For the love of English 3 speeds...
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Wow, one excellent Sports there! I'd like to know about the saddle bag. I never see those early ones in useable condition. Is that a period bag that somehow survived or is someone making reproductions?
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
So on my way to work earlier this week, the left side of the BB spindle on my 1952 Sports snapped off. I've had mixed feelings on this bike since I got it...I think it looks really cool with the rust and general patina, and my goal with it has been to keep it looking the way it does for lock-up-all-day theft resistance, but having it as close as achievable to mechanical perfection. On the other hand, it's been kind of a slog to ride, even after overhauling the BB and pedals, and swapping out the 18-tooth cog for a 19-tooth one, and I find the crank arms to be a bit short, especially compared to the ones on my Tourist.
So after breaking the BB spindle and getting a replacement, I did a somewhat more thorough overhaul (I actually removed the fixed cup this time!), and then also decided to take a shot at overhauling the DynoHub, which was making an occasional tink-clunk sound, but otherwise functional. I also spent some time straightening out the cranks (the right side was actually twisted a little bit), and changed the saddle angle a bit, and put new tires on. The whole thing is feeling a lot smoother now, although I'm thinking about putting a 170mm cottered crank on it, and I also have a color-mismatched-but-similar-condition chaincase that I'm planning to install at some point.
In the meantime, though, I've finally taken some decent pictures of it!
So after breaking the BB spindle and getting a replacement, I did a somewhat more thorough overhaul (I actually removed the fixed cup this time!), and then also decided to take a shot at overhauling the DynoHub, which was making an occasional tink-clunk sound, but otherwise functional. I also spent some time straightening out the cranks (the right side was actually twisted a little bit), and changed the saddle angle a bit, and put new tires on. The whole thing is feeling a lot smoother now, although I'm thinking about putting a 170mm cottered crank on it, and I also have a color-mismatched-but-similar-condition chaincase that I'm planning to install at some point.
In the meantime, though, I've finally taken some decent pictures of it!
Senior Member
@agmetal, it looks beautiful in its ugly glory, but don't feel bad if it doesn't work for you as a rider. As much as I love these bikes, I could never get used to them as regular riders. You can build a beater out of an old 10-speed bike, and it will be lighter and more, well, spritely.
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,509
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 511 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7354 Post(s)
Liked 2,488 Times
in
1,443 Posts
There is a lot to what makes people prefer one thing over another. One is whatever you're used to, and another is your own physique. I'm lightweight, and heavy people might not like the stuff I like, because it's flexy. I can't flex bikes so easily, because I just don't have the mass to do it. There might be a science behind that, and I don't know if it's been explored, how we can predict what kind of bike someone would like from their physique.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Senior Member
The two most popular are probably the Schwalbe Delta cruiser in cream color and the favorite of those that know, the Panaracer Col De La Vie which now seems to be called the Randonnee. With that name, how bad can it be? They're a little fatter than the typical 1 3/8 650A tire, the ones I have actually say 1 1/2 on the sidewall, and I had trouble getting them to seat uniformly on Sun CR18 rims, but lots of people really love these tires. Some claim they are the best 650A tires ever to roll on the face of the earth -- or any other planet. They are very good looking, too.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
There is a lot to what makes people prefer one thing over another. One is whatever you're used to, and another is your own physique. I'm lightweight, and heavy people might not like the stuff I like, because it's flexy. I can't flex bikes so easily, because I just don't have the mass to do it. There might be a science behind that, and I don't know if it's been explored, how we can predict what kind of bike someone would like from their physique.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
18 Posts
When I say it felt like a slog to ride, I'm comparing it to the larger, heavier, and older 1937 Tourist that I ride more frequently. I think I fixed most of this with the bearing overhauls I did...I think my biggest complaint seems to be the shorter crank length on the Sports. It's still at the shop though, I haven't had a chance to take it for a longer ride since doing that work.
Also, @BigChief - I have no plans to "fix" the shifter on that bike...that's part of what I like about it, and it works perfectly!
Also, @BigChief - I have no plans to "fix" the shifter on that bike...that's part of what I like about it, and it works perfectly!
