For the love of English 3 speeds...
09-07-23, 08:28 PM
Palmer
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 8,627
Bikes: Mike Melton custom, Alex Moulton AM, Dahon Curl
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1671 Post(s)
Liked 1,826 Times
in
1,062 Posts
A SA hub requires a teaspoon of any motor oil once a year. Too much will soon spill out and cover everything in crud.
Likes For tcs:
09-07-23, 09:28 PM
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
A bit of an update about my Rudge Aero Clubman. Someone in the past installed what looks like a Wald cruiser riser type bar, into that beautiful chromed flat-top stem. They wrenched down on it quite a bit but also DRILLED A HOLE right in the top and stuck a small sheet metal screw through the top of the handlebar clamp and into the bar itself to prevent it from moving. This is disappointing and as a result I ordered a Titan stem to keep the build somewhat period correct.
This bike seems to be a mish-mash of sorts.
There's a bunch of contradictions: Cable pulley was on a clamp, even though this frame has the brazed-on pulley boss.
At one point someone was using center-pull calipers, as evidenced by the seatpost bolt cable stop seen on much later TI bikes. That said, the rear brake is a steel caliper from a Sports, no front brake.
Other things I've noticed are that the wheels don't match; the rear is a much later production Rigida 27x1-1/4 laced to a steel 1951 AW hub. The front wheel is a Normandy high-flange with wingnuts laced to a Rigida Chrolux.
Who made the cranks? Raleigh? They have a stamped N inside an oval depression on the inside of the crank arms. The arms are fluted and look nice, but the drive side pedal threads look to be nearly stripped. The really surprising thing is the hollow bottom bracket spindle. Both of the cups look nice and the spindle doesn't look worn. I think I'm going to replace the crank with a Williams B100 unit I have.
I'm going to set aside the wheels that the bike came with and build a set of 700c wheels around a pair of Normandy track hubs I'm wanting to put into service.
This isn't going to be a restoration at all. I'm going to get the frame as clean as I can and brighten up the chrome and paint a bit (not the Rudge transfers) with some Flitz, then build it up as a nice-weather bike. I want to keep the correct mounting for a set of mudguards, so while I like Velo Orange units, I may have to go with SKS "Bluemels" with the correct stays. As far as I can tell, I can't figure out a way to get VO mudguards on while keeping the proper mounting using a V-shaped stay for the rear.
Control of the bike will be with a GB Maes bar and a pair of GB Super Hood levers. I strayed with the age by a decade, but stuck to British made.
It may be heresy but I already have a 1" seatpost which is an American Classic, so that's what is going to hold up a B17 saddle.
Photos will be posted after I find my card reader so I can transfer the images of the bike as I received it last night.
This bike seems to be a mish-mash of sorts.
There's a bunch of contradictions: Cable pulley was on a clamp, even though this frame has the brazed-on pulley boss.
At one point someone was using center-pull calipers, as evidenced by the seatpost bolt cable stop seen on much later TI bikes. That said, the rear brake is a steel caliper from a Sports, no front brake.
Other things I've noticed are that the wheels don't match; the rear is a much later production Rigida 27x1-1/4 laced to a steel 1951 AW hub. The front wheel is a Normandy high-flange with wingnuts laced to a Rigida Chrolux.
Who made the cranks? Raleigh? They have a stamped N inside an oval depression on the inside of the crank arms. The arms are fluted and look nice, but the drive side pedal threads look to be nearly stripped. The really surprising thing is the hollow bottom bracket spindle. Both of the cups look nice and the spindle doesn't look worn. I think I'm going to replace the crank with a Williams B100 unit I have.
I'm going to set aside the wheels that the bike came with and build a set of 700c wheels around a pair of Normandy track hubs I'm wanting to put into service.
This isn't going to be a restoration at all. I'm going to get the frame as clean as I can and brighten up the chrome and paint a bit (not the Rudge transfers) with some Flitz, then build it up as a nice-weather bike. I want to keep the correct mounting for a set of mudguards, so while I like Velo Orange units, I may have to go with SKS "Bluemels" with the correct stays. As far as I can tell, I can't figure out a way to get VO mudguards on while keeping the proper mounting using a V-shaped stay for the rear.
