I am planning to use toe straps and street shoes on my commuter bike.

So, what is/are the secret(s) to successful toe strap installation.

I have done some searching (including Sheldon Brown's site of course) and I am unable to find anything.

I do seem to recall reading somewhere to add a twist between the ends of the cage, but I can't find it now.

Also, how does the buckle on the strap work? I think I have it, but does anyone have a picture of how to use the buckle properly?

Also, I don't plan to cinch them down when I ride, but keep them loose enough to easily pull out. Does this change how to strap them? If I am doing the buckle right, and put the end into the back half of the buckle (??) it seems to hold it in place very solidly.

Is this a reasonable way to use them?

I used to put the twist in the part of the strap that was threaded in the pedal (between the insertion point and the exit) so that it would not slide when adjusting or releasing them.

Most people say to put a twist in the middle of the strap strap where it passes through the pedal, but I've found that still slips, even with the stiffest leather straps, and the buckle end keeps getting longer and longer until you have to pull the strap back through. This is how I do it, but you need good long straps, which are hard to find in leather, but the nylon ones at your LBS they use for MTBs are perfect.



The buckle is self-explanatory. You just flick it to loosen the strap. So long as you don't pull them so tight that your feet go to sleep, you'll be able to get your foot out in an emergency.

https://www.yellowjersey.org/how2clip.html

Thanks for the info (and pic).

I am able to see that I have the buckle right.

I think I'll try the "alternate routing" as one of the 2 pair of straps I have on hand are the long nylon type.

Then on my second bike I'l try the twist method with the leather straps I have.

Another great help arrived while I was composing the other message.

Answer now even more complete.

Thanks!

Thick straps such as the old Binda type (laminated, with outer layer being synthetic) are (for me) difficult to install, but they stay in place nicely, no twist needed. You might try wrapping the strap with a thin strip of athletic tape on each side where it passes through the pedal casting. If you build up the thickness enough, then it can't pass back through. To remove, unwrap the side nearer the non-buckle end.

I have occasionally put a staple or two through a strap to keep it from migrating.

I was taught to put 2 twists in the section to the center of the pedal; works fine with the basic leather straps I use. The end only goes through the roller part of the buckle, you pull on the straps to tighten when spinning, pull on the buckle for a quick loosen. If you add these plastic buttons on the ends, the strap won't be coming out of the buckle and you have something to grab when you tighten. You can also add these leather sleeves which pad the side of your foot at the strap.

No matter how tight you cinch them down, if you really need to get your foot out, you will.

I just bought a pair of Christophe straps. The instuctions on the package tell you to twist them.

+1
Yes, that's one full rotation of the strap. any less any it's prone to slipping. Kind of obvious with leather since there is one finished side. Not so obvious with nylon though.

I dunno. I once came to a stop at the corner of Clark and Diversey in Chicago. It's a busy corner, which means I had a big audience. Couldn't get out of the straps. I went over hard, to much hilarity. The straps came off the next day.

Mike

Not with cleats. I never dumped one that way, you understand, but I've seen it happen a number of times.

A twist of the strap worked for me, and a pair of Campy laminated straps were so thick, they just held in my Dura Ace EX pedal. If twisting won't work due to length, and the pedal doesn't have a set screw to grab the strap, try using black nylon wire ties to secure them in place. Use black ties, as they are UV resistant.

The funniest toe strap/clip memory comes from my teen years. It was my first attempt at the NYC 5 Boro Bike Tour. I with my department store special with Shimano Eagle RD. I was so proud.
My friend brought along his buddies from his neighborhood. One worked at a bike shop. He had a Peugeot with all sorts of parts swapped on. He was so alpha male that morning, opinion on everything bike. We departed from Astoria, Queens, via the E train to take us to the World Trade Center for the starting point. The train was a special run for only bikers. When we got to the last stop, we disembarked. We were asked to walk our bikes, some elected to ignore it and started riding on the platform. Of course our Alpha male was one of the first. We had to mount up to keep up with him. Bear in mind, it's crowded. The exit was at the end of the platform. Once we got there, it was a crush of people getting through the turnstyles and doors. Our expert was of course such a pro, that he even tightened both toe straps for his platform sprint. Upon reaching the crowd, he skids to a stop, couldn't pull his foot out, and slowly toppled over....to the delight of the unforgiving NYC audience. He had us in tears. More hilarious was that he was inches from going off the platform and onto the tracks! Hmmm, I wonder what 600VDC will do to French tubing?
He was pretty quiet for the rest of the day. Nothing humbles like a Christophe toe strap.

Hi everyone, just got a post up on our blog about different ways to lace up double straps.

Personally i like to do it so both straps go through the pedal, on different sides of the spindle. Theres a picture of my (mork's) setup in the post.

We also put the official MKS installation instructions that i found on their website.

https://boulderfixedgear.blogspot.com...ap-lacing.html

Yes, the traditional twist as it goes through the pedal works very well, specially if you have the thicker "laminated" type of strap with the plastic middle layer in them to fight stretching.These thicker straps tend to be much stiffer and should only require one whole twist to stay put. If you are using the thinner single layer leather straps or the nylon woven straps, you might want to put two or more twists in them to stay put. You can also use one of those small screw-on plastic pull buttons (if you can still find them) between the pedal cage supports on the strap to keep it from moving around.

Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV
85(?) Vitus Carbone Plus 7

I can't twist my straps. But I don't need to, because I don't have the slipping problem. I can't twist them, because it shortens them, and as they are, they're never long enough for me. I have very wide feet.

Heh, my right wrist disagrees with you.

On one bike, I cut the straps and bound the ends with electrical tape so they stay put in the pedals unless I tug on them hard, say, at a stop light when I loose my balance in front of a large crowd of snickering high school kids. It works pretty good, even if it is kinda of wimpy.

these pics kinda suck and these are doubles but they show how you should twist the strap through the pedal body. 2cents.

Did you ever try it without the straps?
I don't use them.

That method is good only if your toe clips has a slot for the second strap. If it doesn't, both straps must be run through the pedal.

-Kurt

yea i was just using the pics to demonstrate how the strap should be twisted throught the rear of the pedal body. ignore the second strap.

I understand the need to use a strap twist to avoid it shifting. However, the pad shown in post #9 is installed incorrectly. Frequently the pad is referred to as a buckle pad. But the pads don't do much to insulate the buckle from the shoe. In reality, it is a toe clip pad and it is properly installed on the long part of the clip and then the strap threaded through the strap hole and the slit in the pad. When a strap is properly installed, the buckle is typically kept as close to the pedal as possible in order to avoid issues with the buckle against the shoe.

Who (in their right mind) takes the trouble to tuck the free end into the bottom loop of the buckle? With the end tucked in you can't give it a little pull to snug it up, and you can't readily flick the buckle with your thumb to loosen it either.

Or maybe I've been a dork all these years for riding with the free end flapping in the breeze. Imagine the wind drag I've been fighting.