Hi all! I'm looking for a frameset to replace my current one, a 1994 Specialized Allez Pro. It's a beautiful lugged nut, solid steel frame but unfortunately the seatstays are bent from being hit by a car. This is my first foray into finding a compatible frame given a gruppo. I'm aware that the fork dropout (front wheel spacing), frame dropout (rear wheel spacing), headset, bottom bracket, front derailleur clamp, and seat diameter are a few measurements to keep in mind. I haven't found the exact measurements for this Allez Pro frame and I'm wary of any unknowns that could cause problems down the road...
I would like to keep using this campy groupo but it may be both cheaper and easier to buy a complete bike at this point. What do you think?
Thanks everyone!

1994 Specialized Allez Pro. Photo taken by previous owner in 2015.
I would like to keep using this campy groupo but it may be both cheaper and easier to buy a complete bike at this point. What do you think?
Thanks everyone!

1994 Specialized Allez Pro. Photo taken by previous owner in 2015.
repechage
Senior Member
close
- Join DateJun 2006
- Posts:21,792
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:851
-
Liked:3,695 Times in 2,545 Posts
I cannot tell if the front derailleur is mounted off a braze on or not.
English "ISO" threading, probably 130mm rear spacing.
Seatpost is probably a 27.2 but don't get a frame any larger and expect to use that aero seatpost. (in review, you may already have the post too low)
By the set up shown, not really much smaller either.
I would look for an Eddy Merckx or an American builder of the period. Will be def cheaper than a whole bike... well, maybe not, you have to look.
I found a terrific deal on an American builder made bike, complete for less than what I would have expected to pay for the frame alone a few years ago.
You may need a different length stem if you exchange frames, top tube lengths differ.
You could get an Italian frame, but most likely you will need to exchange the bottom bracket. The Italians held on with 36x24 threading, English, ISO is 1.370 x 24tpi with LH threading for the drive side.
English "ISO" threading, probably 130mm rear spacing.
Seatpost is probably a 27.2 but don't get a frame any larger and expect to use that aero seatpost. (in review, you may already have the post too low)
By the set up shown, not really much smaller either.
I would look for an Eddy Merckx or an American builder of the period. Will be def cheaper than a whole bike... well, maybe not, you have to look.
I found a terrific deal on an American builder made bike, complete for less than what I would have expected to pay for the frame alone a few years ago.
You may need a different length stem if you exchange frames, top tube lengths differ.
You could get an Italian frame, but most likely you will need to exchange the bottom bracket. The Italians held on with 36x24 threading, English, ISO is 1.370 x 24tpi with LH threading for the drive side.
SJX426
Senior Member
close
- Join DateMay 2008
- LocationFredericksburg, Va
- Posts:10,106
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:2,625
-
Liked:2,757 Times in 1,343 Posts
Sorry for the damage. How about pictures of the damage?
T-Mar
Senior Member
close
- Join DateNov 2004
- Posts:23,212
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:0
-
Liked:3,122 Times in 1,929 Posts
There are tools available to straighten bent stays. This may be a viable solution, provided the damage is mild.
Wildwood
Senior Member
close
- Join DateDec 2004
- LocationSeattle area
- Posts:15,366
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:4,468
-
Liked:8,275 Times in 3,360 Posts
Always fix something that can be loved again affordably, whatever that is.
In a new frame would you be looking to duplicate the ride of your Allez Pro? Or a more touring type ride experience? 28mm tires wide enough?
edit: For that group , i would be looking Italian frame. Never hurts to replace a bottom bracket, they can be affordable and vintage Italian may mean different threads.
A good 1st choice = DeRosa Pro - mine is SLX - what I call the all-day racer (also heard it called the 'stage race king')
Oversized tubes should make a slightly stiffer frame and paired with good supple tires the ride is great.
Actually there are so many choices, it can only be narrowed by you deciding your preferences.
In a new frame would you be looking to duplicate the ride of your Allez Pro? Or a more touring type ride experience? 28mm tires wide enough?
edit: For that group , i would be looking Italian frame. Never hurts to replace a bottom bracket, they can be affordable and vintage Italian may mean different threads.
A good 1st choice = DeRosa Pro - mine is SLX - what I call the all-day racer (also heard it called the 'stage race king')
Oversized tubes should make a slightly stiffer frame and paired with good supple tires the ride is great.
Actually there are so many choices, it can only be narrowed by you deciding your preferences.
merziac
Senior Member
close
- Join DateOct 2015
- LocationPDX
- Posts:16,073
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:15,313
-
Liked:9,429 Times in 5,186 Posts
Quote:
I would like to keep using this campy groupo but it may be both cheaper and easier to buy a complete bike at this point. What do you think?
Thanks everyone!