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,181
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 870 Times
in
332 Posts
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Last edited by SirMike1983; 11-20-16 at 06:27 PM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Yes, the size is perfect and the overall shape, except for the snaps instead of buckles and straps is very similar to the older style original equipment bags. An excellent choice. Now I know exactly what I want for my roadster. Thanks
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,049
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 339 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 632 Times
in
229 Posts
Another Raleigh Sport from the Boke Exchange
Last Saturday we had a work day at the Bike Exchange. I get there early to open up and pull bikes out of the
pile (s) for the volunteers to work on. Saturday we were doing kids bikes. While rooting around I saw in the back corner a blue Raleigh Sport and put it in the truck to work on at home.
I already have it apart (Mens 21" frame) and am now cleaning, de rusting, and polishing. I checked the serial no. stamped on the seat lug ( 164189) but couldn't find it in the Serial no. data base. I checked the Sturmey Archer hub and it has 69 as a date.
Hard to believe this bike is that old. The candy blue paint is in remarkable condition. I guess it spent a lot of time safely stored somewhere. There was a lot of rust on the handle bars and stem so I went rummaging around in our warehouse space and found another bar and stem in much better shape. Had very nice grips too.
The wheels are a little rusty but nowhere near as bad as the last one I worked on. They should polish up pretty well. The tires are almost new looking Dunlop Champions ( original tires?) and the rear still holds air.
It didn't have a seat so I went back to the warehouse and found a Chinese made "Deluxe Sport" mattress saddle that looks like an exact copy of the Brooks.
One unusual detail was the pedals. They are solid platforms with an oval front and back with inset reflectors and the Raleigh logo embossed in the rubber platform.
I am going back out to the garage today to clean up the chrome side pull brakes and start on the rims .
When I get it back together I will take a few pictures to share.
I am lucky in that there is another long time volunteer that is a Raleigh 3 speed aficionado. He is source of inspiration, guidance and knowledge on these old bikes. I just have to get there early or he might grab a new
(to us ) donation bike before I can pounce on it.
pile (s) for the volunteers to work on. Saturday we were doing kids bikes. While rooting around I saw in the back corner a blue Raleigh Sport and put it in the truck to work on at home.
I already have it apart (Mens 21" frame) and am now cleaning, de rusting, and polishing. I checked the serial no. stamped on the seat lug ( 164189) but couldn't find it in the Serial no. data base. I checked the Sturmey Archer hub and it has 69 as a date.
Hard to believe this bike is that old. The candy blue paint is in remarkable condition. I guess it spent a lot of time safely stored somewhere. There was a lot of rust on the handle bars and stem so I went rummaging around in our warehouse space and found another bar and stem in much better shape. Had very nice grips too.
The wheels are a little rusty but nowhere near as bad as the last one I worked on. They should polish up pretty well. The tires are almost new looking Dunlop Champions ( original tires?) and the rear still holds air.
It didn't have a seat so I went back to the warehouse and found a Chinese made "Deluxe Sport" mattress saddle that looks like an exact copy of the Brooks.
One unusual detail was the pedals. They are solid platforms with an oval front and back with inset reflectors and the Raleigh logo embossed in the rubber platform.
I am going back out to the garage today to clean up the chrome side pull brakes and start on the rims .
When I get it back together I will take a few pictures to share.
I am lucky in that there is another long time volunteer that is a Raleigh 3 speed aficionado. He is source of inspiration, guidance and knowledge on these old bikes. I just have to get there early or he might grab a new
(to us ) donation bike before I can pounce on it.
Senior Member
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,598
Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 359 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times
in
120 Posts
Today is Day 1 of my '59 Sports restoration (full dyno, B66). I went out in the garage and looked at it.
Most of the cleaning is basic stuff, elbow grease and magic chemicals.
I found plenty of grips on line if I need some, and will likely get the saddle re-done.
I'll be using the dyno with regular bulbs until I find a regulated LED setup where I can hide the regulators somewhere.
Still looking for a front basket/dog carrier that won't cost more than the bike. 7-lb dog.
Were the racks all black or color-matched?
Suggestions on tires?
They're in great shape, all black, but I think I'm going to go gumwall or sidewall on this one.
Suggestions on brake pads?
Suggestions on cleaning the galvanized spokes? (or just leave them alone, as galvanizing intended?)
