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Headset Mounted Cable Hanger
I saw that my ‘grail cable yoke’ thread was bumped up today- and it got me to thinking... What are the fancy-pants options for a 1” threaded headset mounted cable hanger? I’ve used the quick release cable hangers, but it occurred to me that most of my brakes either have QRs or don’t need QRs. What’s out there? |
What would make a cable-hanger "fancy-pants?" I'm satisfied with the standard Dia-Compe hanger:
http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/cp-hanger.jpg |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...73f83bb6b2.jpg
My favorite Not the greatest picture. This one has a quick release and adjuster . That makes it real nice when running wider tires |
Originally Posted by hazetguy
(Post 20752231)
Does this fall into the 'fancy-pants' category? (pic taken from an ebay auction)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec114894f4.jpg I’ve got one, but it doesn’t have the headset nut, it doesn’t clamp tight enoug around the stem- The 1990 Miyata 1000LT came with a similar unit. Thank You! |
What’s everyone using for aero brake routing? Does the DC quick-release sit low enough to give a good angle for the brake cable? O |
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 20752176)
What would make a cable-hanger "fancy-pants?" I'm satisfied with the standard Dia-Compe hanger:
http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/cp-hanger.jpg I like having the adjustment ferrule... |
Originally Posted by jpaschall
(Post 20752271)
What’s everyone using for aero brake routing? Does the DC quick-release sit low enough to give a good angle for the brake cable? O https://www.bikeforums.net/19458551-post5.html |
Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
(Post 20752285)
I have used a noodle in cases where the bend got tight. |
Originally Posted by due ruote
(Post 20752302)
As those pics suggest, it will depend on how much quill you have exposed more than anything. I have used a noodle in cases where the bend got tight. True. |
Around 2000 I picked up a HS hanger designed for low aero braked HBs. It was a nice aluminum hanger, good black epoxy paint and an 1 1/2" brass tube that bent more than 45 degrees. The tube had the protrusion to fit into their (or any other) hanger and a belled out opposite end for the cable. I was running a very long and low quill and bent it even further, to nearly 90 degrees. The tube has seen continuous use on my winter/rain/city bike.
I did the additional bend very carefully so as to not bind on the cable. It was years ago and I don't remember the details but I think I bent a spoke to fit inside the tube, bent it and pulled out the spoke (with some difficulty as I recall). The day will come that the cable will wear through the tube but I think I have perhaps 20,000 miles on it so I have no complaints. And every time I ride that bike, I get reminded it has "stoppers!" (Mafac Racers and Tektro levers.) I recall getting that hanger at a Trek dealer and coming in nicely done packaging. I wish I remembered the brand. Edit: I never saw the term "noodle" applied to this part but it does fit. Ben |
https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/compon...-cable-hanger/ If you have the space on your fork steerer.. stiff solid..
https://www.paulcomp.com/wp-content/..._1-300x225.jpg If Not , You go with the Steel ones above.. (a Mafac one is on my CX bike) Its the drop that helps when you use aero brake cable routing . but up and over the stem works too .. opens up a tight bend in the housing .... |
The Paul is definitely something to think about.
However, Just when I thought I found exactly what I was looking for- I find it's sold out... https://global.bluelug.com/fairweath...er-thread.html https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0237ff784d.jpg I would have gotten away with it too, if it hadn't been for those meddling kids. |
Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
(Post 20752724)
The Paul is definitely something to think about.
However, Just when I thought I found exactly what I was looking for- I find it's sold out... https://global.bluelug.com/fairweath...er-thread.html I would have gotten away with it too, if it hadn't been for those meddling kids. |
That Paul would do my CX Axis right! Almost 50 before shipping, yeah! |
Tektro - About $12 on Amazon - Bell Bikes.
It has an inside diameter of 25 mm so I made a shim using copper pipe to fit the 22 mm stem adapter that is shown. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...08a4967038.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4af1f8c086.jpg |
Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
(Post 20752724)
The Paul is definitely something to think about.
However, Just when I thought I found exactly what I was looking for- I find it's sold out... https://global.bluelug.com/fairweath...er-thread.html https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0237ff784d.jpg I would have gotten away with it too, if it hadn't been for those meddling kids. |
I got this from Nashbar for a couple of bucks when they were blowing 'em out last year. Similar to the Tektro, minus the barrel adjuster. Turned out to be the wrong size, although [MENTION=479432]jlaw[/MENTION]'s shim would work as well.
