dweenk 

I have 5 Raleighs for sale in the proper forum, and a shameless advert here.

groth

I was there with my '72 Sports. Did the 55 mile route (and wound up with 60). Just to see if I could, did the whole ride with using first gear! No walking, but some out of saddle pedaling up some of the bridge ramps. Here's the Sports on the Bay Ridge, Brooklyn pier:



Things added since I last mentioned the Sports: strap on water bottle holder with bottle, cycle computer, bell, and a new seat clamp. The seat no longer goes nose up if a big bump is hit.

And here's Candace (78 Raleigh Super Course) and me (you can just see the Sports on the right):



- Ed

ascherer 

Outstanding!

Ged117 

The Raleigh is 95 percent done. I just have to clean up the electrical light pieces and figure out a bulb upgrade. I took a lovely ride (the first one in the history of my ownership) here in Ottawa. It was a fine day for riding three speeds along our river paths. It took many months to finish but I'm very happy and thankful for this thread. It's what got me into three speeds (thanks SixtyFiver!)

The AG ticks along nicely. The Cyclo three speed external derailer works very well after a rebuild and fresh grease. I think this bike could boogie over flat roads. The big cog is 21t. One thing: it won't hold Normal gear. I think it's a shift cable adjustment issue. Any ideas? High and Low work perfectly.

I used a Tektro 800a front brake with some minor adjustment of the fender if you're wondering. The original brake parts crumbled, and I plan to take this old timer on a weekender or two so I fitted a more modern yet not out of place alternative. The rear is off a 1979 Sports. Panaracer Col de la Vie tires are fitted which are very comfy and look the business.
The Kool Stops work great but squeak terribly. Any fixes?

Here's a bunch of photos near the Canadian Parliament, from the east grounds...

The Canadian Parliament as seen from the grounds.


1962 Plymouth Belvedere. The Raleigh was 12 years old when it was built...


A familiar face. Same year range and colour as my donor 1979 Sports.


Close up of the 1949 made Cyclo 3 speed derailer. It works as well as you would expect. Crude by modern standards, but I am happy it works. Really helps the old fellow punch above his weight. After a rebuild and some fresh grease, it is fun to gently operate it.



A giant spider appears!


I found the carradice bag second hand. Ive been treating the leather bits with proofhide.

thumpism

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...974983416.html

Vintage Raleigh Rod Brake Roadster RARE! - $325 (Chesapeake Great Bridge)

bicycle frame material: other/unknown
bicycle type: road
frame size: 24 inch
wheel size: 28 in

1975 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist Rod Brake Roadster 24 Inch Frame

Rare and collectible English bike
This one is all original and in museum condition!

The Raleigh DL-1 was used by Police and military in England
The bike came in only 2 sizes 22 inch and 24 inch

3-Speed hub works great
Rod-Brakes work perfectly
Original Frame Pump, Headlight and more

Check out the rod mechanism!
Really cool and collectible bike. Will fit someone taller 5'9 to 6'3 roughly

gster

Very Nicely done!
I was curious as to how the derailleur would look/work out.
Slipping in second should be resolved by adjusting the cable length.
With the trigger in second, the crown of the indicator should
just be peeking out of the axle approx. 1/8"
It's a micro adjustment to engage properly.
This assumes the indicator is original to the hub as sometimes they
get swapped.
Also, make sure your cable stop is tight.
A new cable will need periodic tightening as it stretches a bit.

gster

Could a more modern derailleur like this one

Shimano Eagle II,
work on a 3 speed hub?
I suppose you'd have to limit the travel somehow...

Bomarc

Ged117 - that sure is one nice bike. Its easy to see why the older ones are coveted, they are a lot better finished than the newer ones. I had some shifting problems after I restored mine too, it was cable related as Gster says. Also mistakenly tightened up my trigger shifter when I cleaned it - turns out they run better when loose. My squealing Kool Stops were cured by tinkering with the brake callipers. It was a combination of how tight the callipers were bolted to the frame and adjusting the position of the pads with a large adjustable wrench - lots of good info on how to adjust pads on other forum posts.

Bike photos in Ottawa were cool.

noglider 

@groth, I think I saw Candace's bike. It's gold, right?

gster

Raleigh Built Oddball?


Listed as an English built Keaton bicycle.
Seller has high hopes @ $400.00 asking price.

gster

PeterLYoung 

I have recently acquired a Wartime Austerity Production Sunbeam at an Auction. Robert Champ at V-CC has provided all the knowledge I really have about this bike (thanks Bob). It has a transfer indicating wartime Sunbeam production and most of the paint is missing from the frame and accessories, apparently under wartime restrictions they were only allowed one coat of black paint and no chromium.
I plan to fully restore it and have it all re enamelled black again. I am in USA at present so can only post a few poor photos and will take better ones when I get back. Someone has fitted an SA 3speed later as it would have been single speed originally. As it is a BSA Sunbeam (BSA bought Sunbeam in 1943 as I understand it) it would have had a BSA 3Speed. As it happens I do have a period correct BSA 3Speed hub and a NOS BSA top tube mounted BSA shifter so I have to decide how period correct I should make it, however, for me gears make it more usable. One thing I find curious is that the drive side rear wheel drop out is extended under the chain stay for what could be derailleur mount and it has a design registration number stamped on it. This looks like a bracket for a Cyclo or Tri-velox Derailleur. It may be that it is a pre-war frame and they were using 'old stock' up to build new cycles.
Opinions invited plus any new information. I cannot determine the frame number until I get back to UK later this month.


