More Silca Help?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 872
Likes: 601
From: Concord, NC
Bikes: 1984 Bianchi Tipo Corsa, 1985 Cannondale SM600 (24/26)
More Silca Help?
Hi. I have an old Silca Floor pump that has a head that I do not see anywhere. It can be changed from Presta to Schraeder by reversing which side of the central barrel is facing "out". Top cap is unscrewed, barrel flipped, cap screwed back on. My problem is that it is leaking at that "O"-ring which seats into the "bottom" cap. I cannot find mention of this part anywhere including Silca's Site, and it feels like it will crumble apart if I try to remove it to match it up.to a new one.....where??
Can anyone point me in the right direction towards a fix for this? I would really not want to buy a new head if I can get away with either a rubber ring or that whole ring-hose-fitting bit.
Thanks!

Can anyone point me in the right direction towards a fix for this? I would really not want to buy a new head if I can get away with either a rubber ring or that whole ring-hose-fitting bit.
Thanks!

#2
Bianchi Goddess


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 28,907
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Check with your local Ace or True Value.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#3
Yeah, this probably is a Silca article 24.4 chuck or pump head, they varied a bit in details over the years but doesn't seem to be something the NEW Silca owners offer in their catalog (in stainless steel let alone brass). But as BG says the o-ring is probably something you'll find a workable replacement for in a hardware store with a good plumbing section. It may be originally metric but chances are you can find a good enough match.
TIP: daubing a little silicone grease on neoprene parts makes them last a lot longer but don't go overboard with the grease!
TIP: daubing a little silicone grease on neoprene parts makes them last a lot longer but don't go overboard with the grease!
Last edited by unworthy1; 02-25-19 at 07:58 PM.
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 872
Likes: 601
From: Concord, NC
Bikes: 1984 Bianchi Tipo Corsa, 1985 Cannondale SM600 (24/26)
Thanks for the suggestions. That ring seems like it's going to fall apart if I try to remove it to match up to a new one but I might have to try.
#5
Full Member


Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 251
Likes: 149
From: Desert Southwest
Hardware store tip: leave the original o-ring on its brass mount and bring _all_ the parts with you to the hardware store.
Ask for assistance in finding a proper replacement.
You will likely be pleased with the result.
Ask for assistance in finding a proper replacement.
You will likely be pleased with the result.
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 734
Likes: 212
From: Northern Virginia
Bikes: Current: 2016 Bianchi Volpe; 1973 Peugeot UO-8. Past: 1974 Fuji S-10-S with custom black Imron paint by Stinsman Racing of PA.
This is some of the best advice I have ever seen on ANY forum. I can testify first person that following it WILL save a ton of grief.
#7
Not to offend anyone I hope but, if the O ring is shot, it hardly matters if you leave it in place and take the whole works into
the hardware store, or not. The helpful clerk will not be able to find you an exact match, or near exact, with the O ring in place.
You can measure the outside diameter as it is, but not the cross section. This is a seal that has to withstand some pretty good
pressure, so fit is important.
If it were me, I'd carefully cut the O ring in one place , with a sharp razor blade, and then remove it, and measure it.
You need the diameter, and the cross section. Or you can compare with available rings at the store. If they have them,
I'd get one as close as I can find, and one slightly larger in cross section.
the hardware store, or not. The helpful clerk will not be able to find you an exact match, or near exact, with the O ring in place.
You can measure the outside diameter as it is, but not the cross section. This is a seal that has to withstand some pretty good
pressure, so fit is important.
If it were me, I'd carefully cut the O ring in one place , with a sharp razor blade, and then remove it, and measure it.
You need the diameter, and the cross section. Or you can compare with available rings at the store. If they have them,
I'd get one as close as I can find, and one slightly larger in cross section.
#8
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 12
Likes: 3
From: Polo Field
Maybe not exactly what you’re looking for but you could consider replacing it with a Harimi head. It’s pricey investment but may very well change your life!
Cheaper alternatives do exist and none has worked as well.
Cheaper alternatives do exist and none has worked as well.
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 872
Likes: 601
From: Concord, NC
Bikes: 1984 Bianchi Tipo Corsa, 1985 Cannondale SM600 (24/26)
Update
I was able to get the replacement O-ring and it works perfectly! In case anyone else ever needs one for this particular Silca head, I got it at Lowe's plumbing section - had to get a 10-pack for around $2.
5/16" O.D x 3/16" I.D. x 1/16". I tried doing a reverse Challeger-hearing and had the part in hot water for a while but it still split getting it off; it was intact enough to match up.
5/16" O.D x 3/16" I.D. x 1/16". I tried doing a reverse Challeger-hearing and had the part in hot water for a while but it still split getting it off; it was intact enough to match up.
#10
I was able to get the replacement O-ring and it works perfectly! In case anyone else ever needs one for this particular Silca head, I got it at Lowe's plumbing section - had to get a 10-pack for around $2.
5/16" O.D x 3/16" I.D. x 1/16". I tried doing a reverse Challeger-hearing and had the part in hot water for a while but it still split getting it off; it was intact enough to match up.
5/16" O.D x 3/16" I.D. x 1/16". I tried doing a reverse Challeger-hearing and had the part in hot water for a while but it still split getting it off; it was intact enough to match up.
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