For the love of English 3 speeds...
11-26-17, 11:39 PM
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I've never had a steel stem stuck but I did have pawl pins rusted tight in an AW hub once. I was worried that the whole assembly might be toast until I gave it an overnight soak in evapo rust. In the morning the rust was gone and the pins came right out. Just a thought.
11-27-17, 09:00 AM
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Are these bars, stem, and levers English 3 speed parts? They were on a older Schwinn I picked up recently but don't look like Schwinn parts to me.
11-27-17, 09:11 AM
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Is the fulcrum clamp the shift cable stop on the top bar close to the front with the slotted plastic insert? If so I'll send you one I still have the box with your address on it. It should be in decent shape after a clean up & complete. I robbed that picture not the one.
11-27-17, 10:41 AM
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Are the calipers aluminum? Do they have markings?
Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 11-27-17 at 10:46 AM.
11-27-17, 11:10 AM
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I have those levers on a Sears 3 speed made by Steyr in Austria. They are indeed Weinmann levers mated with Weinmann aluminum side pull brakes.
11-27-17, 11:10 AM
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Haven't seen this shifter before. Maybe a 1961
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...400884505.html
Attachment 590294
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...400884505.html
Attachment 590294
11-27-17, 11:31 AM
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Thanks for the info. The calipers are Schwinn script Weinmann. It's possible the levers and calipers came from the same bike because the Schwinn script may not be original to this 1960 Varsity. The stem and bars are available cheap if anyone here needs them. Here's a pic of the Schwinn after switching to drops (repainted and incorrect decals):
11-27-17, 12:22 PM
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I've always heard that Schwinn made all of their bikes in that era. They wanted anything with "Schwinn" on it to be built in their Chicago factory. They only started to outsource bike production in the mid-70's, when they realized they could not build lightweight 10 speeds (except Paramounts and the fillet-brazed models) in house, so they had Panasonic build the Le Tour.
Anyone else want to weigh in?
11-27-17, 01:05 PM
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11-27-17, 02:24 PM
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^^ That too is a Brampton. I have the first style (in the prior photo) on one of my bikes so I know they made them both ways. Funny that the Hercules and Brampton shifters look identical. Is the Hercules rebranded?
11-27-17, 04:37 PM
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I suspect that Brampton was the actual manufacturer of the Hercules branded Sturmey Archer clone hubs as well as the shifters.
11-27-17, 05:12 PM
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11-28-17, 05:40 AM
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A quick question to the cognoscenti: best shifting technique on a British 3-speed that would go easy on the mechanicals?
I just joined the British 3-speed club by acquiring 1960 (?) Raleigh-in-disguise Sports. I got my first (thrilling!) spin yesterday, and want to avoid damaging the machine.
As an example, I haven't lubricated the hub yet (discovery stage), and there is a slight delay in shifting - normal, or should I adjust my technique?
I just joined the British 3-speed club by acquiring 1960 (?) Raleigh-in-disguise Sports. I got my first (thrilling!) spin yesterday, and want to avoid damaging the machine.
As an example, I haven't lubricated the hub yet (discovery stage), and there is a slight delay in shifting - normal, or should I adjust my technique?
Last edited by CasualBikerJay; 11-28-17 at 06:23 AM. Reason: spelling
11-28-17, 05:54 AM
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A quick question to the cognoscenti: best shifting technique on a British 3-speed that would go easy on the mechanicals?
I just join the British 3-speed club by acquiring 1960 (?) Raleigh-in-disguise Sports. I got my first (thrilling!) spin yesterday, and want to avoid damaging the machine.
As an example, I haven't lubricated the hub yet (discovery stage), and there is a slight delay in shifting - normal, or should I adjust my technique?
I just join the British 3-speed club by acquiring 1960 (?) Raleigh-in-disguise Sports. I got my first (thrilling!) spin yesterday, and want to avoid damaging the machine.
As an example, I haven't lubricated the hub yet (discovery stage), and there is a slight delay in shifting - normal, or should I adjust my technique?
Rule #2 add some oil to the hub
When riding on an IGH you need to let up a bit when shifting, some people stop pedaling completely.