Control of the bike will be with a GB Maes bar and a pair of GB Super Hood levers. I strayed with the age by a decade, but stuck to British made.
It may be heresy but I already have a 1" seatpost which is an American Classic, so that's what is going to hold up a B17 saddle.
Photos will be posted after I find my card reader so I can transfer the images of the bike as I received it last night.
The fender braces are a peculiar type that mount to braze-on bosses. A square-headed screw mounts on the inside of the boss, with a wing nut on the outside holding down the stay loops. At the fender, the stay is a plain rod that goes through a eyelet on the fender mounting wings. You may have more luck using an old school set of Bluemels type fenders.
Go very easy on the paint - early 1950s era Raleigh bright paints, especially the two-stage ones with the aluminum base coats, are very fragile. This was true of the club line up bikes and the Lentons from that period. I would start with some plain, soapy water wash-up in an inconspicuous place and see if you end up with color on the rag. If wash-up water is removing paint, you don't want to go near any kind of polish.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Likes For SirMike1983:
09-08-23, 08:29 AM
Tinker-er
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 450
Bikes: 1956 Rudge Sports; 1983 Univega Alpina Uno; 1981 Miyata 610; 1973 Raleigh Twenty; 1994 Breezer Lightning XTR; V4 Yuba Mundo aka "The Schlepper"; 1987 Raleigh "The Edge" Mountain Trials; 1952 R.O. Harrison "Madison"
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times
in
183 Posts
Thanks for the advice regarding the paint. I was just using water with dish soap and a soft toothbrush last night. It looks like someone ran over some asphalt because there is hardened tar on the chainstays up by the bottom bracket. I’ll be gentle with those areas but will need to get a little more aggressive to remove it.
I found a small dent (not crease) about the size of a nickel, in the non-drive side chainstay which I may try to tap out gently.
The chrome cleaned up so well with just a few swipes of a soft bronze brush.
bottom bracket and headset parts are soaking. I’ll be replacing the balls. One issue is that the lower headset cup was slightly loose, so I’m going to need to figure out a good way to keep it from vibrating loose.
I found a small dent (not crease) about the size of a nickel, in the non-drive side chainstay which I may try to tap out gently.
The chrome cleaned up so well with just a few swipes of a soft bronze brush.
bottom bracket and headset parts are soaking. I’ll be replacing the balls. One issue is that the lower headset cup was slightly loose, so I’m going to need to figure out a good way to keep it from vibrating loose.
09-08-23, 09:01 AM
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
Thanks for the advice regarding the paint. I was just using water with dish soap and a soft toothbrush last night. It looks like someone ran over some asphalt because there is hardened tar on the chainstays up by the bottom bracket. I’ll be gentle with those areas but will need to get a little more aggressive to remove it.
I found a small dent (not crease) about the size of a nickel, in the non-drive side chainstay which I may try to tap out gently.
The chrome cleaned up so well with just a few swipes of a soft bronze brush.
bottom bracket and headset parts are soaking. I’ll be replacing the balls. One issue is that the lower headset cup was slightly loose, so I’m going to need to figure out a good way to keep it from vibrating loose.
I found a small dent (not crease) about the size of a nickel, in the non-drive side chainstay which I may try to tap out gently.
The chrome cleaned up so well with just a few swipes of a soft bronze brush.
bottom bracket and headset parts are soaking. I’ll be replacing the balls. One issue is that the lower headset cup was slightly loose, so I’m going to need to figure out a good way to keep it from vibrating loose.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
09-08-23, 09:02 AM
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
1959 Schwinn Traveler three speed ride from a couple nights ago:
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
09-08-23, 09:23 AM
Junior Member
09-08-23, 12:38 PM
Palmer
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 8,627
Bikes: Mike Melton custom, Alex Moulton AM, Dahon Curl
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1671 Post(s)
Liked 1,826 Times
in
1,062 Posts
09-08-23, 12:47 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,597
Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 359 Post(s)
Liked 265 Times
in
119 Posts
Ahem. This is known as Bavarian Shim Stock and we will be very please if you thus obtain of the correct term.