My go-to thread for the next 3-4 months.
Most of the cleaning is basic stuff, elbow grease and magic chemicals.
I found plenty of grips on line if I need some, and will likely get the saddle re-done.
I'll be using the dyno with regular bulbs until I find a regulated LED setup where I can hide the regulators somewhere.
Still looking for a front basket/dog carrier that won't cost more than the bike. 7-lb dog.
Were the racks all black or color-matched?
Suggestions on tires?
They're in great shape, all black, but I think I'm going to go gumwall or sidewall on this one.
Suggestions on brake pads?
Suggestions on cleaning the galvanized spokes? (or just leave them alone, as galvanizing intended?)
My go-to thread for the next 3-4 months.
If the rims are not badly rusted just clean up the wheels as best you can. Steel wool, aluminum foil with lemon juice both work pretty well on the chrome and galvanized. Make sure you are careful with the Dynohub (improper disassembly will demagnetize it) but the axle is a special design (see Sheldon Brown's site) that makes it easy to service once you understand the design; at any rate the bearings will benefit from some attention. OTOH, the rear hub likely needs a treatment of WD-40 in the oil port and a brisk 3 mile ride, after which the contents of the hub should be drained and replaced with a good lubricant (I use Dextron-style automatic transmission fluid; works a treat). The cones on the rear hub should be ever so slightly loose (this is best sensed at the rim rather than the hub itself).
If the rims are badly rusted polishing and rechroming these days is impractical unless cost is no object. Replace the rims with Sun CR-18s and might as well use stainless spokes (Raleigh used stainless in the old days).
Get a cotter pin press so you can service the bottom bracket. Good quality cotter pins are very hard to find so you want to reuse the old ones. If you just a hammer to extract them they will be destroyed (do not attempt to use a hammer without using the cotter press first!!). The angles ground on the side of the cotter pin is pretty specific so this is one you don't want to mess up. If you have a cotter pin press you will be amazed at how easy cottered cranks are to service!! The Bikesmith press is pretty decent BikeSmith Design and Fabrication
Make sure you have a metal pulley wheel and metal cable stop for the shift. I'm pretty sure you do- I think I saw a metal pulley on that bike when I saw it at the Dairyland Dare (**really** nice price BTW...). If you don't you might want to contact Jon the Gentleman Cyclist though the Lake Pepin 3-speed tour website (and of course, you should be riding that bike on that tour this upcoming May...).
The Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour
If installing a rack you go with either a Pletcher or a Presstube (the latter being the correct stock part if a rack was included initially). The Pletchers are solid and excellent quality- and also correct for almost any vintage machine from 1956 or so up to about 1979.
Your pedals can be serviced. The bearing quality is excellent! Don't lose the dustcaps!
The salmon Koolstops are the goto brake pad especially if you are keeping the chrome rims. I concede that the original carriers for the original John Bull pads are rather charming, but trust me on this, the John Bull pads are terrible even if you find them NOS. Don't set up the brakes super close to the rims. Give them a bit of room and that will help your hands be able to really squeeze the brakes properly!! The brakes should be set up so you have at least 1/4" of play on the brake levers. Do your best to clean and lubricate the original brake cables- replacing them will require in most older cases someone to construct the cable for you. The housing and the fixtures on the ends are the issues. So treat them with care and respect and they will do you well!
Have fun! and remember that the bike was not meant to be light but instead was meant to be reliable transportation that if treated right will easily last 100 years.
Bike Doctor
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 141
Bikes: Norco Cape Cod tandem, KHS Tandemania Cross, 1952 Claud Butler ladyback tandem, 1971 & '73 Raleigh Suberbes, 1985 Gazelle Sport Solide, 1985 Rossi professional
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked 52 Times
in
24 Posts
Your bike looks a lot like my '73 Superbe, but you need rack extenders like I made for mine
The pic by itself was with aluminum rims and stainless spokes. The pic with both my Superbes is with original rims, and scothbrited spokes.
The pic by itself was with aluminum rims and stainless spokes. The pic with both my Superbes is with original rims, and scothbrited spokes.
Last edited by bazil4696; 11-21-16 at 03:00 PM.
