Well constructed frames vs sloppy messes
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That Remy uses a motif darn close to Colnago, I am surprised Ernesto did not club them.
#52
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maybe it doesn't fit the title of the thread perfectly, and if theres another thread on this please forgive my stoopitude, but i know that one area i look at when deciding whether to buy or pass on a bike are the dropouts--stamped vs forged, brazed vs crimped, etc. anyone have any thoughts on that? i have come to some conclusions of my own but i wonder if there's anyone else out there who might need or like to be able to tell the difference between these various dropout types.
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maybe it doesn't fit the title of the thread perfectly, and if theres another thread on this please forgive my stoopitude, but i know that one area i look at when deciding whether to buy or pass on a bike are the dropouts--stamped vs forged, brazed vs crimped, etc. anyone have any thoughts on that? i have come to some conclusions of my own but i wonder if there's anyone else out there who might need or like to be able to tell the difference between these various dropout types.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#54
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that is well worth knowing, thanks for that. BTW is that an adjustable reach stem on that baby? do they still make something like that? seems like a great idea.
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that brings up another question, i suppose--how does a newbie tell a stamped D.O. from a forged? any pictorial examples? i always assumed the ones with the raised area around the slot and sort of rounded edges were forged and the ones that look very very flat with sharp edges are stamped, is that right in general?
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that brings up another question, i suppose--how does a newbie tell a stamped D.O. from a forged? any pictorial examples? i always assumed the ones with the raised area around the slot and sort of rounded edges were forged and the ones that look very very flat with sharp edges are stamped, is that right in general?
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that brings up another question, i suppose--how does a newbie tell a stamped D.O. from a forged? any pictorial examples? i always assumed the ones with the raised area around the slot and sort of rounded edges were forged and the ones that look very very flat with sharp edges are stamped, is that right in general?
-Kurt
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maybe it doesn't fit the title of the thread perfectly, and if theres another thread on this please forgive my stoopitude, but i know that one area i look at when deciding whether to buy or pass on a bike are the dropouts--stamped vs forged, brazed vs crimped, etc. anyone have any thoughts on that? i have come to some conclusions of my own but i wonder if there's anyone else out there who might need or like to be able to tell the difference between these various dropout types.
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Adding to fearfeasog's question, does the "well constructed" vs. "sloppy mess" discussion extend to alignment of the dropouts, specifically the fork tips? The tips on my '93 Corsa Extra are nowhere near parallel. I'm not the original owner so I don't really know - how much slop would you expect here?
-Kurt
#61
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Adding to fearfeasog's question, does the "well constructed" vs. "sloppy mess" discussion extend to alignment of the dropouts, specifically the fork tips? The tips on my '93 Corsa Extra are nowhere near parallel. I'm not the original owner so I don't really know - how much slop would you expect here?
Cold setting dropouts so that they're parallel can be done using the Park Tool FFG-2 Dropout Alignment Gauge or similar. Note the caution about cold setting aluminum, titanium, carbon fiber, or suspension forks.
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#1 is a Panasonic made Schwinn Peloton. Columbus SL/P tubing. Notice that the stays are 'tacked' into place before brazing
#2 is a Pro Miyata. Not bad for mass produced frame. Tubes are properly mitered. Some companies simply bend the tube over where it butts up against the other.
#3 is a Waterford Paramount
#4 is a Columbus SL Tommasini with tack welds
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I knew it couldn't have been #3 because it was just a little too clean. Incidendly that is what a marinoni looks like.. perfection!
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#66
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Open up a gas-pipe Atala if you want to see an extreme example of this. Solid threads in the BB, from one end to the other.
It isn't uncommon to find nice machines with threading marks from one end to the other though. Have a look the next time you're re-packing an Italian BB.
-Kurt
It isn't uncommon to find nice machines with threading marks from one end to the other though. Have a look the next time you're re-packing an Italian BB.
-Kurt
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The only lug shot I have of my 1983 3Rensho. I will try and get shots to compare it versus my 85ish Colnago Sprint and my 86 Paramount.
#69
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1987 Paramount (Waterford) lugwork.
#71
Strong Walker
spot the gaspipe frame
but i think its rather redundant comparing low price frames to the likes of Confente or 3Rensho, its not hard to spot that difference. What is more interesting, is to spot differences in high-lvl frames.
So, here's a little contest for ya, spot the Zunow, Mike Appel, Merckx and Casati (1st to not find the Zunow wins a pair of eyeglasses). Shouldn't be to hard!
I think these pictures show a lot about the art of framebuilding...
but i think its rather redundant comparing low price frames to the likes of Confente or 3Rensho, its not hard to spot that difference. What is more interesting, is to spot differences in high-lvl frames.
So, here's a little contest for ya, spot the Zunow, Mike Appel, Merckx and Casati (1st to not find the Zunow wins a pair of eyeglasses). Shouldn't be to hard!
I think these pictures show a lot about the art of framebuilding...
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Hanging around C&V I see alot of talk about frame craftsman ship, things like lug filing, brazing, paint etc. What I want to know is what does a great frame look like, and what does a poor frame look like? Take for example this Confente frame that just sold:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...0%3D%26fvi%3D1
I have read comments in a previous post about there being some flaws in the build quality, what are they? What does a sloppy bike boom Raleigh look like, what does a good bike boom Raleigh look like? I am not asking this to be silly, I am genuinly interested in what I am asking. Are frames by Masi, Confente Mercx, Cinelli and the like of superior build compared to a Schwinn Paramount or Raleigh Professional? Or is it purely the mojo of a frame handbuilt in a small shop by a known master? Pictures help.
Thanks!
-Matt
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...0%3D%26fvi%3D1
I have read comments in a previous post about there being some flaws in the build quality, what are they? What does a sloppy bike boom Raleigh look like, what does a good bike boom Raleigh look like? I am not asking this to be silly, I am genuinly interested in what I am asking. Are frames by Masi, Confente Mercx, Cinelli and the like of superior build compared to a Schwinn Paramount or Raleigh Professional? Or is it purely the mojo of a frame handbuilt in a small shop by a known master? Pictures help.
Thanks!
-Matt
#73
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Oh man.... that looks like a Raleigh fork?
Matt
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#75
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Are the lugs spot-welded on that Raleigh? The bottom of the head tube-top tube lug sure does look like it.