Bike as purchased at auction. Note Front Rim is Black Paint as per Wartime measures. Rear Rim Chrome as replaced to add 3 Speed Hub.


Like the Handlebar style.


Brooks Saddle looks restorable.


Very little sign of head tube transfer.


Wartime white paint to rear fender


Sturmey Archer 3 Speed added later.


Looks like it has original pump?


No Chrome allowed on Wartime Austerity production.


Nice Lucas Headlight.


Drive Side Dropout has extension for Cyclo/Tri-velox Derailleur. Could this be a pre war frame? it is well known that wartime cycle manufacture was using up pre war stock.

HPL

Hello, Looking for any knowledge on this Raleigh, I believe to be 1930-1933. Serial number J26499, SA "AW" rear hub (no date stamp), SA "DYNOHUB" front hub, Wald PAT'D 2018531 rear mount kickstand. I've begun to dismantle this frame; I have it's "brother", but I believe it's a little later model (1938?). Curious as to when "AW" & "DYNOHUB" components were first being used; Pre-War or Post-War? It had been painted and embellished (horribly!). Needs a lot of TLC. Hubs and headset seem fairly decent (feel only, no visible bearing inspection); BB has play, missing rear chain guard section, shift cable gone, brake shoes are shot. My only Raleigh 3spd is a '70 Sports, so I'm unfamiliar with what this should have for original components. I'll post the other frame when I get back to it's location. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

gster

A challenging project.
My 1954 Mystery Bike has a similar flange.

groth

Yes, it's gold/bronze. Here's a couple of photos on the Brooklyn Bridge. They're not great - I think too much sun was getting in the aperture. The first has me, Candace, and our bikes. The second has Karen (FANY ride organizer) and her bike - a Brompton, as well as Candace's bike (the better to see the color). The three of us rode together. By the way, at the finish, we ran into another woman with same jersey design as Candace's (the photo of that is on Karen's phone). I'm guessing you're associating jersey with bike, in which case it could be the other woman's bike you saw.

- Ed

Salubrious

The first AWs appeared in 1938 if memory serves. There would be an '8' stamped on the hub. The Dynohubs appeared a bit later; they too have the date stamped on them.

PeterLYoung 

You can hang a Cyclo derailleur and convert the SA hub with a couple of sprockets and go 6 speed!!!

gster

I am considering a project like that.
Not on this bike.
Could I use a more modern derailleur?
I have a very nice Shimano Eagle II

BigChief 

Very well done! Great job on this. AW hubs have a neutral spot between Normal and High that you need to avoid. Slipping into neutral from Normal suggests a bit too much tension on the cable. A slight toe in at the front of the pads will stop the squeaking. With the steel calipers, we just bend them with pliers. My 550R Tektros came with pads with swivel adjusters built in. Not sure how to adjust alloy calipers without adjustable pads. Shim the pads somehow I guess.

PeterLYoung 

Don't see why not, might have to install longer 'stop screws' to set travel range and limit travel but to me a derailleur is a derailleur.
You are experienced and knowledgable to do this, its finding the conversion cogs that's hard these days.

gster

Yes.
I'd have to limit the travel of the derailleur,
either at the derailleur or the shifter.

BigChief 

This is a Sports Tourist. It has the later style mudguards . Not sure when they first appeared. Late 30s I think. Also the stamped Sturmey Archer logo is the more modern type. Again, can't date that feature, but I'll guess this bike is from the later 30s or early 40s. Nice bike. Looks like a fun project.

HPL

Thank you both for the info. I certainly don't know enough about these bikes. I thought that the front looked suspiciously like a Sports, but I'm not familiar as to how many models/years that fender was used. I also did not think that either hub was original to the frame, and I was basing the year solely on the serial number. As I recall, the previous owner thought that one bike was a '36 and the other a '38; but I don't remember which was which. I'm trying to determine when the "no date" hubs were used; I don't believe I saw any date code on the "DYNOHUB" either, but I'll check again. Does the same BB assy as my '70 sports fit this model? I was assuming that most parts were interchangeable as I have extra hubs (front and rear) and a new TA or TC (?) BB. The men's frame has the top tube mounted shifter if that helps indicate a manufacturing time frame. Everything I tried to lookup for the serial gave me no specific year (could not find a "J" listing) except if following alphabetically it would be between '30 and '33 if indeed this particular model was produced back to that time frame. I hope it's not sacrilege to have this painted in a color other than black (my Sports is black); planning on both bikes to be "chrome" orange powder coated with black lugs, BB shell, fenders, chain guard, etc. As I've yet to hunt down specific parts; I was curious to know if the shift cable assy's, brake pads, and chain guard section were readily available as aftermarket parts?
Appreciate your taking time to help!

gster

Wheels, Wheels, Wheels

Two rear wheels waiting for frames..
FG is a 1965 hub with the EA1 rim
behind is a '61 hub with a standard EA3 Dunlop rim with new rubber.
It was a VERY tight fit.
I would say the rarest part on these hubs is the oil cap.
I'd like to get my hands on a box of NOS caps....

gster

So...
Are you running a 21T cog with an 18T?