Bruce Gordon Chinook 1987 Plum by Mechanic Matt, on Flickr
Bruce Gordon Chinook 1987 Plum by Mechanic Matt, on Flickr

See I had multiple spots like this, and after a media blast, we found real pitting under there. So I'd say if you see this stuff, I'd lean towards a respray for sure, if it is just surface rust that may be a different call.

^^^^^ Yes , I just completed a Motobecane that had that exact type of rust. I had it media blasted and powder coated to the original color. The powder paint guy used a special primer to adhere and not allow the rust to go further. It is not a special bike by any means but too nice to let the rust Gods take it. It was a lot cheaper to get done than a repaint by a pro like Jack at Franklin , but not near as nice. It came out great for my $20 Motobecane Grand Sprint.

The clearcoat appears to failing across the majority of the paint. The base coat underneath won't last long, and in some areas (underneath the bb) appears to be already gone.

I like patina on single stage paint, but failing clearcoat just looks awful to my eye. If this were my bike I would accept that it probably needs a professional repaint, but try and save the original paint first by carefully removing what's left of the clear, then putting a fresh layer of clear over top.

Hmmm...if we only knew how thick the underlying coat of paint is under the deteriorating clear pearl coat. As noted earlier, the Casati's undercoat was dull and came off easily from handling. Honestly, if this were mine I'd give it a go with water and steel/brass wool - first around the bottom of the BB shell where it would be less conspicuous - and see if I could remove only the clear pearl stuff. If it came off uniformly, but didn't harm the underlying paint, I'd then clear coat the frame and call it a win.

This would be a painstaking process, but IMHO well worth it. Go for it, Patrick

DD

[MENTION=200311]mechanicmatt[/MENTION] - This bike doesn't have that rust problem. The Burley did and to some degree the 610.
P1010035 on Flickr
P1010140 on Flickr
[MENTION=58174]delicious[/MENTION] Any suggestions on how to remove the clear coat other than DD's method?
[MENTION=168558]Drillium Dude[/MENTION] - I have tried using rubbing compound and wax with no change in the color of the BB surface. WRT using wool, is brass a better choice than steel? I wouldn't think the impact would be any different with oxidizing clear coat.

The consensus is moving toward trying to save the base coat if possible, but the frame is worth "restoring" event to the point of repaint. At least that is how I am influenced by the responses.

If a repaint is the end result, would it really matter if a solid color was selected if it come close to the choices found in the catalogs? Or would the choices be wide open given it would be stripped and no longer original? For me I would try to avoid red and blue as they are already in the stable, De Rosa and Colnago respectively. After looking at the catalog, not much choice.
2.jpg (1637×1219) (bulgier.net)

I don't think it would matter either way; I listed both as choices in an either/or context. I would, however, start slowly using a finer grade like 000 - would improve the chances of retaining the base layer.

Of course, the final question is how to attain the pearl look in the end; I've noted at least one mention of spray clear with a pearl look while going through this thread. You might ask more about that stuff because a normal clear will not result in a finish akin to the original. Unless that doesn't bother you, then do a regular clear. Pinarellos had a couple different multicolor paint schemes - Alexi Grewal's Olympics rig comes to mind:



DD

I applied a gentle rubbing with 000. I have 0000 too and will try it. The issues is the color under the joints on the frame is the white that is on the center of the TT, naturally. So the lug edges loose the top color and show white.

^Whoa!^

I think I take back my previous statement. Didn't fully understand what was going on there. That looks promising.

That looks way better. I think you're on the right track, just keep slowly removing the top layer. You may need a different tool to get the edges of the lugs -- maybe something like a sanding pencil?

Steel wool seems to be working fine, but you might also try very fine grit sand paper (like ~2000) or a very fine scotch brite pad.

I guess that confirms it: the underlying colors at the joints are rather thin layers. But I would bet the white coming through wouldn't show much and would definitely pass the 5-foot test.

