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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 09-27-20, 01:26 PM
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Here are some picture of my new bike, a Rudge Sports from 1962. I have wanted an English 3-speed for a long time, ever since 1985 when I got to briefly ride a 1960 Raleigh Sports. I thought, at that time, that it was the best ride I had ever had on a bike.
This one is about halfway to being reasonably clean and lubricated. It looks like everything's there, anyway. I was very pleased to find this nearby. I'll take









it for a ride and get you all some better photos maybe tomorrow.

Last edited by 1989Pre; 10-18-20 at 07:56 AM.
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Old 09-27-20, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 1989Pre
Johno59: Thanks. Regarding the rear basket removal, I was not expecting it to be that easy. I just hope I turned the adjusting nut on the indicator
into the right position once I re-attached it.
Regarding the sprocket being loose, I don't follow you. You are saying I need to buy some spacers?
There is a 1/4 inch space on the “driver” that normally is filled by the rear cog(1/8) and two 1/16 spacers. If you missing one or both the cog will wobble. It seems like that might damage the cog, or snap ring. You should be able to get the spacers at a bike shop, although I have never needed to. In a pinch you could put two cogs on.
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Old 09-27-20, 07:27 PM
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Very nice bike. Does the Dynohub work?
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Old 09-27-20, 07:34 PM
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The stem might be extend a little high.
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Old 09-28-20, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
Very nice bike. Does the Dynohub work?
Bluesteak, Thanks. I have not tested the lighting system. The seller commented,
"Maybe you can get it to work", so maybe it needs a bulb. Are they available?
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Old 09-28-20, 04:32 AM
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Hopefully someone else will chime in, but I am pretty certain you can get LED bulbs online.

There are people on the thread that can tell you more about trouble shooting the Dynohubs system and parts, than I can.
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Old 09-28-20, 05:31 AM
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In the schematic they are listed as X-49 ,two of. Here they are in front of the sprocket. I usually have them behind the sprocket.

Last edited by Johno59; 09-28-20 at 05:49 AM.
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Old 09-28-20, 05:47 AM
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LED Bulbs

Originally Posted by bluesteak
Hopefully someone else will chime in, but I am pretty certain you can get LED bulbs online.

There are people on the thread that can tell you more about trouble shooting the Dynohubs system and parts, than I can.
Niclite LED bulbs have a website on EBay. You need the Bulb and the capacitor. They've worked fine for me.
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Old 09-28-20, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 1989Pre
Bluesteak, Thanks. I have not tested the lighting system. The seller commented,
"Maybe you can get it to work", so maybe it needs a bulb. Are they available?
Spin the wheel and place a screw driver across the two terminals on the dynohub. A spark indicates you have power.
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Old 09-28-20, 07:13 AM
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We are clearing out some of the dead or beater bikes from the shared bike shed in our apartment complex and a neighbour called an 80's Gazelle Impala with AB hub a "total loss". (to be fair, it was a dumpster find)
With the exception of some superficial rust the only thing really wrong here was a front wheel that rubbed the frame, which was easily fixed by undoing both nuts, putting the wheel in straight, and then tightening them again. We are now discussing future ownership or €30 in replacement parts to get everything running smoothly again.

But honestly, some new cables and a new shifter and it will run as new again for a decade more.


Last edited by JaccoW; 09-28-20 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 09-28-20, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 1989Pre
Johno59: Thanks. Regarding the rear basket removal, I was not expecting it to be that easy. I just hope I turned the adjusting nut on the indicator
into the right position once I re-attached it.
There are two methods of making sure the aduster of the toggle chain (also known as the indicator) is set up correctly. The method I like to use is to put the shifter in low, and set the shift cable tension as low as I can while simultaneously seeing to it that the toggle chain is pulled out of the hub as far as it will go. This insures that the shifter will have the least amount of tension on it when in first and all the higher gears will be in the right place (avoiding that notorious 'neutral' between 2nd and 3rd). Note that the cable stop on the top tube of the bike as well as the pulley for the cable are both secured properly!
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Old 09-28-20, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
There are two methods of making sure the aduster of the toggle chain (also known as the indicator) is set up correctly. The method I like to use is to put the shifter in low, and set the shift cable tension as low as I can while simultaneously seeing to it that the toggle chain is pulled out of the hub as far as it will go. This insures that the shifter will have the least amount of tension on it when in first and all the higher gears will be in the right place (avoiding that notorious 'neutral' between 2nd and 3rd). Note that the cable stop on the top tube of the bike as well as the pulley for the cable are both secured properly!
Thanks, Salu! I really appreciate that. I'll keep your reply, and when it comes time to hook it all back up, it looks like I'll be all set with that information. I took the rear wheel off today and put the circlip to the sprocket back on. Next will be inspecting and relubing the bottom bracket and headset.
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Old 09-28-20, 03:09 PM
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Jacco, it'd look even better with a white saddle, possibly Reydel! Good job saving it.
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Old 09-28-20, 03:16 PM
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Johno, I spun the front wheel and turned on the dyno. It works when I throw the switch to the right, but when I throw it to the left, nothing.

The way the sprocket was set up was one spacer behind the sprocket and one in front, so that's how I left it.

Last edited by 1989Pre; 09-28-20 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 09-28-20, 03:20 PM
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Bluestreak: Yes, I have Nicelite LED bulb in the Ever Ready can on my Grubb. The bulb in the lamp on the Rudge appears to be okay, so I'll see what kind of illumination I get.

Last edited by 1989Pre; 09-29-20 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 10-02-20, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
Try staking it, which is cheap and easy. Get a cold chisel and on the backside of the arm go around the swaged part and make nice little radial grooves by whacking the chisel with a BFH. It'll probably hold. I've done it.