I went with the simpler stamped metal type illustrated near the top of the thread. Works, although it didn't get the front brake cable loop as low as I'd like. I wanted it under the handlebar. So I may figure out a way to make the extended and angled hanger work. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cfc1c4f09a.jpg Nashbar anodized aluminum cable hanger, minus barrel adjuster. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1f64173f7a.jpg Nashbar anodized aluminum cable hanger, minus barrel adjuster. |
Here's the custom one I made for my last bike, I ended up selling it to someone who was interested, I'm thinking about making a couple more: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...41788bd4f.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3eb43ae82.jpeg -Devin |
Originally Posted by smallpox champ
(Post 20753143)
Here's the custom one I made for my last bike, I ended up selling it to someone who was interested, I'm thinking about making a couple more: -Devin |
Just drill the stem to pass the cable through. Jan Heine asked Nitto engineers if it was acceptable, they OK'd it, and he published a tutorial in Bicycle Quarterly a few years back. My Ron Cooper touring rig has a drilled Nitto Technomic Deluxe and my Vitus 979 has a drilled Cinelli 1A and I still have all my teeth. I've also done three old Sakae Ringyo stems for two of my friends. They also still have all their teeth. Drill the smallest hole you can get away with for the cable, then peel back 4mm of the outer rubber from the housing and counterbore about 3mm deep in this size. It's the only cable hanger that has negative weight and it is stiff as a rock!
Or get one of those quill MTB stems from the '90s with built-in hanger (most are ugly), or some Herse/Singer/Routens/Goeland/Charrel constructeur thingy (pretty but pricey and likely in a French size although Jack Taylor made standard 22.2 quill filet brazed aftermarket stems with cable hangers for anyone who could pay and these show up on Ebay from time to time). On bikes with a really short stem I have also hung a cable hanger meant for a seat binder from the handlebar pinch bolt. |
I got this Ritchey front brake hanger back in 1992. It's really ridged with no flex.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3306a68c6f.jpg BTW, that's a prototype King headset. verktyg :50: |
CLB fRONT Front Cable Hanger
Destroyer of myths, teller of truths, breaker of hearts... :p
Over the past few years I've seen a number of C&V aficionados especially in the CR group who are overly enthralled with the old cast aluminum CLB cable hangers, particularly the ones with the castellated teeth to fit Stronglight P3 and V4 headsets. Personal experience BITD: I tried several of these CLB hangers on my first off road bike with MAFAC cantilever brakes. Both broke before I could try them out for real. I also had several break on customer's bikes. They were poorly designed (wimpy) and the cast aluminum was too weak! 213, 213M, 213ER, 214 https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e9db4a038a.jpg The cheapest MAFAC brakes used these stamped hangers. They flex. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2a3e62a85c.jpg The better ones had these stamped hangers, thicker with reinforcing curves in the front . They flexed a lot less and came in plated steel and stainless steel versions. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...36e4d4ca3f.jpg Both Weinmann and Dia-Comp provided these stamped steel hangers with reinforcements to add rigidity. They also had versions with QRs. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1b3e78a7d8.jpg verktyg :50: |
Originally Posted by scarlson
(Post 20753262)
Just drill the stem to pass the cable through. Jan Heine asked Nitto engineers if it was acceptable, they OK'd it, and he published a tutorial in Bicycle Quarterly a few years back. My Ron Cooper touring rig has a drilled Nitto Technomic Deluxe and my Vitus 979 has a drilled Cinelli 1A and I still have all my teeth. I've also done three old Sakae Ringyo stems for two of my friends. They also still have all their teeth. Drill the smallest hole you can get away with for the cable, then peel back 4mm of the outer rubber from the housing and counterbore about 3mm deep in this size. It's the only cable hanger that has negative weight and it is stiff as a rock!