1994 Specialized Allez Pro. Photo taken by previous owner in 2015.
Pics of the damage are needed to properly weigh in as stated already.Originally Posted by anthonylangford
Hi all! I'm looking for a frameset to replace my current one, a 1994 Specialized Allez Pro. It's a beautiful lugged nut, solid steel frame but unfortunately the seatstays are bent from being hit by a car. This is my first foray into finding a compatible frame given a gruppo. I'm aware that the fork dropout (front wheel spacing), frame dropout (rear wheel spacing), headset, bottom bracket, front derailleur clamp, and seat diameter are a few measurements to keep in mind. I haven't found the exact measurements for this Allez Pro frame and I'm wary of any unknowns that could cause problems down the road...I would like to keep using this campy groupo but it may be both cheaper and easier to buy a complete bike at this point. What do you think?
Thanks everyone!

1994 Specialized Allez Pro. Photo taken by previous owner in 2015.
gugie
Bike Butcher of Portland
close
- Join DateJul 2014
- LocationPortland, OR
- Posts:12,427
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:1,253
-
Liked:7,918 Times in 2,860 Posts
Seat stays are the easiest tubes of a frame to fix or replace. I think you'll notice the sentiment here is to try and save that frame. On the other hand, for a racing bike, many would say that frame's a bit big for you, based on the seat height.
repechage
Senior Member
close
- Join DateJun 2006
- Posts:21,792
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:851
-
Liked:3,695 Times in 2,545 Posts
Quote:
the bars are about level with the seat, many like that.Originally Posted by gugie
Seat stays are the easiest tubes of a frame to fix or replace. I think you'll notice the sentiment here is to try and save that frame. On the other hand, for a racing bike, many would say that frame's a bit big for you, based on the seat height.
The tilt of the saddle indicates to me the wrong saddle. With the downward tilt, there is no escaping that the rider will be fighting gravity.
No way to advise without seeing one pedaling on the bike and asking questions.
Full Member
The caption to the photo: Photo taken by previous owner in 2015.
To me, this says nothing about the current position of the saddle, let alone the suitability of the frame for its current owner.
To me, this says nothing about the current position of the saddle, let alone the suitability of the frame for its current owner.
ThermionicScott
Senior Member
close
- Join DateAug 2011
- LocationCID
- Posts:22,676
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:7,387
-
Liked:2,642 Times in 1,617 Posts
Another vote for straightening the frame, unless the stays got crinkled or something.
Banned.
Drillium Dude
Banned.
close
- Join DateJul 2009
- LocationPAZ
- Posts:12,292
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:6,067
-
Liked:4,863 Times in 1,719 Posts
OP: What's the question here, anyway? What would we suggest for a replacement frame? Because if so, we need some idea of what kind of riding you do just to get in the ballpark of recommendations. Then you need to give us a budget - which of course we'll blow in two seconds flat 
So far the thread is steering into a "fix the frame" discussion, and I dunno if that's the direction you want to go in.
Take measurements of the rear spacing but don't worry about the front spacing - forks are set to a standard that doesn't really vary like the back end does. Seatpost size will be marked on your seatpost. Your main concerns, beyond finding a frame that best suits the kind of riding you do, will be to match up threading (or get replacement parts to work with different threading), ensure seatpost size and match rear spacing to your current wheelset.
DD