The tough bit will be keeping any of the decals from being damaged. Slow and steady wins the race!

DD

It does look promising.
I will have to more carefull and figure out how to get in the lug tube joint or maybe leave it with an attempt or two just to get the loose stuff.
About those decals. This is an example of what was left when they fell off.
P1020191 on Flickr

I think this one should be replaced.
P1020192 on Flickr

^ Oops - I thought those were white Pinarello logos. Now I understand they're the Ghosts of Decals Past

Take dimensions of the ghost impressions so that when you re-decal, you know exactly where to place them. There's a frame on the FSOT thread currently that IMHO is suffering from lack of interest due to decal placement.

I assume the originals were black?

Pretty sure you're going to end up with a really nice finish after a lot of work, but little monetary outlay. I say this because even the paint on the bottom of the BB shell is intact - it's just the pearl clearcoat that is failing and causing the ugly

DD

...but this wasn't $20k originally, isn't worth $20k now, and won't be worth 1/40th it's current worth if it is repainted.

It also makes no sense to me to keep original wrecked bar tape, brake pads, and tires for the same reason- original doesn't automatically mean more valuable or coveted.

Agreed. Another side of the coin: there's a big difference between patina and neglect. Neglect should be rectified; patina, not so much.

The OP's frame and my similarly-finished Casati were neglected and deserve to receive attention, if only to maintain what is there, which is pretty much what Patrick seems to be doing here.

DD

Yes, I am a big fan of patina. And I like my bikes to be "sleepers". I will make them mechanically sound for sure.

That Burley was "beyond" patina, and a respray was in order.

My favorite bike continues to be my 1988 Cimarron LE. $15 garage sale find, paint was horrible. Components were pretty much slap wore out. So I found a 1990 Shogun donor bike and took care of the worn out stuff. Paint has been touched up, but not a great job. Treated all the rust.

Came to me with a unique, homemade QUAD crankset. Weirdest crap I have seen.

My second favorite was a 1972 Schwinn World Voyageur, dug out of the woods where it had been abandoned for years. Patina? You bet! Wish I had kept it.

Originals were black as shown in the link to the catalog. I do prefer the white which is less glaring. However, with the modification to 3x9, Campagnolo cables and housing are black. Might work along with the blackish rims.

I am totally stealing that line…

I'm not saying to respray something like red chromovelato, but I'm not, not saying like red chromovelato. Italians need flare, with a bit of original chrome showing.

Maybe I need to spray something I have as chromovelato.

I'm writing this post to explain an option to some of you that want some kind of refresh but not a total redo and don't want to leave it as it is. I'm a pro painter with all the right equipment just to put my comments in context. One of my friends that does me favors was fixing up an old Schwinn for around town riding. He had taken the whole bicycle apart for cleaning and brought the frame up to me for a new clear coat. I addressed a few rust issues with a wire wheel on a Dremel and he scuffed the surface with a Scotch Brite pad. This gives a bit of bite for the new paint to adhere to. I also used a mild petroleum cleaner auto body shops use to get rid of any grease or oils or fingerprints. It gets rid of oil but is not so powerful it starts to melt the paint. He left all the old stickers on. I put an additive into the clear coat paint that cuts the gloss. That prevents it from having the "wet look" we desire on new finishes. I thought the results were decent. It retains the old look but looks fresh. I should emphasize that we weren't trying to make it look perfect, just nice. Not new just reconditioned.

[MENTION=184012]Doug Fattic[/MENTION] - I appreciate your comment. Interesting approach too. That frame looks great. Noticed it in the other thread where you presented it.

Typically, I don't like the idea of a fresh paint on the frame when the parts are used and have the Patina of the original condition of the frame just prior to repaint. The parts on the Pinarello are used but don't have significant wear and tear the paint presents.
[MENTION=200311]mechanicmatt[/MENTION] - Given This frame is chrome underneath, Chromovelato would be really cool. Don't know how that is done with any acceptable quality. Any ideas?