Unless the hub is way out of adjustment and you put our 750 watts of power you will be hard put to damage a Sturmey-Archer AW. Good news is if you do manage to break it, there are plenty of repair parts available.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
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Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
11-28-17, 07:06 AM
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Cleaning and oiling the shifter mechanism can really help. It's possible the cable tension is not correct. Make sure the cable is still on the pulley and the pulley moves freely.
Also check the small chain where it enters the hub. Make sure the links are not coming apart and it moves freely. The links may be stiff there. Penetrating oil and working the links back and forth helps.
Also check the small chain where it enters the hub. Make sure the links are not coming apart and it moves freely. The links may be stiff there. Penetrating oil and working the links back and forth helps.
11-28-17, 07:22 AM
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Yes, oiling with plain old 30 weight (lawnmower, sans additives) oil?
I did sense the need to pause slightly during the shift.
Last edited by CasualBikerJay; 11-28-17 at 07:32 AM.
11-28-17, 07:25 AM
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11-28-17, 08:16 AM
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Sturmey-Archer Spare Parts from Harris Cyclery
As does BikeToolsEtc in Oregon:
Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!
11-28-17, 08:24 AM
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Huh?
I've always heard that Schwinn made all of their bikes in that era. They wanted anything with "Schwinn" on it to be built in their Chicago factory. They only started to outsource bike production in the mid-70's, when they realized they could not build lightweight 10 speeds (except Paramounts and the fillet-brazed models) in house, so they had Panasonic build the Le Tour.
Anyone else want to weigh in?
I've always heard that Schwinn made all of their bikes in that era. They wanted anything with "Schwinn" on it to be built in their Chicago factory. They only started to outsource bike production in the mid-70's, when they realized they could not build lightweight 10 speeds (except Paramounts and the fillet-brazed models) in house, so they had Panasonic build the Le Tour.
Anyone else want to weigh in?
Schwinn built their own 3 speeds, variously using lugged and brazed (Paramount Tourist), fillet brazed (Superiors, early New Worlds, and the early Continentals), and eletroforge weld (lots of post war models).
11-28-17, 09:50 AM
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Harris Cyclery in Massachussetts carries Sturmey-Archer small parts:
Sturmey-Archer Spare Parts from Harris Cyclery
As does BikeToolsEtc in Oregon:
Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!
Sturmey-Archer Spare Parts from Harris Cyclery
As does BikeToolsEtc in Oregon:
Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!
11-28-17, 09:57 AM
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11-28-17, 10:21 AM
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I have been to Harris to get other parts. As I look at their web site I do not see the spring cap listed. This hub had a thin washer placed below the bearing race in the assembly. The spring cap fits snug between the bearing and glide on the bottom of the axle cone. I feel that the thin washer would hang up while trying to slide up ad down as you shift..
11-28-17, 11:09 AM
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A quick question to the cognoscenti: best shifting technique on a British 3-speed that would go easy on the mechanicals?
I just joined the British 3-speed club by acquiring 1960 (?) Raleigh-in-disguise Sports. I got my first (thrilling!) spin yesterday, and want to avoid damaging the machine.
As an example, I haven't lubricated the hub yet (discovery stage), and there is a slight delay in shifting - normal, or should I adjust my technique?
I just joined the British 3-speed club by acquiring 1960 (?) Raleigh-in-disguise Sports. I got my first (thrilling!) spin yesterday, and want to avoid damaging the machine.
As an example, I haven't lubricated the hub yet (discovery stage), and there is a slight delay in shifting - normal, or should I adjust my technique?
Automatic transmission fluid works quite well; WD-40 is good if the bike has been in long disuse- spray the hub full of the stuff and go for a ride of a mile or two. Once back, rotate the wheel so the oil port is down and with a paper towel or rag, drain the hub by spraying even more WD into it while the oil port is down. If you have compressed air, spray that into it next and then add a normal lubricant. Almost any will do; 10-30 works OK but I think the automatic transmission fluid is better. The hub should rotate as freely as the best Campagnolo hub or you have a problem.
Shifting: Easing off of the torque is all that's needed. You don't need to stop pedaling. Shifting should be instantaneous.