I have a steel frame reputed to be made from Columbus SL steel. Question. Will I have issues with the heat treatment used in chroming?
I love the ride and want to keep this frame in top condition.

I'm thinking that factories chromed frames that were of brazed construction, why couldn't you?

Unfortunately I don't know the temperature used in the plating process, where I assume that molten copper, nickel and chromium are electroplated onto the frame. I doubt it would approach the temperatures used in drawing and tempering steel, though. Hopefully a more knowledgeable poster will step in...

Also, the frame probably should be baked after chromeplating to ensure there is no problem with hydrogen embrittlement.

+1 on the baking.

You also want it done by someone familiar with plating bike frames. Aside from getting proper coverage and avoiding burning, they need to know about vent holes and not leaving corrosive chemicals inside.

Chrome plating in the USA is all electrolitic, not much het, there is some heat if baking is done after to prevent hydrogen embrittlement (good idea) but its basically 450° F.

From discussions with platers:

Frames are BAD, they trap fluid, and contaminate the next tank quickly.

Look at your frame, vent holes let brazing gas escape, but can trap acids and salts BAD.

Better the prep going in better coming out, read polish the raw metal first.

Copper plating is used often to get the polishing done faster, easier to polish copper than steel.

Then Nickel, then chrome for a durable chrome job.

Braze-ons snag buffing wheels, BAD Read frame flying across shop, then damage.

Bottom brackets are a problem, annodes can be set to encourage better coverage, say between the chainstays and bridge, but more work, more cost, polishing those areas are a hand tool zone, more cost.

Unless you get a guy who is desperate, its going to cost. In SoCal, $650 to $700 for a West Coast Chopper quality job.

If the frame has some plating now, more trouble, as it has to be "reversed" off, and THAT can ruin a frame if in too long, read undo the silver and or brass. The old chrome has to come off first, Columbus is a bit trickier as it is Chromemoly... chrome in the tubing steel can be removed!

All these hurtles can be overcome, just takes time and or money.

A chrome shop that mostly does bumpers is not the place to go, a plater that has done the drill prior is, but they will not be as cheap.

What about DIY brush plating and home plating kits, like those from Caswell? Could lugs not be brush plated? Electroless nickel looks attractive, but even then it's quite expensive, far more than the actual cost of the chemicals, I would think.

Thanks for all of this. I love this bike and so want to chrome all those areas that get knocked around esp around where the wheels/chain meet the frame. Also the classic look of a nice pair of chromed forks.....!

Am I going down the right track or should I invest in a real good paint job and just accept the high contact areas getting marked

No B S!

Listen to the guys above, esp 'Repechage'; they/he

known what they are talking about.


Regards,
J T


Now, why not a discussion on the care of existing 'chrome'.

From the shiney is pretty club, no doubt.

Go paint, then buy a factory Chrome Paramount for the riding a house of mirrors effect.