Likes For Salubrious:
09-08-23, 12:59 PM
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
A can with German precision engineering.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Likes For SirMike1983:
09-08-23, 03:23 PM
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,274
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1298 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
Last night I just took ownership of a ~1951 Rudge Aero Clubman. I can't wait to get this up and running. Come to think of it, would it fit into the English 3 speed thread? Many were delivered with 4-speed hubs, some with 3-speed, and many with single-speed flip flop hubs. Anyway, it's a lovely old thing which I'll get to scrubbing with a toothbrush and some mild detergent tonight after work, then more this coming weekend. I'll follow up with photos ASAP.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
09-08-23, 04:42 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,648
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 478 Post(s)
Liked 634 Times
in
336 Posts
Wow! Purchase tax was almost 25%!
09-08-23, 05:12 PM
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,274
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1298 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
09-08-23, 05:38 PM
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
To help pay war debts back. Taxes were high and "export or perish" was the principle. The loans and lend-lease debts were substantial, particularly owed back to the USA. The final payment back to the US was made in December 2006, 61+ years after the war ended.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
09-08-23, 07:04 PM
Tinker-er
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 450
Bikes: 1956 Rudge Sports; 1983 Univega Alpina Uno; 1981 Miyata 610; 1973 Raleigh Twenty; 1994 Breezer Lightning XTR; V4 Yuba Mundo aka "The Schlepper"; 1987 Raleigh "The Edge" Mountain Trials; 1952 R.O. Harrison "Madison"
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times
in
183 Posts
Cleaning of the Rudge is done. I did some light scrubbing with a toothbrush and soapy water over the paint, and used a bronze brush as well as a 2000 grit wet sanding sponge on the chrome. I used a little wooden cabinet chip to gently remove the surface crud of asphalt and found clean new orange paint under it in spots, so perhaps that happened long ago.
The crown race and lower headset cup are indexed so they need replacement. I don’t know if it would be effective, but I have some 400 grit and 3000 grit lapping compounds which I thought I may be able to use to resurrect the cup. Crown race is done though.
The bottom bracket is dirty but beautiful. I’m very impressed by the polished hollow spindle with only a solitary “S” stamp. No one has hacked at either of the bottom bracket cups or lockring with a hammer and punch, so they are in great condition.
I haven’t gotten to the crankset yet but another cursory glance at the pedal threads makes me think I may be able to use it, though I’ll need to find a chainring with fewer teeth.
As I was doing my scrubbing tonight I was continually impressed by this old frame which will turn out to be one of the nicer bikes I’ll own.
The crown race and lower headset cup are indexed so they need replacement. I don’t know if it would be effective, but I have some 400 grit and 3000 grit lapping compounds which I thought I may be able to use to resurrect the cup. Crown race is done though.
The bottom bracket is dirty but beautiful. I’m very impressed by the polished hollow spindle with only a solitary “S” stamp. No one has hacked at either of the bottom bracket cups or lockring with a hammer and punch, so they are in great condition.
I haven’t gotten to the crankset yet but another cursory glance at the pedal threads makes me think I may be able to use it, though I’ll need to find a chainring with fewer teeth.
As I was doing my scrubbing tonight I was continually impressed by this old frame which will turn out to be one of the nicer bikes I’ll own.
09-09-23, 06:49 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times
in
1,557 Posts
Turista kit! Build yer own bobby bike. $180 in TN.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...10040944942459
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...10040944942459
09-09-23, 07:53 AM
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 261
Bikes: A Blue One and 2 Green One's, then there's the Yellow one. And oh, yeah, a Black One. Did I mention the Red One?
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Liked 195 Times
in
82 Posts
American import version of a last hurrah Hercules. I guess they were trying to appeal to the American sensibility of style that Schwinn and Murray were producing. These were Department store bikes and this one was sold by Montgomery Wards. The Original headbadge read Hawthorn, sold by Montgomery Wards, made by Hercules BIRMINGHAM. I purchased it for $15 at a garage sale because the twin bar frame struck me. The bottom bracket, and front hub was destroyed, the 1962 dated Sturmey rear hub was stuck in 3rd and after inspection, it found the skip also.
