"C" my winter project
11-11-08 | 07:24 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 933
From: In transit
Bikes: 07 Vanilla, 98 IRD road frame built up with 25th Ann DA, Surly cross check with 105 comp, 78 Raleigh Comp GS, 85 Centurionelli
"C" my winter project
So I have time for one last winter project before I leave PDX for my next assignment. In honor of what seems to be a time honored C&V tradition I will not reveal the make until the build is finished...but it does figure "C" in the name. So is it a stately Colnago, a racy Ciocc, a classy Cinelli, or maybe even an early pre-aluminum Cannondale experiment with polished aluminum lugs? Time will tell.
I will say that she's going to sport mostly NR components, and I will be keeping the wheels tubulars. I have never owned and used sewups, but when I was a kid that's all you ever heard about. So I'll finally have a steed with them. I'll soon be getting the frame prepped, and then waiting for a warmish day (hah!) to shoot her with framesaver. I'm planning to do the build either Thanksgiving if things go ahead of schedule, or Xmas if things slip. My only real nod to comfort and modernity will be putting on speedplays so I can ride her with my road shoes.
Huge thanks to KRhea for contributing from his secret stash of Campy jewels hid deep in the Cascade mtns.
Hope you like the pics.
https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3143/3023824368_f6e3e19cea.jpg
I will say that she's going to sport mostly NR components, and I will be keeping the wheels tubulars. I have never owned and used sewups, but when I was a kid that's all you ever heard about. So I'll finally have a steed with them. I'll soon be getting the frame prepped, and then waiting for a warmish day (hah!) to shoot her with framesaver. I'm planning to do the build either Thanksgiving if things go ahead of schedule, or Xmas if things slip. My only real nod to comfort and modernity will be putting on speedplays so I can ride her with my road shoes.
Huge thanks to KRhea for contributing from his secret stash of Campy jewels hid deep in the Cascade mtns.
Hope you like the pics.
https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3143/3023824368_f6e3e19cea.jpg
Last edited by poprad; 11-11-08 at 08:03 PM.
11-11-08 | 07:53 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 933
From: In transit
Bikes: 07 Vanilla, 98 IRD road frame built up with 25th Ann DA, Surly cross check with 105 comp, 78 Raleigh Comp GS, 85 Centurionelli
I will not confirm or deny guesses, but promise to be amused by the process.
11-11-08 | 08:29 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 933
From: In transit
Bikes: 07 Vanilla, 98 IRD road frame built up with 25th Ann DA, Surly cross check with 105 comp, 78 Raleigh Comp GS, 85 Centurionelli
Hah! I will also take any useful advice on ancient rim glue removal methods. I was also going to ask how people have gotten old anodizing off Campy cranks, but I ended up using (In pure prior Jarhead fashion) 320 grit and muscle.
11-11-08 | 08:37 PM
#7
Señor Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,475
Likes: 1,563
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Changing my guess to echo jet sanchez. I'll call Chesini also.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
Last edited by USAZorro; 11-11-08 at 08:51 PM.
11-11-08 | 08:40 PM
#8
11-11-08 | 08:43 PM
#11
Banned
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,258
Likes: 14
Most of that glue looks like it would just flake off. A wire brush (brass) is helpful. There's no sense in getting carried away with removal, you don't need a claen surface to glue.
To remove anodizing, use EZ Off oven cleaner, not the new 'eco friendly' stuff, but the old fashioned stuff that has lye, or any off brand that contains mostly lye. Be careful, especially with your eyes. I end up with a finer grit paper, more like 1000 wet, and then to the buffing wheel after that.
Good advice from a master here:
https://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/
To remove anodizing, use EZ Off oven cleaner, not the new 'eco friendly' stuff, but the old fashioned stuff that has lye, or any off brand that contains mostly lye. Be careful, especially with your eyes. I end up with a finer grit paper, more like 1000 wet, and then to the buffing wheel after that.
Good advice from a master here:
https://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/
11-11-08 | 09:33 PM
#16
No lugs? No hugs.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver, Canada
Bikes: '85 Miyata 310, '06 GT Performer
Most of that glue looks like it would just flake off. A wire brush (brass) is helpful. There's no sense in getting carried away with removal, you don't need a claen surface to glue.
To remove anodizing, use EZ Off oven cleaner, not the new 'eco friendly' stuff, but the old fashioned stuff that has lye, or any off brand that contains mostly lye. Be careful, especially with your eyes. I end up with a finer grit paper, more like 1000 wet, and then to the buffing wheel after that.
Good advice from a master here:
https://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/
To remove anodizing, use EZ Off oven cleaner, not the new 'eco friendly' stuff, but the old fashioned stuff that has lye, or any off brand that contains mostly lye. Be careful, especially with your eyes. I end up with a finer grit paper, more like 1000 wet, and then to the buffing wheel after that.
Good advice from a master here:
https://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/
11-11-08 | 09:46 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 933
From: In transit
Bikes: 07 Vanilla, 98 IRD road frame built up with 25th Ann DA, Surly cross check with 105 comp, 78 Raleigh Comp GS, 85 Centurionelli
Most of that glue looks like it would just flake off. A wire brush (brass) is helpful. There's no sense in getting carried away with removal, you don't need a claen surface to glue.
To remove anodizing, use EZ Off oven cleaner, not the new 'eco friendly' stuff, but the old fashioned stuff that has lye, or any off brand that contains mostly lye. Be careful, especially with your eyes. I end up with a finer grit paper, more like 1000 wet, and then to the buffing wheel after that.
Good advice from a master here:
https://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/
To remove anodizing, use EZ Off oven cleaner, not the new 'eco friendly' stuff, but the old fashioned stuff that has lye, or any off brand that contains mostly lye. Be careful, especially with your eyes. I end up with a finer grit paper, more like 1000 wet, and then to the buffing wheel after that.
Good advice from a master here:
https://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/
As it is I am using 320, then 600, then 1000 grit and that seems to work fairly well. The nooks and crannies of the drive side have me with cramped fingers.
11-11-08 | 10:48 PM
#18
Banned
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,258
Likes: 14
The newer versions of EZ Off are made without lye, or with very little lye.
As poprad noted, you don't want to leave it on the part too long, or you won't have much of a part left. Usually 4 or 5 minutes will suffice. A 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water will neutralize pure lye. Use rubber gloves and eye protection whenever you use chemicals. Lye will blind you.
11-16-08 | 04:49 PM
#25
I haven't had occasion to do this, but you know, the "Peel-Away" paint remover (at least the standard stuff, I think #1) is a caustic. Has anyone tried that to remove anodizing?