Thank you ! I was thinking as I typed it " Kinetic is not right"

Yeeeeikes Thats a long steerer .
Checked the fork I was thinking of .
It is only? 220 mm .
Apologies for getting your hopes up .

Haha yeah. Tall. It's all good. There's no rush on replacing it either. I can get it riding with this one and something will turn up.

Excellent

I saw that pop up on trademe and quickly disappear. I owuld have jumped on it but Auckland is 4 hours away so not worth the drive! Looks nice though, big frames don't come up very often. Shame about the fork though.

Haha yeah you gotta jump on a deal. There's lots of cool old bikes floating around here though.

Janky touchups in progress.

Not pretty but should protect the frame for a few years. If i find a good replacement fork that's not chromed i'll get them both powdercoated.
I'm not doing the dropouts yet. Not entirely sure how to handle those.

rust converter dried to black primer


Tamiya rattlecan

I think your approach with touch-up on these areas is a sound one, so do the same on the dropouts, but since the contact "faces" were once chrome plated (a very popular treatment that was misguided, IMHO) paint won't adhere well to chrome.
And the knurled surfaces of QR or track nuts will keep chewing up any paint you apply. so just mask off the DO faces and remove rust as best you can, paint all around them like you're doing. It may look janky but will do some good. An alternative to masking tape: try coating with rubber cement and let that dry, makes a sort of masking fliud. Peels off when the spray paint is dry.
Spray the insides of all tubes with a reliable rust preventative, here in the US there's the popular Frame Saver brand (most $$$) Boeshield (also $$), LPS #4 ($$) and the lowest cost plain BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) you have to pour in cause that isn't sold in a rattlecan.
You could try posting a WTB for a good quality steel fork with the steerer length you need, not gonna be quick or easy to get one to NZ for a reasonable cost, but.... ya have to start somewhere.

If you're in Auckland maybe try Steve at Forza bikes, he may have a fork.

Thanks, will do as you say re the dropouts. I had a can of LPS #3 in the past, pretty good except the nozzle gummed up after a while. At the moment i have a can of aerosol fish oil for this purpose. First got introduced to that to spray into the doors/body etc of old cars.

I'm fine just using the old fork for now. The whole bike cost me $50 ($30 USD) and I want to see if it fits me before i spend any more on it. That way I can give someone else a good deal on it if it doesn't.

I'll ride it out to see him when I get it running again

Whatever a fork may end up costing, to get that frame for $30 (US) is something I would tell the grandkids about!
Lucky for all of us that I don't have any grandkids to torment with such stories...but that's one hella great deal!

yep

I should have masked bigger regular shaped areas, would look cleaner.

next time.

Some framebuilders pin the lugs to hold them in place during brazing.


Hole drilled through the seat stay and seat tube, small nail tapped through before brazing.

pinning the tubes/lugs was something Pelizzoli was known to have done when he (and/or assistants) were building CIOCC frames.
I'm not 100% sure but I think that the Bonati factory did not pin: their operation was far more automated and volume/output was much higher, still a fair number of build operations were done by hand, but they had a lot more machinery and jigs.

If you run across the video with the (in)famous pop-classical soundtrack (shudder!) this vid showed their factory hard at work making Ciocc, Conti and John frames from automated tube cutting to paint and fully built bicycles packed into vans for delivery...but I'd reco you turn the sound "OFF"!

Turns out the seatpost was 27.0
Progress:


pretend it has a chrome fork

parts bin mishmash drivetrain

12-32 Sram 7 speed (actually lighter than the old HG50)
870 Sram chain
52-40 Arabesque rings, tricolor bolts, 6500 arms.
Short cage 9 speed Ultegra rd with the b-screw flipped and bent a little.
Campy fd.
105 downtube shifters

30mm grand boy tire just fits in the back. Tight gaps.

Just jumping in with one more piece of evidence of the Ciocc/Concorde connection. A customer ordered a Ciocc frameset from the shop where I worked back then. The distributor took the order, but some time later got in touch to tell me that per a recent change, Ciocc framesets were no longer available under that name but would be designated Concorde framesets henceforth. The customer still wanted it, so we waited for his Concorde frame to show up. Took something like six months, as I recall.

And a thought about the aluminum fork. Looking for something more like the original fork is understandable, but you might find that you enjoy the ride with the Kinesis fork in the meantime, if you keep an open mind about it. I've always found that, for a given wheelbase (e.g., the Italian criterium geometry bikes like that Concorde are pretty close to track bike geometry and are always going to give a hard ride), the supposed differences between carbon, aluminum, and steel forks in "comfort" are well within confirmation bias territory.

touch-up on that DO looks "janky but right"!
One more trivia point: the fact of this frame being so tall, plus the 27.0 seatpost, points to it probably being Columbus SP tubing, or a mixed set with SP seat tube at least.

Very slight chance it's SPX tubing but I think it's a couple years too young for that, you could check with a good light in the butts of the main tubes next time you have the BB opened up and can look carefully (if you hadn't already). SPX (as does SLX) has helical ridges in the butts of those tubes, similar to what all SL (and above) steerers in Columbus forks will have.

Ride it like you stole it !!!! (which you did ! hee hee )

Have fun

Good advice. I've never even ridden an aluminium road fork before. I'll keep an open mind about it. Also running 28-30 comfy tires should smooth out the ride some. I don't like how it looks but it might ride just fine and the best move maybe doing something with the paint on it. Plus it'll probably be a while before i even find a decent replacement.

Love the history too.

I didn't find the music offensive.. Here's an example of pinned joints in a Concorde Aquila frame from that very factory.

music is such a personal and subjective choice...but we can at least agree on the quality of some bikes!

And thanks for this piece of info!