Or get one of those quill MTB stems from the '90s with built-in hanger (most are ugly), or some Herse/Singer/Routens/Goeland/Charrel constructeur thingy (pretty but pricey and likely in a French size although Jack Taylor made standard 22.2 quill filet brazed aftermarket stems with cable hangers for anyone who could pay and these show up on Ebay from time to time). On bikes with a really short stem I have also hung a cable hanger meant for a seat binder from the handlebar pinch bolt. Simple, rigid and, unfortunately, inflexible if you need to adjust the stem height. Changing the stem height requires redoing the front brake cable. PITA. My Univega's original stem was already low as it would go and that was fine for a couple of years. But as my neck and back flexibility improved I wanted the stem lower to get a bit more aero for long slogs into headwinds (like Wednesday night -- 12 miles home into 20 mph headwind with gusts). So recently I swapped to the 0 angle stem I'd taken off my road bike. Put a stamped cable hanger in the headset. Now I can adjust the stem as desired without affecting the cable. Only problem is I want the front brake cable loop under the albatross handlebar like the rest of the cables. So eventually I'll try a different cable hanger, maybe one of the Tektros that bolts to the canti brake bolt. But once you've settled on a setup you like the cable hanger through stem trick would be fine. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2ecfe48809.jpg My Univega last year, original stem with built-in cable hanger (counterbored holes). Since then I've switched to a zero angle stem, stamped metal cable hanger in the headset and albatross bar. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4eb4551563.jpg Overhead view, same stem, different bar. Now it has a zero angle stem from my road bike, stamped cable hanger in the headset. |
Originally Posted by smallpox champ
(Post 20753143)
Here's the custom one I made for my last bike, I ended up selling it to someone who was interested, I'm thinking about making a couple more: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...41788bd4f.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3eb43ae82.jpeg -Devin |
Originally Posted by Kabuki12
(Post 20752190)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...73f83bb6b2.jpg
My favorite Not the greatest picture. This one has a quick release and adjuster . That makes it real nice when running wider tires Do you also have them crossed under the downtube? |
I found a 22.2mm aluminum one on ebay, it's great in a situation where you can't put one in the headset stack...
|
Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
(Post 20753748)
BTW- I love the way you’ve got your shift cables routed! Do you also have them crossed under the downtube? Maybe this will help? |
I've had this question too. There really isn't a lot out there for traditional headset mounting on a 1" steer tube. Many vintage bikes have only enough room on the steer tube and headset stack to allow for a thin steel vintage type cable hanger. This limits you to:
- Vintage MAFAC. They work fine, but do flex a bit. There are two models, as verktyg mentioned, but even the fancier one flexes, albeit less. Looks elegant. - Dia Compe / Weinmann: IMO these are probably the best of the vintage type. Not exactly elegant appearance, but they are stiffer than MAFAC and the QR can be handy. I find that the built in QR of may TRP RRL levers isn't quite enough when running GP4000 28c tires on A23 rims. - generic knock offs of the above. Rivendell sells a generic aluminum one that might be a bit stiffer than vintage, if you have a couple extra mm. - A stem with a cable stop. This was once very common. Not great if you fiddle with your position a lot, but for those that tend to leave stem height alone, it's an elegant way to go. People used to drill holes in aluminum quill stems. I think I'd go cro-mo with this method, because I can't help myself when I see a gravel road when I'm on my touring bike. ;) For a more modern bike or if you have just a tiny bit more steer tube and headset stack to work with, that Fairweather/Nitto hanger looks great to me. Very cool design. FWIW I've ordered stuff directly from Fairweather, and it has been no problem. I've eyeballed those stops before, and thought about putting the 1 1/8" version on my Mercian, along with a matching nickel finished Nitto stem. It'd be a nice way to get a more retro look. Never did it though, since my current setup is fine. There are of course many modern aluminum stops if you've got 1 1/8" threadless set up, and they work well. The extra stiffness gives more of a precise feel to the brakes. |
Suntour
I'm also using the Suntour - black that came stock on the bike.
I finally found a set of Odyssey Straddle Rods in the longer size that I'm going to replace the cable with. I still don't know why...I guess I always thought they were "Cool"! Sorry for the blurry pic - phone's camera isn't that great. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cde551d0e1.jpg |
Got this one from Velo-Orange some time ago, I added a threaded insert for the adjustment screw.
It's stout but needs about 6mm of steerer tube. https://vgy.me/xWHSOE.jpg |
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