Bike Doctor
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 141
Bikes: Norco Cape Cod tandem, KHS Tandemania Cross, 1952 Claud Butler ladyback tandem, 1971 & '73 Raleigh Suberbes, 1985 Gazelle Sport Solide, 1985 Rossi professional
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked 52 Times
in
24 Posts
Very cool.
Today is Day 1 of my '59 Sports restoration (full dyno, B66). I went out in the garage and looked at it.
Most of the cleaning is basic stuff, elbow grease and magic chemicals.
I found plenty of grips on line if I need some, and will likely get the saddle re-done.
I'll be using the dyno with regular bulbs until I find a regulated LED setup where I can hide the regulators somewhere.
Still looking for a front basket/dog carrier that won't cost more than the bike. 7-lb dog.
Were the racks all black or color-matched?
Suggestions on tires?
They're in great shape, all black, but I think I'm going to go gumwall or sidewall on this one.
Suggestions on brake pads?
Suggestions on cleaning the galvanized spokes? (or just leave them alone, as galvanizing intended?)
My go-to thread for the next 3-4 months.
Today is Day 1 of my '59 Sports restoration (full dyno, B66). I went out in the garage and looked at it.
Most of the cleaning is basic stuff, elbow grease and magic chemicals.
I found plenty of grips on line if I need some, and will likely get the saddle re-done.
I'll be using the dyno with regular bulbs until I find a regulated LED setup where I can hide the regulators somewhere.
Still looking for a front basket/dog carrier that won't cost more than the bike. 7-lb dog.
Were the racks all black or color-matched?
Suggestions on tires?
They're in great shape, all black, but I think I'm going to go gumwall or sidewall on this one.
Suggestions on brake pads?
Suggestions on cleaning the galvanized spokes? (or just leave them alone, as galvanizing intended?)
My go-to thread for the next 3-4 months.
Senior Member
Forgive the slight off topic, but on this day Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II wed Prince Phillip. Would you raise a glass...
"God save the Queen" !
PS. my 23" Sport change over is coming along fine with just a few nits to pick.
"God save the Queen" !
PS. my 23" Sport change over is coming along fine with just a few nits to pick.
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,181
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 870 Times
in
332 Posts
Expensive but worth it. The Carradice zipped roll was much more bag than I was expecting. I splurged on the special tweed version. Not sure if it's exactly the same size, but it's big enough to use in lieu of a rando type handlebar bag for long day trips. Plenty of room for lunch, wallet, phone, windbreaker, etc, as well as the usual spare tube and mini pump.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
18 Posts
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
18 Posts
Verified Antique
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 480
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Pretty much any shop with a J&B account should be able to get them
https://www.jbi.bike/web/checking_pro...t_number=31605
https://www.jbi.bike/web/checking_pro...t_number=31605
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
18 Posts
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times
in
1,557 Posts
Looks like a ladies' Sports to me, but I've never seen a Glider for sale. Forumer noglider needs one of these, but then he'd have to change his name.
Raleigh Glider Bike
Raleigh Glider Bike - $40 (Church Hill)
Needs hand grip, Work done to the back brake and new tubes and tires. Cool bike, just needs some minor repairs. Asking $40 OBO.
Raleigh Glider Bike
Raleigh Glider Bike - $40 (Church Hill)
Needs hand grip, Work done to the back brake and new tubes and tires. Cool bike, just needs some minor repairs. Asking $40 OBO.
Last edited by thumpism; 11-23-16 at 07:42 AM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Looks like a ladies' Sports to me, but I've never seen a Glider for sale. Forumer noglider needs one of these, but then he'd have to change his name.
Raleigh Glider Bike
Raleigh Glider Bike - $40 (Church Hill)
Needs hand grip, Work done to the back brake and new tubes and tires. Cool bike, just needs some minor repairs. Asking $40 OBO.
Raleigh Glider Bike
Raleigh Glider Bike - $40 (Church Hill)
Needs hand grip, Work done to the back brake and new tubes and tires. Cool bike, just needs some minor repairs. Asking $40 OBO.
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,117
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 63 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1452 Post(s)
Liked 1,402 Times
in
768 Posts
Pack of five, including a Raleigh Superbe:
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/5887693054.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/5887693054.html
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times
in
288 Posts