So far the thread is steering into a "fix the frame" discussion, and I dunno if that's the direction you want to go in.
Take measurements of the rear spacing but don't worry about the front spacing - forks are set to a standard that doesn't really vary like the back end does. Seatpost size will be marked on your seatpost. Your main concerns, beyond finding a frame that best suits the kind of riding you do, will be to match up threading (or get replacement parts to work with different threading), ensure seatpost size and match rear spacing to your current wheelset.
DD
Classtime
Senior Member
close
- Join DateJan 2015
- LocationLos Angeles
- Posts:5,770
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:4,866
-
Liked:3,321 Times in 1,643 Posts
madpogue
Senior Member
close
- Join DateJan 2004
- LocationMadison, WI USA
- Posts:6,169
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:1,427
-
Liked:1,797 Times in 1,204 Posts
Location (approximate)? As said, the frame damage is likely repairable, but knowing location, folks here can make recommendations for where to take it.
If you decide to replace it, the measurement answers are above, but it's best to measure it yourself to be certain, particularly the dropout spacing.
If you decide to replace it, the measurement answers are above, but it's best to measure it yourself to be certain, particularly the dropout spacing.
gugie
Bike Butcher of Portland
close
- Join DateJul 2014
- LocationPortland, OR
- Posts:12,427
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:1,253
-
Liked:7,918 Times in 2,860 Posts
Quote:
DD
True that, but it may very well be that this is an easy fix. We haven't seen any pictures of the frame in current condition. Part of the ethos of the C&V community is to keep these vintage steel frames on the road rather than throw them away. Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
So far the thread is steering into a "fix the frame" discussion, and I dunno if that's the direction you want to go in.DD
Here's a good thread to show you that sometimes a frame that looks like it's toast can be saved.
Banned.
Drillium Dude
Banned.
close
- Join DateJul 2009
- LocationPAZ
- Posts:12,292
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:6,067
-
Liked:4,863 Times in 1,719 Posts
Quote:
Here's a good thread to show you that sometimes a frame that looks like it's toast can be saved.
I'm all for repairing a vintage frame - I was only noting that the OP might not be even considering that as an option for their own reasons.Originally Posted by gugie
True that, but it may very well be that this is an easy fix. We haven't seen any pictures of the frame in current condition. Part of the ethos of the C&V community is to keep these vintage steel frames on the road rather than throw them away.Here's a good thread to show you that sometimes a frame that looks like it's toast can be saved.
DD
gugie
Bike Butcher of Portland
close
- Join DateJul 2014
- LocationPortland, OR
- Posts:12,427
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:1,253
-
Liked:7,918 Times in 2,860 Posts
Quote:
DD
If that were the case, I'd like to see the frame pix and offer to pay shipping to the Atelier.Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
I'm all for repairing a vintage frame - I was only noting that the OP might not be even considering that as an option for their own reasons.DD
Quote:

So far the thread is steering into a "fix the frame" discussion, and I dunno if that's the direction you want to go in.
Take measurements of the rear spacing but don't worry about the front spacing - forks are set to a standard that doesn't really vary like the back end does. Seatpost size will be marked on your seatpost. Your main concerns, beyond finding a frame that best suits the kind of riding you do, will be to match up threading (or get replacement parts to work with different threading), ensure seatpost size and match rear spacing to your current wheelset.
DD
Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
OP: What's the question here, anyway? What would we suggest for a replacement frame? Because if so, we need some idea of what kind of riding you do just to get in the ballpark of recommendations. Then you need to give us a budget - which of course we'll blow in two seconds flat 
So far the thread is steering into a "fix the frame" discussion, and I dunno if that's the direction you want to go in.
Take measurements of the rear spacing but don't worry about the front spacing - forks are set to a standard that doesn't really vary like the back end does. Seatpost size will be marked on your seatpost. Your main concerns, beyond finding a frame that best suits the kind of riding you do, will be to match up threading (or get replacement parts to work with different threading), ensure seatpost size and match rear spacing to your current wheelset.
DD
Quote:
If you decide to replace it, the measurement answers are above, but it's best to measure it yourself to be certain, particularly the dropout spacing.
Originally Posted by madpogue
Location (approximate)? As said, the frame damage is likely repairable, but knowing location, folks here can make recommendations for where to take it.If you decide to replace it, the measurement answers are above, but it's best to measure it yourself to be certain, particularly the dropout spacing.
Quote:
DD
DD: That info is incredibly helpful - thank you. I'm looking for recommendations for a replacement frame as well as general information about fitting frames. In the winter months, I mostly ride in and around the city of Toronto for commuting purposes. In the warmer months I like to do longer rides, as well as the odd triathlon. My budget would be around CAD$300-600 for everything, including extra components for compatibility.Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
I'm all for repairing a vintage frame - I was only noting that the OP might not be even considering that as an option for their own reasons.DD
I've asked too many a shop if the damage is repairable, and the answer is always a resounding and saddening no. I love this frame as much as you all love yours and I would pay more money than it's worth to save it, but the seatstays are toasted. Crinkled to the point of no return. Even so, the thought of bending them back and welding a piece of steel to it has crossed my mind... I'm going to take some photos over the weekend for you.
wrk101
Thrifty Bill
close
- Join DateJan 2008
- LocationMans of NC & SW UT Desert
- Posts:23,639
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:157
-
Liked:1,106 Times in 703 Posts
Donated that exact model and size to the co op last year in my quest to get down to a reasonable #. Too bad the timing wasn't better.
gugie
Bike Butcher of Portland
close
- Join DateJul 2014
- LocationPortland, OR
- Posts:12,427
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:1,253
-
Liked:7,918 Times in 2,860 Posts
Oof, if you were stateside I'd consider paying you to have it shipped to me. As I noted, seatstays are the easiest tube to replace, and I could find it a good home. I've been known to have three legged dogs follow me home...
Thanks in advance for the pix.
Thanks in advance for the pix.
ThermionicScott
Senior Member
close
- Join DateAug 2011
- LocationCID
- Posts:22,676
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:7,387
-
Liked:2,642 Times in 1,617 Posts
Speaking of repairs to keep a frame going... some of the vignettes on the Yellow Jersey page border on necromancy! A Nearly Neverending story - it's too early to tell 

