For all you folks that have polished a chrome frame did you use buffing compound and a wheel to get the scratches out or will that work on chrome like it does on paint? I need to get the Volare cleaned up and see if its going to buff out well enough to leave it chrome. Thanks.

Decorative chrome plating is extremely thin, a fraction of one thousandth of an inch. My sense is that buffing to remove scratches will remove the chrome. I would just polish it and wax it. However, here is what Caswell has to say about it. Of course, if you buff through the plating, they can sell you a kit to fix that.

Caswell is N U T S !

(and you may quote me)


Regards,
J T

Okay, I'm quoting...I know chrome plating is VERY thin, but I've had good luck with Caswell products. I used a drill mounted Caswell wheel on my chrome Schwinn 12.2 and didn't have any issues. I used a soft (floppy) wheel and Turtle Wax Chrome polish. Is the Schwinn plating thicker than say, an Italian chromed fork or chain stay?

I also used a bench mounted Caswell wheel and compound to buff out an Italian fork AFTER the chrome had been removed. It came out great, though it is Columbus chromium steel to begin with. It just doesn't have the 'mirrored' chrome finish now, but is still very shiny, good enuf to pass...

What would you recommend? I'm asking this with sincerity, since you seem to have a vast knowledge of working with chrome plating, and I'm try to learn.

Thanks,

John

Hang in!

Regards
J T

Old Fat Guy, the mirror finish of decorative chrome plating is actually how the base metal has been buffed. The plating just gives it the colour and protection. You may have actually removed the chrome and got down to the nickel, which is thicker. Nickel has a "warmer" look than chrome. There is also what is known as "hard chrome plating", which does not have to be as very shiny, but is thicker, maybe several thou. It is used to provide wear resistance for cylinder bores, rods, and such.

'Chrome', is NOT a 'paint'.

Use NO abraisive on it.

If your 'chrome polish', will remove oxide from aluminium, it IS an abraisive.

Chrome can NOT be 'improved', only degraded.

Clean it with a detergent and cloth. (A light oil, WD-40, etc, is ok)

Protect it. (sealant/wax,etc)


Regards,
J T

(What we need here is a 'sticky', on the 'Care & Feeding of Chromium Plate'!

Well parts of this frame will need to be repainted or powdercoated. The scratching is deep enough that my chrome polish will not shine it up like it needs The seat and chainstays that were originally exposed chrome look to be ok and the headtube lugs should be ok also. The fork is not original to the bike so its going to be all chorome, so it will a good cleaning with a degreaser and plug up the threading and mask off what I don't want powdercoat then away it will go one of these days.

No doubt, and a pic when complete?

Regards,
J T

I didn't want to seem 'mean/abrupt', but I have seen so much 'plate just ruined by

those who don't understand with what they are dealing.


Regards,
J T

No doubt there will be pictures or Easthill will descend on Sumner with fury and anger (well at least with great curiosity)

Hell hath no fury . . . .

LOL !

One day soon, i will buy a camera just for my 'Ambrosi'.


Regards,
J T

JT I didn't think anything about your post being abrupt. I'll take any good advice. This is going to be a pretty nice ride when its done and I want it to look right. I learned a lot on the Continental build and being in the metal trades I have a pretty good idea what I'm dealing with but every situation is different and what I know about tool and die doesn't necessarily transfer over to bike building. I'm learning a lot and I think I have found something to keep me busy when I retire in a few years. I think my next build after this will be a classic balloon style bike or a Schwinn middleweight. Lots of opportunity for bling there

Certainly not an expert on chrome, but I have definitely seen a lot of chrome simply ruined by over enthusiastic polishing - even by hand polishing with mildly abrasive "chrome polishes". ~ After years of repeated preening, the thin surface chrome had simply worn down to the nickel or brass substrate. Very sad to see this, and only remedied by re-plating. Definitely proceed with caution.

... And, bear in mind that I attack aluminum alloy like a madman with a buffing wheel - but alloy parts are millimeters thick not a thin surface layer only microns in depth.

I have the aluminum polishing covered like a blanket. I work in the aircraft industry and there are tons of leftover polishing items that get tossed so I can get some of that stuff.

So I just got an old chrome Raleigh and in some spots the Chrome has an allmost orange , brown rusty tinge to it. It does not appeaer pitted and there is clear dlleniation lines were it starts and then is perfectly clear. This is on several spots on bike. Any thoughts-advice beyond the mild detergent-WD40 to clear it up or what to avoid so it does not get worse.

Thanks
Jim
You cannot see in these pics


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'NEVER-DULL', wadding polish.

Regards,
J T

Folks have also had good luck using oxalic acid to get rid of rust spots coming through both chrome and paint. This is supposedly also sold as wood bleach by hardware stores, but none of them seem to know about it in Canada. I finally sourced some from a taxidermy supply place in Quebec and will report on how it works when I get it.

No fury or anger,but yes to great curiosity, and probably squealing in delight when she sees all those beautiful bikes in person one day .

East Hill

That is a EXCELLENT idea .

JT, you are safe in Toronto, but stringbreaker knows that I am less than 20 miles away from him... .

East Hill