First pic is of the only other one Ive seen complete, it was for sale on eBay.
Second pic is of how it was when I bought it.
Third pic is of how it was when I sold it to a friend last month.
I rode it on the 80 mile Lake Pepin 3spd tour last May and it performed flawlessly.
Has anyone seen any of these originals out in the wild?
First pic is of the only other one Ive seen complete, it was for sale on eBay.
Second pic is of how it was when I bought it.
Third pic is of how it was when I sold it to a friend last month.
I rode it on the 80 mile Lake Pepin 3spd tour last May and it performed flawlessly.
Has anyone seen any of these originals out in the wild?
09-09-23, 01:38 PM
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,847
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,055 Times
in
1,255 Posts
Nice work! Can't say we saw many of these north of the 49th but I wouldn't mind one. I like Birmingham bikes.
Likes For clubman:
09-09-23, 07:04 PM
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 240
Bikes: 30's Speedwell Club Racer, 40's Speedwell 'Z' racer, 50's Unknown Aussie with nice lugs, 50's Speedwell Roadster, 50's Repco Roadster, '63 Raleigh DL-1, 70's Raleigh Sprite, Puch Promenade with Nexus 8
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 30 Times
in
23 Posts
Likes For arty dave:
09-09-23, 07:11 PM
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 240
Bikes: 30's Speedwell Club Racer, 40's Speedwell 'Z' racer, 50's Unknown Aussie with nice lugs, 50's Speedwell Roadster, 50's Repco Roadster, '63 Raleigh DL-1, 70's Raleigh Sprite, Puch Promenade with Nexus 8
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 30 Times
in
23 Posts
A question about kickstands and avoiding the crushing of chainstays: Has anyone used the F8 Pletscher kickstand fittings kit? I can see how it protects the tops of the chainstays, but doesn't that leave the underneath still vulnerable to crushing? I can't really find a good overall image of the installation
OR has anyone made there own anti-crush fittings for kickstands?
OR has anyone made there own anti-crush fittings for kickstands?
09-09-23, 07:14 PM
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
American import version of a last hurrah Hercules. I guess they were trying to appeal to the American sensibility of style that Schwinn and Murray were producing. These were Department store bikes and this one was sold by Montgomery Wards. The Original headbadge read Hawthorn, sold by Montgomery Wards, made by Hercules BIRMINGHAM. I purchased it for $15 at a garage sale because the twin bar frame struck me. The bottom bracket, and front hub was destroyed, the 1962 dated Sturmey rear hub was stuck in 3rd and after inspection, it found the skip also.
First pic is of the only other one Ive seen complete, it was for sale on eBay.
Second pic is of how it was when I bought it.
Third pic is of how it was when I sold it to a friend last month.
I rode it on the 80 mile Lake Pepin 3spd tour last May and it performed flawlessly.
Has anyone seen any of these originals out in the wild?
First pic is of the only other one Ive seen complete, it was for sale on eBay.
Second pic is of how it was when I bought it.
Third pic is of how it was when I sold it to a friend last month.
I rode it on the 80 mile Lake Pepin 3spd tour last May and it performed flawlessly.
Has anyone seen any of these originals out in the wild?
As prepped for sale, September 2022
I had one that was just a little small for me. It was a barn find someone listed for $25 and I couldn't resist. The chrome on the original wheelset had long ago decided to part ways with the steel, so it was rebuilt with Raleigh wheels from 1974.
The original hub was dated 1960. My bike was a 'thrift' model with a single top tube. The oxidized enamel paint lifted off with a clay bar and polished nicely with rubbing compound. The paint was gone on the drive side seat stay though. Looking for Phillips rubber block pedals at the co-op I spied a burgundy Hawthorne, along with a Robin Hood in the bike queue.
Likes For Unca_Sam:
09-09-23, 08:21 PM
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 261
Bikes: A Blue One and 2 Green One's, then there's the Yellow one. And oh, yeah, a Black One. Did I mention the Red One?
