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Using Bar End Shifters

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Old 12-13-08 | 06:38 PM
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Using Bar End Shifters

So I know this may be the wrong thread to ask about my 08 commuter, but it is about older style things so maybe it is okay.

On my hybrid style commuter I have replaced the original flat bars with drops and I want to clear my dashboard. I can not mount stem or down/top tube shifters because of the compatibility, so it leads me to either bar end or brifters, and brifters don't work with v brakes. So bar ends it is.

So I was wondering how hard it is to use bar ends? I have used stem shifters and don't mind shifting them, except when I am standing.

On a side note on my 73 continental when I am peddling along sometimes the bike will shift itself...or maybe my knee is hitting the stem shifters, but i don't think so...what to do about this problem?
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Old 12-13-08 | 07:08 PM
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The Continental shifting itself could simply mean that you need to tighten the nut holding the shifter.

Bar end shifters are pretty easy to use, and you would have the choice of getting newer Shimano (assuming your drive train is Shimano or compatible SRAM) and having it indexed or going old school with Suntour Power Ratcheting. The Suntour would be about $25-35 used and the Shimano would be a bit more.
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Old 12-13-08 | 09:32 PM
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Bar ends are easy to use. Think of downtube shifters at your bar ends. Pretty much says it all.
I have some DA 8-sp and they are automatic. Period.
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Old 12-13-08 | 10:44 PM
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Bikes: Crap. The box is not big enough...

you can run brifters with v-brakes. There's a pulley dealie that'll take up the extra cable that you need to get the brakes to actuate. I have 'em on my Tandem, and they work great. (I shouldn't admit to that, here in friction-shifter land).

That said, most any indexing bar end shifter works as well as brifters, way cheaper.
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Old 12-13-08 | 11:28 PM
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There's a pulley dealie that'll take up the extra cable that you need to get the brakes to actuate.
When you go to the LBS and ask for a " pulley dealie that'll take up the extra cable that you need to get the brakes to actuate", and they will cock their head sideways, jaw slightly slack, thinking about your worthiness to even stand on the floor in front of them, and then you will add "I believe they are called "roll-a-ma-jigs"'.

You will then think "What have I just said and how stupid do I look". BUT, the LBS will then give you what you want. I think they generally run $20 a piece. You will need one each, front and back.
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Old 12-14-08 | 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by balindamood
When you go to the LBS and ask for a " pulley dealie that'll take up the extra cable that you need to get the brakes to actuate", and they will cock their head sideways, jaw slightly slack, thinking about your worthiness to even stand on the floor in front of them, and then you will add "I believe they are called "roll-a-ma-jigs"'.

You will then think "What have I just said and how stupid do I look". BUT, the LBS will then give you what you want. I think they generally run $20 a piece. You will need one each, front and back.


...........so what are these roll-a-ma-jigs called specifically?
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Old 12-14-08 | 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by maxd
...........so what are these roll-a-ma-jigs called specifically?
That is their name.

I think Tektro makes them too minus the name and for less money. Just ask your bike shop for the adapters to run v brakes with road levers. If they are competent then they should know what you are talking about.
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Old 12-14-08 | 08:30 AM
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Try asking for 'travel agents'?
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Old 12-14-08 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Fibber
Try asking for 'travel agents'?
+1, they're travel agents.

Rollamajigs are made by Avid, they go near the rear derailleur on that last swoop of cable before the cable gets to the derailleur. They're especially useful on full suspension mountain bikes, where the angle of the bike's rear triangle changes as it moves-
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Old 12-14-08 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by balindamood
When you go to the LBS and ask for a " pulley dealie that'll take up the extra cable that you need to get the brakes to actuate", and they will cock their head sideways, jaw slightly slack, thinking about your worthiness to even stand on the floor in front of them
Hahaha! Reminds me of one local store manned primarily by BMX kids, they do that in response to 65% of my requests for items.

In a non bike related instance, I once asked a young lady staff member at a Bed, Bath and Beyond if they stocked bookends and got a similar response. (Well, without the "worthless to even stand on the floor" bit. She was curious, asking "What are they for?")

Have bookends become that rare?!?!?!

Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 12-14-08 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 12-14-08 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets

In a non bike related instance, I once asked a young lady staff member at a Bed, Bath and Beyond if they stocked bookends and got a similar response. (Well, without the "worthless to even stand on the floor" bit. She was curious, asking "What are they for?")