Not exactly the right pic but you get the idea; you want to deform the metal to pinch the other piece in order to immobilize it.
LOL! The thing is, I know what that object is. Having those screws come loose, even a little bit, is bad juju.
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Old 10-03-20, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 1989Pre
Here are some picture of my new bike, a Rudge Sports from 1962. I have wanted an English 3-speed for a long time, ever since 1985 when I got to briefly ride a 1960 Raleigh Sports. I thought, at that time, that it was the best ride I had ever had on a bike.
This one is about halfway to being reasonably clean and lubricated. It looks like everything's there, anyway. I was very pleased to find this nearby. I'll take









it for a ride and get you all some better photos maybe tomorrow.
Very nice Rudge.
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Old 10-03-20, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
Very nice Rudge.
Thanks, Gster.
I was going to clean it up and put it back on the road, but then decided to go a bit further. I just bought a cotter pin press (the cotters are original) and a Raleigh fixed cup tool, so will give the heart of the bicycle a look later next week and get it re-lubed with new bearings. I think everything is original on it, including the brake pads and Regency tires. Even the Dyno Hub works!
The saddle is dated 1961, and seems to be just fine! I think I got lucky for $75.00. The seller even delivered it for me. The Dyno-Hub is dated 1961 and the rear Sturmey February of 1962. I hope to have some nice, outdoor pics of it in a couple of weeks.
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Old 10-03-20, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 1989Pre
Thanks, Gster.
I was going to clean it up and put it back on the road, but then decided to go a bit further. I just bought a cotter pin press (the cotters are original) and a Raleigh fixed cup tool, so will give the heart of the bicycle a look later next week and get it re-lubed with new bearings. I think everything is original on it, including the brake pads and Regency tires. Even the Dyno Hub works!
The saddle is dated 1961, and seems to be just fine! I think I got lucky for $75.00. The seller even delivered it for me. The Dyno-Hub is dated 1961 and the rear Sturmey February of 1962. I hope to have some nice, outdoor pics of it in a couple of weeks.
It's probably due for a BB repack.
I usually leave the fixed cup alone.
The older the bike, the easier it often is to get the cotters out.
Some can be very stubborn.
Good price.
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Old 10-03-20, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
It's probably due for a BB repack.
I usually leave the fixed cup alone.
The older the bike, the easier it often is to get the cotters out.
Some can be very stubborn.
Good price.
One cotter almost fell out. The other I tried knocking out with a block of wood, but it wouldn't budge.
How can the fixed cup be inspected, cleaned and repacked while still on the bike?
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Old 10-03-20, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 1989Pre
One cotter almost fell out. The other I tried knocking out with a block of wood, but it wouldn't budge.
How can the fixed cup be inspected, cleaned and repacked while still on the bike?
Once the BB is open you can just get in there with a varsol rag etc and clean out.
The steel is very strong and I have never removed/replaced one.
These bikes were built to last
and they really do.
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Old 10-04-20, 06:29 PM
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His 'n' hers. Looks like a matched pair of 23 inchers for a decent price.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...85559745796671


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Old 10-05-20, 07:23 AM
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My wife has had back surgery and needs a more upright riding position. I added a Sunlite Cromo quill extender to her '73 Raleigh Sports that goes about 4" down inside the steering tube, and tightened it down using a 6mm allen wrench with a crowbar inserted so I could use both hands to tighten the wedge bolt. I inserted the handlebar and hand-tightened the top wedge bolt. But now while the handlebar is tight inside the the extender, it is the extender itself that is moving. When I straddle the wheel and apply gentle pressure to either side of the handlebar, the extender is clamped hard enough to the inside of the steering tube the headset itself is turning, you can see on the photo below the headlamp bracket out of alignment. Unfortunately the movement is loose enough to make the bike unrideable.

Does anyone have advice if it's possible to stop the movement of the headset, or if I replaced the stem extender and handlebar with a longer replacement quill stem like one of these, or if I need to raise the extender higher up the steering tube, if any of these solutions would work to stop the headset movement?


Last edited by Dewey101; 10-05-20 at 07:33 AM.
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Old 10-05-20, 07:42 AM
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Had the 1950 Lenton Tourist out yesterday to participate in the 3-speed October 2020 Challenge. Intended to commute on it to work this morning, but after packing the saddlebag, I looked down to see that the rear tire was flat. Urp. Didn't have time to repair, but I'll do that this evening (took a different, non-3-speed bike).

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Old 10-05-20, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Dewey101
My wife has had back surgery and needs a more upright riding position. I added a Sunlite Cromo quill extender to her '73 Raleigh Sports that goes about 4" down inside the steering tube, and tightened it down using a 6mm allen wrench with a crowbar inserted so I could use both hands to tighten the wedge bolt. I inserted the handlebar and hand-tightened the top wedge bolt. But now while the handlebar is tight inside the the extender, it is the extender itself that is moving. When I straddle the wheel and apply gentle pressure to either side of the handlebar, the extender is clamped hard enough to the inside of the steering tube the headset itself is turning, you can see on the photo below the headlamp bracket out of alignment. Unfortunately the movement is loose enough to make the bike unrideable.

Does anyone have advice if it's possible to stop the movement of the headset, or if I replaced the stem extender and handlebar with a longer replacement quill stem like one of these, or if I need to raise the extender higher up the steering tube, if any of these solutions would work to stop the headset movement?

I am puzzled. I have two of those Sunlite quill extenders installed on two different bikes and have had no issues like you describe. I'm planning to get a third one for my Raleigh Sports. Maybe back it out about 1/4 inch so the taper is not wedged against the top nut. Should not have to tighten it any more than the stem itself. Assuming you greased every thing up pryor to assembly.
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