madpogue
Senior Member
close
- Join DateJan 2004
- LocationMadison, WI USA
- Posts:6,169
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:1,427
-
Liked:1,797 Times in 1,204 Posts
^^^^^^ +1; the OP needs to find a place like YJ in his neck of the woods. Doesn't matter how many shops say no. Most modern shops are geared toward selling bikes, installing accessories, swapping components, and daily/minor repairs. It takes a special breed of builder / repairer to do frame work, but when you find such a person/place, amazing things can be done. Case in point - a buddy came by with a ca. 1990 Shogun with a broken seat binder/lug. He was sure that it was shot, or would cost a fortune to fix. I sent some pics to YJ, and Andy replied describing it as "straightforward", and would be $75.
BTW, the "mitch" in the URL of the above link is a neighbor, one of the founders of YJ back in the day, Mitch Nussbaum. I don't think I've ever seen him on anything but a VERY used old Raleigh (et al) three-speed, and he really does run them right to the end. At his age, I'm afraid it would blow his mind to suggest the notion of rinsing the salt off his bike after a winter ride.
BTW, the "mitch" in the URL of the above link is a neighbor, one of the founders of YJ back in the day, Mitch Nussbaum. I don't think I've ever seen him on anything but a VERY used old Raleigh (et al) three-speed, and he really does run them right to the end. At his age, I'm afraid it would blow his mind to suggest the notion of rinsing the salt off his bike after a winter ride.
Banned.
Drillium Dude
Banned.
close
- Join DateJul 2009
- LocationPAZ
- Posts:12,292
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:6,067
-
Liked:4,863 Times in 1,719 Posts
Knowing what Mark has repaired - and what other BF members have had repaired - I am really looking forward to the pics with a sort of morbid curiosity! OP, hopefully you didn't suffer as badly as the bike did in the car-to-bike contact.
I think given your budget you can easily find something of high-quality worthy of wearing the parts from your current machine. Assuming you find a frame with the same tube diameter and rear spacing, the only parts you may have to swap would be bottom bracket if you go with something Italian and headset. Headsets are always tricky, because if one is installed correctly the fork steerer is cut precisely to match it. If the fork on the new frame has a steerer just a little too long, you'd have to cut it to get a good installation. If it were just a tad too short, too few threads would engage and could affect the integrity of the interface. In simple terms, stack height of your current headset must match the new frame's fork or you're going shopping for a compatible one.
Check current Ebay sold prices for the same BB with Italian thread just to know ballpark what you may be paying for one of those. Assume for now your headset will transfer over. I'm thinking that's leaving you with 500CAD to put on a frame. You will find lots of nice road frames (you're still looking for vintage-ish, not modern, correct?) out there for that kind of money.
DD
I think given your budget you can easily find something of high-quality worthy of wearing the parts from your current machine. Assuming you find a frame with the same tube diameter and rear spacing, the only parts you may have to swap would be bottom bracket if you go with something Italian and headset. Headsets are always tricky, because if one is installed correctly the fork steerer is cut precisely to match it. If the fork on the new frame has a steerer just a little too long, you'd have to cut it to get a good installation. If it were just a tad too short, too few threads would engage and could affect the integrity of the interface. In simple terms, stack height of your current headset must match the new frame's fork or you're going shopping for a compatible one.
Check current Ebay sold prices for the same BB with Italian thread just to know ballpark what you may be paying for one of those. Assume for now your headset will transfer over. I'm thinking that's leaving you with 500CAD to put on a frame. You will find lots of nice road frames (you're still looking for vintage-ish, not modern, correct?) out there for that kind of money.
DD
Wildwood
Senior Member
close
- Join DateDec 2004
- LocationSeattle area
- Posts:15,366
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:4,468
-
Liked:8,275 Times in 3,360 Posts
This bike was 'adjusted' by [MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION]. No paint damage from repair. Stays bent but not crimped. Rides perfectly straight. Thanks again, Mark.