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Liked 195 Times
in
82 Posts
As prepped for sale, September 2022
I had one that was just a little small for me. It was a barn find someone listed for $25 and I couldn't resist. The chrome on the original wheelset had long ago decided to part ways with the steel, so it was rebuilt with Raleigh wheels from 1974.
The original hub was dated 1960. My bike was a 'thrift' model with a single top tube. The oxidized enamel paint lifted off with a clay bar and polished nicely with rubbing compound. The paint was gone on the drive side seat stay though. Looking for Phillips rubber block pedals at the co-op I spied a burgundy Hawthorne, along with a Robin Hood in the bike queue.
I've also seen a single top bar with cantilever version.
Very nice !
Last edited by macstuff; 09-09-23 at 08:28 PM.
09-09-23, 08:27 PM
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 261
Bikes: A Blue One and 2 Green One's, then there's the Yellow one. And oh, yeah, a Black One. Did I mention the Red One?
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Liked 195 Times
in
82 Posts
The fork came off a 60' Schwinn Continental and is French made. The Chainguard is a 1930s McCauley Wing.
09-09-23, 09:00 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 910
Bikes: 1964(?) Frejus Tour de France, 1967(?) Dawes Double Blue, 1979 Trek 710, 1982 Claud Butler Dalesman, 1983 Schwinn Paramount Elite, 2014 Brompton, maybe a couple more
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 310 Post(s)
Liked 679 Times
in
331 Posts
I mixed up a tub of oxalic acid and I have a pile of Sturmey Archer rear wheels from the co-op, sitting on the patio waiting for a quick dip to see if it improves the chrome rims (the hubs will not be dipped).
Somehow I was not able to work up the enthusiasm to complete this task tonight, so wish me luck tomorrow. I covered up the oxalic acid so birds and critters wouldn't get into it.
Somehow I was not able to work up the enthusiasm to complete this task tonight, so wish me luck tomorrow. I covered up the oxalic acid so birds and critters wouldn't get into it.
09-10-23, 10:55 AM
Tinker-er
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 450
Bikes: 1956 Rudge Sports; 1983 Univega Alpina Uno; 1981 Miyata 610; 1973 Raleigh Twenty; 1994 Breezer Lightning XTR; V4 Yuba Mundo aka "The Schlepper"; 1987 Raleigh "The Edge" Mountain Trials; 1952 R.O. Harrison "Madison"
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times
in
183 Posts
What is the opinion regarding the stock Nicklin crankset from the Rudge Aero Clubman vs. a brighter Williams B100?
The Nicklin is fluted, 116bcd and possibly original to the bike, while the Williams is in much better condition.
The real issue I have with the Nicklin is that it has a 48 tooth ring and I really want to ride something smaller like a 44 tooth.
I’ve found limited information on the Nicklin cranks, though it would be nice to keep this on the Clubman as-original. I just can’t seem to find a proper 44 tooth ring which doesn’t cost more than the bike itself (granted, the bike was quite low priced.)
Anyway, opinions out there from those more in-the-know?
Thanks all!
The Nicklin is fluted, 116bcd and possibly original to the bike, while the Williams is in much better condition.
The real issue I have with the Nicklin is that it has a 48 tooth ring and I really want to ride something smaller like a 44 tooth.
I’ve found limited information on the Nicklin cranks, though it would be nice to keep this on the Clubman as-original. I just can’t seem to find a proper 44 tooth ring which doesn’t cost more than the bike itself (granted, the bike was quite low priced.)
Anyway, opinions out there from those more in-the-know?
Thanks all!
09-10-23, 11:45 AM
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,274
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1298 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
I rescued a 1965 Hercules from the front of the local supermarket, where it had been abandoned. It needs a new rear tire and tube, but outside of that, it seems ready to go. It may be a juvenile size, because the bars are narrow and I noticed that the seatpost is short. The seat-tube is 20 1/2" c-t. I should be able to ride it, but will probably sell it. I re-packed the headset and front hub. I'll get around to the pedals and rear hub. If I keep it, it'll make a nice spare.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Last edited by 1989Pre; 09-10-23 at 11:52 AM.
Likes For 1989Pre: