Help identify this 70’s lugged frame?!
#1
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Help identify this 70’s lugged frame?!
Hello,
I was hoping someone could help me identify this “seemingly 70’s” nervex-lugged steel frame that o recently picked up from marketplace.
the marketplace ad did not have great photos, but I was able to recognize the Campagnolo bits as well as the nervex lugs.
the owner stated her husband used to race back in the day (should have asked what decade) and he was from white plains, NY.
here’s some details that photos don’t show:
appears To be an “E” stamped in the head tube. No other stamps on the drops outs or the BB shell.
Campy Nuovo Record RD has a 1973 patent stamp.
any ideas or things to look for? Is a frame in this condition worth saving? If so, how?







I was hoping someone could help me identify this “seemingly 70’s” nervex-lugged steel frame that o recently picked up from marketplace.
the marketplace ad did not have great photos, but I was able to recognize the Campagnolo bits as well as the nervex lugs.
the owner stated her husband used to race back in the day (should have asked what decade) and he was from white plains, NY.
here’s some details that photos don’t show:
appears To be an “E” stamped in the head tube. No other stamps on the drops outs or the BB shell.
Campy Nuovo Record RD has a 1973 patent stamp.
any ideas or things to look for? Is a frame in this condition worth saving? If so, how?







#3
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#4
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Looks like they sawed off the rear derailleur mount. Also, there are no eyelets on the front dropouts, maybe they were sawed off too. The fork has a Nervex fork crown, which the PX-10 used. Good quality frame, all it needs is a little TLC!
#5
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Good guess, given the fact that the derailleur hanger has been cut off. Clear sign of a frame designed for old Simplex derailleurs.
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#6
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When you ask if it is worth saving, I would respond yes with a few cautions. A good Powder-coating shop like Pro-Kote Indy would do a bead blast to remove the rust and get it clean enough to coat. The whole process is about $225 and it would be all new again. But your budget may not like that price! If you decide to do something like that with it you will have a great ride that performs rather well under you. Smiles, MH
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That head tube looks funny.
The top and bottom reinforcing rings at the cup sockets look to have flats on the sides.
They should be round all around.
I wonder if the head tube - alone, fork and cups removed - was gripped in a vice and squeezed.
To untwist a frame?
The brazing looks to have gaps as well.
The top and bottom reinforcing rings at the cup sockets look to have flats on the sides.
They should be round all around.
I wonder if the head tube - alone, fork and cups removed - was gripped in a vice and squeezed.
To untwist a frame?
The brazing looks to have gaps as well.
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Here is a PX10 that I restored years ago...

I have owned and rebuilt two others and all three sported the Simplex rear drop outs. Perhaps it is the vintage or picture quality, but I don't see the name on the OP's frame...


I have owned and rebuilt two others and all three sported the Simplex rear drop outs. Perhaps it is the vintage or picture quality, but I don't see the name on the OP's frame...

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#9
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They don't all have SIMPLEX on the gusset in a recessed portion (or even there at all), there was a variation with the letters just raised above the surface - and in the close-up below I think you can just see the S hiding under the mech cable housing, the remainder of the logo being rusted away, is covered by muck, or was badly forged to start with:


#10
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thanks for the reply. Not sure what you mean by hardwood plug, though. Like u see the steerer tube?
and what else makes you say PX-10E?
or doesn’t have Simplex dropout stamps
#11
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When you ask if it is worth saving, I would respond yes with a few cautions. A good Powder-coating shop like Pro-Kote Indy would do a bead blast to remove the rust and get it clean enough to coat. The whole process is about $225 and it would be all new again. But your budget may not like that price! If you decide to do something like that with it you will have a great ride that performs rather well under you. Smiles, MH
#12
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They don't all have SIMPLEX on the gusset in a recessed portion (or even there at all), there was a variation with the letters just raised above the surface - and in the close-up below I think you can just see the S hiding under the mech cable housing, the remainder of the logo being rusted away, is covered by muck, or was badly forged to start with:


