni Colnago 1982; Battaglin 1982, Centurion Lemans RS 1978, 3Rensho Katana 1978, C. Borghi Olympia 1980, 3Rensho Athlete 1980's, Holdsworth 1980's and more...
IMO use it with some touch up!
09-14-18 | 06:56 PM
#6
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From: Madison, WI USA
Thanks y'all. Just fishing for some reassurance, I guess. Gotta love old steel. The 730 is a bit (yawn), but the 'Hopper has that wicked fade. It's still "shed fresh" (i.e. dusty/cruddy). We'll clean it up this weekend and I'll post some pics. My wife's an artist, so I'm confident she can match up both colors (sans the metal flake, alas).
09-15-18 | 06:12 AM
#7
feros ferio
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
A used RockHopper of about that vintage was my elder son's first adult bicycle, and he still has it.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
09-21-18 | 07:48 PM
#9
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From: AU, MY, SG & ZZZzzz...
but worth taking a peek at OPI counter... their colour range beats the touchup rack at my local autoparts
09-22-18 | 12:39 AM
#11
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From: PDX
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
09-22-18 | 02:36 AM
#12
verktyg
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From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: Current favorites: 1988 Peugeot Birraritz, 1984 Gitane Super Corsa, 1980s DeRosa, 1981 Bianchi Campione Del Mondo, 1992 Paramount OS, 1988 Colnago Technos, 1985 RalieghUSA SBDU Team Pro
The Stump Jumper is over engineered so I wouldn't worry about the damage.
Ditto on the Trek.
Take a file and remove a little of the metal off of the inside of the seat stay at the dropout for chain clearance. I've been doing that for years. Did it on all of the frames that I built back in the 70's, never saw a problem.
I had to file chain clearance on the seat stay when I put a 6 speed narrow freewheel on my 1971 Motobecane Grand Record. The chain would catch shifting off the 13T sprocket. The bottom picture shows how much of the stay I needed to file off for adequate clearance. That's not a particularly highly stressed point as most of the forces are going up into the seat stay rather then laterally loading plus there's adequate metal remaining. You can see in the vent hole how thick the tubing is at the bottom of the seat stay.
Ditto on the Trek.
Take a file and remove a little of the metal off of the inside of the seat stay at the dropout for chain clearance. I've been doing that for years. Did it on all of the frames that I built back in the 70's, never saw a problem.
I had to file chain clearance on the seat stay when I put a 6 speed narrow freewheel on my 1971 Motobecane Grand Record. The chain would catch shifting off the 13T sprocket. The bottom picture shows how much of the stay I needed to file off for adequate clearance. That's not a particularly highly stressed point as most of the forces are going up into the seat stay rather then laterally loading plus there's adequate metal remaining. You can see in the vent hole how thick the tubing is at the bottom of the seat stay.
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Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
09-22-18 | 04:24 AM
#13
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Madison, WI
^ Alternatively, put a washer on the axle of the drive side to space that drop-out over a tiny bit rather than file away the paint and frame... You could put the washer between the cone and locking nut if you’d rather not have it loose on the axle.
09-22-18 | 05:44 AM
#14
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From: GWN
Much better solution than taking a File to the Chainstays. And Washers are available in a multitude of widths.
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