Have bookends become that rare?!?!?!
no, I don't think so. isn't BB&B bankrupt and going out of business? I thought I read that somewhere.
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Old 12-14-08 | 11:44 AM
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No, that is Linens N Things, but the level of cluelessness is about the same....
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Old 12-14-08 | 11:54 AM
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Bikes: Crap. The box is not big enough...

If I went into the bike store after three glasses of wine, I'd surely ask for pulley dealies. My LBS would be able to translate.
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Old 12-14-08 | 04:55 PM
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Only the best LBS's can translate my drunken mumbles into money for them.

Bar end shifters are your friend, they work just as well as brifters and cost an 2/3s of an order of magnitude less.
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Old 12-14-08 | 04:59 PM
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Thanks for the advice..and ummm...ways to ask for travel agents...
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Old 12-14-08 | 04:59 PM
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Next question, how do you install bar ends?
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Old 12-14-08 | 05:28 PM
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Bikes: Crap. The box is not big enough...

The lever must be removed from the bracket. Inside the bracket there is a large allen key fitting. The bracket is inserted into the handlebar, and the allen key is turned counter clockwise until it is tight. then you replace the lever, just like it came off.

Oh, hey. Congratulations on the weight loss.
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Old 12-14-08 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Rabid Koala
No, that is Linens N Things, but the level of cluelessness is about the same....
my mistake, they both suck pretty bad. I remember going into a BB&B awhile back and asking for a mirror that doesn't fog up in the shower, I got a blank stare on that one.

Originally Posted by fuzz2050
Only the best LBS's can translate my drunken mumbles into money for them.

Bar end shifters are your friend, they work just as well as brifters and cost an 2/3s of an order of magnitude less.
and way cooler as well, IMHO. Brifters always feel too loose and sloppy too me, like shifting in one of those "manumatic" transmission cars
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Old 12-14-08 | 05:43 PM
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Pay attention to Luker's post: They are lefty tighty, righty loosey.... opposite what you might think. It is a very unusual piece of hardware. The head is actually in the handlebar tube, and they have tapped an allen key hole into the end of the threaded shaft. (at least that is how vintage Sun Tour end shifters are configured).

Want to know how I know this? Being an idiot, I busted one by accident getting it off an old handlebar. I had no idea it would be effectively a left handed thread arrangement. I re-machined a cap screw to replace the original, and tapped the remaining center hole to make it work again. Three hours extra work because I didn't know better!

Last edited by Fibber; 12-14-08 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 12-14-08 | 05:50 PM
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Where do the wires run? In the bars? Or along the bars?
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Old 12-14-08 | 05:59 PM
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Bikes: Crap. The box is not big enough...

The standard way to route the wires is under the drop, out at the first bend, under the tape. Then a big loop in the cable housing, back to the frame. I have also seen 'em routed all of the way under the tape, and then out at the end of the wrap and down to the frame, but I've never tried this. I hear that it works okeydokey, though.
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Old 12-14-08 | 07:46 PM
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I like the nice graceful loop of cable out from the handlebars and to the downtube cable stops.

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Old 12-14-08 | 08:04 PM
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Years ago have actually run the cables inside the handlebars by cutting a notch about 1" from end of bar and drilled hole about 2" from the stem.
Was told that it would cause the alu handlebar to crack. Well 56,000 miles later the handle bars and the bar ends are still working just fine.
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Old 12-14-08 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by luker
The standard way to route the wires is under the drop, out at the first bend, under the tape. Then a big loop in the cable housing, back to the frame. I have also seen 'em routed all of the way under the tape, and then out at the end of the wrap and down to the frame, but I've never tried this. I hear that it works okeydokey, though.
Bar end shifters are great. On one bike I routed the cable a few inches under the tape. On three other bikes I just let it loop forward then down to the guides on the down tube.
The shifters are more flexible and durable then STI. They are also much cheaper. I just ordered some DuraAce 8/9 speed bar end shifters on Ebay for about $55 with all the cables.

Bar end shifters are easier to reach than down tube, don't get hit by your knees while standing, and are easy to shift with bulky gloves on in winter.
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Old 12-14-08 | 08:47 PM
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I have bar end shifters on 2 of my bikes. I love them. I adore the look and feel of the new SRAM ones...but they don't have friction mode. Same for Campy. They look stunning, but no friction mode. So, I have a set of DA 10 speed one and a set of 8 speed ones. I also have a NOS set of SunTour bar ends that I'll use on something someday.
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