Sturmey Archer Question
#1
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From: St. Louis, MO
Sturmey Archer Question
Heys guys... Is it possible to swap AW innards into a TCW shell thus removing the coaster?
Alternatively, can the coaster be removed from a TCW allowing it to freewheel??
TIA
Mark in St. Louis
Alternatively, can the coaster be removed from a TCW allowing it to freewheel??
TIA
Mark in St. Louis
#3
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: St. Louis, MO
Well...I built up a TCW into a new Sun Cr-18, stainless spokes, etc. and changed my mind and decided I would like to add a rear caliper brake instead of the coaster. This is on my '63 Huffy Sportsman FWIW.
Obviously, I would prefer to do an internals swap as opposed to rebuilding the wheel after only a few months use.
So...Any idea if the guts are swappable...or...???
-Mark
Obviously, I would prefer to do an internals swap as opposed to rebuilding the wheel after only a few months use.
So...Any idea if the guts are swappable...or...???
-Mark
#4
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From: Rhode Island (an obscure suburb of Connecticut)
Bikes: one of each
I don't think so, but go to this page and check all the links at the bottom;
https://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html
I think this one is the most likely to have some good pics of each hub;
https://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~ha...samaintind.htm
https://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html
I think this one is the most likely to have some good pics of each hub;
https://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~ha...samaintind.htm
#5
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: St. Louis, MO
Hey...Thanx for the links. It appears that the shells are completely different. I guess my next hope is that the OD of the AW shell flange matches the OD of the TCW shell flange and I can do a straight swap.
TA
-Mark
TA
-Mark
I don't think so, but go to this page and check all the links at the bottom;
https://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html
I think this one is the most likely to have some good pics of each hub;
https://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~ha...samaintind.htm
https://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html
I think this one is the most likely to have some good pics of each hub;
https://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~ha...samaintind.htm
#6
Phyllo-buster


Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Nova Scotia
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
A TCW does freewheel, you just can't backpedal. Seems to me you should just add the caliper brake?
The flanges and spoke lengths are identical so you can rebuild the wheel but it's not easy like changing rims. Gotta unlace and start from scratch.
The flanges and spoke lengths are identical so you can rebuild the wheel but it's not easy like changing rims. Gotta unlace and start from scratch.
#7
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From: St. Louis, MO
Hey...Sorry my terms were wrong...I want to be able to backpedal.
I've already added the rear caliper...everything works fine (except TCW coaster is weak as you probably know).
This isn't a pressing issue...I will probably just hand the wheel and AW over to my neighborhood shop sometime.
Thanx
-Mark
I've already added the rear caliper...everything works fine (except TCW coaster is weak as you probably know).
This isn't a pressing issue...I will probably just hand the wheel and AW over to my neighborhood shop sometime.
Thanx
-Mark
#9
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From: St. Louis, MO
#11
Elitest Murray Owner
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Bikes: 1972 Columbia Tourist Expert III, Columbia Roadster
It would be more of a hassle than just lacing up a wheel with the right hub for what you need.
I don't know what the brake design is in the TCW, but removing the brake shoes would only remove the ability to brake, without introducing the ability to backpedal in most coaster brakes because of the way the drive clutches work.
I don't know what the brake design is in the TCW, but removing the brake shoes would only remove the ability to brake, without introducing the ability to backpedal in most coaster brakes because of the way the drive clutches work.
#12
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From: St. Louis, MO
Thanx for the info...I'm sure I will eventually just have the hubs swapped out.
TA
-Mark
TA
-Mark
It would be more of a hassle than just lacing up a wheel with the right hub for what you need.
I don't know what the brake design is in the TCW, but removing the brake shoes would only remove the ability to brake, without introducing the ability to backpedal in most coaster brakes because of the way the drive clutches work.
I don't know what the brake design is in the TCW, but removing the brake shoes would only remove the ability to brake, without introducing the ability to backpedal in most coaster brakes because of the way the drive clutches work.
#13
1991 PBP Anciens

Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Elburn, Illannoy
Bikes: 1964 Dunelt, 196? Dunelt Flyer, 1968 Raleigh Superbe, 1969 Robin Hood, 197? Gitane, 1970 Gitane Mexico, 1973 Raleigh SuperCourse, 1970 Raleigh Sports, 1970 Huffy Sportsman, 1981 Miyata 710, 1990 Miyata 600GT, 1999 Trek 830AL, 2007 Rivendell Bleriot,
It can be done. Just did it today with an SC3. Somewhat involved but easier than building another wheel. The SC3 and TCWIII are quite similar.
What needs to be done is to 'degut' both hubs, drive the left hand ratchet ring from the TCW shell. Then drive the left hand ball cup from the AW shell and drive it into the TCW shell where the ratchet ring was. Reassemble. Done.
This is assuming that both hubs are post 1963. Earlier AW hub lh ball cups are threaded. With the exception of the 1957-58 SW, SA hub shells are pretty much the same.
What needs to be done is to 'degut' both hubs, drive the left hand ratchet ring from the TCW shell. Then drive the left hand ball cup from the AW shell and drive it into the TCW shell where the ratchet ring was. Reassemble. Done.
This is assuming that both hubs are post 1963. Earlier AW hub lh ball cups are threaded. With the exception of the 1957-58 SW, SA hub shells are pretty much the same.
#14
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From: St. Louis, MO
Hey bikamper... I'll have to take a look at that. My TCW is a '63 and the AW I have sitting here is a '70.
Good to know.
Thanx,
-Mark in St. Louis
Good to know.
Thanx,
-Mark in St. Louis
It can be done. Just did it today with an SC3. Somewhat involved but easier than building another wheel. The SC3 and TCWIII are quite similar.
What needs to be done is to 'degut' both hubs, drive the left hand ratchet ring from the TCW shell. Then drive the left hand ball cup from the AW shell and drive it into the TCW shell where the ratchet ring was. Reassemble. Done.
This is assuming that both hubs are post 1963. Earlier AW hub lh ball cups are threaded. With the exception of the 1957-58 SW, SA hub shells are pretty much the same.
What needs to be done is to 'degut' both hubs, drive the left hand ratchet ring from the TCW shell. Then drive the left hand ball cup from the AW shell and drive it into the TCW shell where the ratchet ring was. Reassemble. Done.
This is assuming that both hubs are post 1963. Earlier AW hub lh ball cups are threaded. With the exception of the 1957-58 SW, SA hub shells are pretty much the same.
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