Quote:
Thanks in advance for the pix.
Originally Posted by gugie
Oof, if you were stateside I'd consider paying you to have it shipped to me. As I noted, seatstays are the easiest tube to replace, and I could find it a good home. I've been known to have three legged dogs follow me home...Thanks in advance for the pix.
Quote:
BTW, the "mitch" in the URL of the above link is a neighbor, one of the founders of YJ back in the day, Mitch Nussbaum. I don't think I've ever seen him on anything but a VERY used old Raleigh (et al) three-speed, and he really does run them right to the end. At his age, I'm afraid it would blow his mind to suggest the notion of rinsing the salt off his bike after a winter ride.
Originally Posted by madpogue
^^^^^^ +1; the OP needs to find a place like YJ in his neck of the woods. Doesn't matter how many shops say no. Most modern shops are geared toward selling bikes, installing accessories, swapping components, and daily/minor repairs. It takes a special breed of builder / repairer to do frame work, but when you find such a person/place, amazing things can be done. Case in point - a buddy came by with a ca. 1990 Shogun with a broken seat binder/lug. He was sure that it was shot, or would cost a fortune to fix. I sent some pics to YJ, and Andy replied describing it as "straightforward", and would be $75.BTW, the "mitch" in the URL of the above link is a neighbor, one of the founders of YJ back in the day, Mitch Nussbaum. I don't think I've ever seen him on anything but a VERY used old Raleigh (et al) three-speed, and he really does run them right to the end. At his age, I'm afraid it would blow his mind to suggest the notion of rinsing the salt off his bike after a winter ride.
Quote:
I think given your budget you can easily find something of high-quality worthy of wearing the parts from your current machine. Assuming you find a frame with the same tube diameter and rear spacing, the only parts you may have to swap would be bottom bracket if you go with something Italian and headset. Headsets are always tricky, because if one is installed correctly the fork steerer is cut precisely to match it. If the fork on the new frame has a steerer just a little too long, you'd have to cut it to get a good installation. If it were just a tad too short, too few threads would engage and could affect the integrity of the interface. In simple terms, stack height of your current headset must match the new frame's fork or you're going shopping for a compatible one.
Check current Ebay sold prices for the same BB with Italian thread just to know ballpark what you may be paying for one of those. Assume for now your headset will transfer over. I'm thinking that's leaving you with 500CAD to put on a frame. You will find lots of nice road frames (you're still looking for vintage-ish, not modern, correct?) out there for that kind of money.
DD
Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
Knowing what Mark has repaired - and what other BF members have had repaired - I am really looking forward to the pics with a sort of morbid curiosity! OP, hopefully you didn't suffer as badly as the bike did in the car-to-bike contact.I think given your budget you can easily find something of high-quality worthy of wearing the parts from your current machine. Assuming you find a frame with the same tube diameter and rear spacing, the only parts you may have to swap would be bottom bracket if you go with something Italian and headset. Headsets are always tricky, because if one is installed correctly the fork steerer is cut precisely to match it. If the fork on the new frame has a steerer just a little too long, you'd have to cut it to get a good installation. If it were just a tad too short, too few threads would engage and could affect the integrity of the interface. In simple terms, stack height of your current headset must match the new frame's fork or you're going shopping for a compatible one.
Check current Ebay sold prices for the same BB with Italian thread just to know ballpark what you may be paying for one of those. Assume for now your headset will transfer over. I'm thinking that's leaving you with 500CAD to put on a frame. You will find lots of nice road frames (you're still looking for vintage-ish, not modern, correct?) out there for that kind of money.
DD
Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildwood
This bike was 'adjusted' by [MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION]. No paint damage from repair. Stays bent but not crimped. Rides perfectly straight. Thanks again, Mark.
This is giving me hope, but I'm going to keep it at bay until you see these photos. What do you think?




Wildwood
Senior Member
close
- Join DateDec 2004
- LocationSeattle area
- Posts:15,366
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
-
Likes:4,468
-
Liked:8,275 Times in 3,360 Posts
Definately needs replacement.
edit: replace the stay AND get the DeRosa (as previously recommended).
edit: replace the stay AND get the DeRosa (as previously recommended).