#13
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EDIT: I've just peered at the rear dropouts on the OP's first photo above, and it appears that the non drive side dropout has the same shape as the drive side dropout. In other words, it has the same abrupt transition from curved to flat. Let's see some better pics.
Also, is there any sign of chrome on the front fork?
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Last edited by Aubergine; 07-17-24 at 01:27 PM.
#14
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The reason we think it has been hacked off is that the old Simplex derailleur hangers were not compatible with other derailleur brands such as the Campy on your bike. People thus cut them off and used a bolt on ("claw") derailleur hanger. Also, behind the claw you can see the abrupt change on the frame's dropout from rounded at the rear to flat at the bottom.
Both steel wool and a derusting agent (a mild acid) will clean that frame without damaging it.
EDIT: I've just peered at the rear dropouts on the OP's first photo above, and it appears that the non drive side dropout has the same shape as the drive side dropout. In other words, it has the same abrupt transition from curved to flat. Let's see some better pics.
Also, is there any sign of chrome on the front fork?
Both steel wool and a derusting agent (a mild acid) will clean that frame without damaging it.
EDIT: I've just peered at the rear dropouts on the OP's first photo above, and it appears that the non drive side dropout has the same shape as the drive side dropout. In other words, it has the same abrupt transition from curved to flat. Let's see some better pics.
Also, is there any sign of chrome on the front fork?

yea appeared to have chrome socks on the fork.
#16
you are correct: "drewed with extreme prejudice", (likely the NDS had a "finger" which also got amputated) easy workaround is with a claw as OP posted but if this frame is otherwise undamaged and worth it to you to have a threaded hanger, you could have a frame repairist braze or Tig-weld one on
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#18
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I am not Juvela and although I am familiar with Peugeots I can only say that the PX 10 is a good match for what you have. The chrome on the fork and the seat and chain stays is one identifier; the Nervex lugs are another. Oh, and the little oval cap at the top of the seat stay is a good signifier. One thing I disagree with though is the E designation. That simply means the bike was sold with clincher wheels and tires, not tubulars. We obviously can't tell just from the frame!
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the bottom bracket was English threaded, however.. (loosened counter clockwise)

#20
the bottom bracket was English threaded, however.. (loosened counter clockwise)
CCW to loosen which cup?
If both then that's regular RH threading to both cups and indicates a FR (or Italian but that's not gonna happen) BB.
If you meant the NDS cup then CCW to unscrew is an indication of ANY threading: they ALL unscrew CCW.
If the DS cup it should require CLOCKWISE turning to unscrew the LH threaded cup for a British (or Swiss) BB
If you have both cups removed then TEST the BB shell with a known BSC (British) BB unit, but depending on brand there could also be markings on the cups which tell you what threading is used
CCW to loosen which cup?
If both then that's regular RH threading to both cups and indicates a FR (or Italian but that's not gonna happen) BB.
If you meant the NDS cup then CCW to unscrew is an indication of ANY threading: they ALL unscrew CCW.
If the DS cup it should require CLOCKWISE turning to unscrew the LH threaded cup for a British (or Swiss) BB
If you have both cups removed then TEST the BB shell with a known BSC (British) BB unit, but depending on brand there could also be markings on the cups which tell you what threading is used
#21
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the bottom bracket was English threaded, however.. (loosened counter clockwise)
CCW to loosen which cup?
If both then that's regular RH threading to both cups and indicates a FR (or Italian but that's not gonna happen) BB.
If you meant the NDS cup then CCW to unscrew is an indication of ANY threading: they ALL unscrew CCW.
If the DS cup it should require CLOCKWISE turning to unscrew the LH threaded cup for a British (or Swiss) BB
If you have both cups removed then TEST the BB shell with a known BSC (British) BB unit, but depending on brand there could also be markings on the cups which tell you what threading is used
CCW to loosen which cup?
If both then that's regular RH threading to both cups and indicates a FR (or Italian but that's not gonna happen) BB.
If you meant the NDS cup then CCW to unscrew is an indication of ANY threading: they ALL unscrew CCW.
If the DS cup it should require CLOCKWISE turning to unscrew the LH threaded cup for a British (or Swiss) BB
If you have both cups removed then TEST the BB shell with a known BSC (British) BB unit, but depending on brand there could also be markings on the cups which tell you what threading is used
#22
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you’re probably correct. I wasn’t confident in my “English threaded BB” assessment. I always thought French BBs were L threaded (clockwise) on the drive side. So I thought this was a counter point to it being a Peugeot. I stand mistaken.
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