I tore my Marinoni apart last winter and built it up with period Campagnolo Chorus.
Now, it feels to small. Could it be the set back Chorus seat post?
It rides beautifully and feels the same otherwise. But after riding some of my other bikes lately this Marinoni is feeling very small beneath me.
The seat post is right near the max for height.

Here is a before pic.


And pics of today. I have changed my shoes and am now using Shimano MT41 SPD's for all my riding. Since I have been spending a lot (1200 km lately) on my new Sherpa 30 is that the reason this vintage bike feels so tiny? This is (or was) hands down my favorite ride. Do I need a bigger Marinoni? Maybe I thought this was the size for me.

I told you not to machine wash it.

Have you tried bringing the saddle nose down just a tad more? Looks as if it is tilted upwards slightly more then it was with the previous post.

-Kurt

P.S.: Are you riding in the drops or in the hoods? The previous levers (Dia-Compe Gran Compes?) look as if they sat farther down then the Campag levers you have on it now.

Shorter wheelbase and top tube on the Marinoni maybe? I know that when I ride a "racing" bike it always feels smaller than my "touring" bike, almost cramped.

Smaller = Lighter!

Regards,
J T

I put 30km on it tonight after fiddling with the seat. I do most of my riding on the hoods but the position of the bar seems ok. Its the seat being over 2 inches higher than the seat that I am having some trouble with. The crank arms are 170's, same as before.
The bike doesn't look right to my eye either. But then again I have spent nearly all my time this year on touring bikes.
Maybe I need a frame 2cm larger.

I've noticed a big difference in how a bike feels based on small contact point adjustments. Forgive me if I sound like a Roadie, but I really believe this.

Do you have a bike with contact points that fit you very well? If so, make some measurements and try to match the Marinoni to that. You should at least get to an acceptable position.

I found (no flames please, it's MY experience) on my Mondonico that moving the saddle back 2.5 mm (yes, you can measure that if you're careful) made it feel as "at home" as my Woodrup. How did I know to move it 2.5 mm? I dropped a plumb line from the height ofthe saddle to the center of the pedal spindlewith the pedal forward (3:00), and measured the setback from the string to the saddle nose (both bikes have the same saddle. Difference was 2.5 mm, due to having changed cranks from 170 to 172.5. After readjusting the saddle height and setback once more, I rode and found a happier butt and legs.

What dimensions to match?

1. saddle height, top center to spindle of pedal
2. saddle nose to plumb line, plumbing either to the BB or the forward pedal spindle.
3. saddle nose to front of each brake lever.
4. saddle nose to front (or other repeatable point) on each brake hood.
5. drop from top of saddle to center of handlebar.

With all this consistency, the same saddle tilt (nose-up or nose down) should work (and for me it does) for both bikes. I can't say if this will get the Marinoni to fit like it did, but it should make it fit as well as the other bike.

Again, in this process I found millimeters matter, and that it takes some consistent methodology to match them up.

Road Fan

Thanks for the tips.
I am going to try and set up that saddle with the plumb line method. If I can move the saddle rearward a few mm this would be double at the cranks.
I could then lower the saddle as a result. This may make the bike feel larger.
Could take some time though.

You should start by measuring your cycling inseam. Stand (bare feet, hard floor) with your back to a wall, shove a book up into your crotch so it pushes up hard but is also hard against the wall, and measure the distance to the floor, to the millimeter. You will probably need an assistant. Multiply by 1.09, this is teh starting point for the distance between the center of your saddle top and the center of the pedal spindle, with the cranks aligned with the seat tube. This is just a starting point, and may need to be fine-tuned as you ride and feel things out.

As you move the saddle forward or backward, you may need to raise or lower it slightly to restore correct height.

"... would be double at teh cranks ..." ?? I don't think this makes sense, can you clarify what you mean?

Road Fan

The bike is feeling a lot better. The measurements from the floor gave me a good basline to start. I ended up moving the seat forward and upward a few mm.
I don't know if its feeling better because I've spent the last week on it or because I've spent some time dialing it in.
I am considering shelving the beautiful Campy pedals and installing a set of Shimano SPD's I have laying around as the Campy pedals are getting scratched up.
I guess double at the cranks is the wrong way to vebalize what I was trying to say which was moving the seat up or down effects both the up and down stroke of the crank arms.