Try to sand-out roadrash?
#1
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From: Medford, MA
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Try to sand-out roadrash?
I just got ahold of this gem, which as you can see has been around the block a time or two. Would you leave it be or attempt to sand it out some?
#2
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
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I can't do any harm, in my opinion. I try to minimize road rash when and where possible. Sometimes, you can make it disappear. Sadly, the detail of the crest will be lost also. Unless you etch the original a bit deeper and exercise caution when cleaning up the rash area.
You might also consider if the surface is anodized. If so, you will have to polish off that too to gain a uniform surface.
You might also consider if the surface is anodized. If so, you will have to polish off that too to gain a uniform surface.
#3
I can't do any harm, in my opinion. I try to minimize road rash when and where possible. Sometimes, you can make it disappear. Sadly, the detail of the crest will be lost also. Unless you etch the original a bit deeper and exercise caution when cleaning up the rash area.
You might also consider if the surface is anodized. If so, you will have to polish off that too to gain a uniform surface.
You might also consider if the surface is anodized. If so, you will have to polish off that too to gain a uniform surface.
#5
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I vote to leave it, too.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#7
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From: Toronto, Ontario
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I would take some reeeeally fine sandpaper to it just to get the really rough stuff off and then leave it. If its anodized, leave it alone or the sanded part will never match the rest.
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#9
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From: Kansai
+1. Unless I'm going to strip all the anodization off a part, which is unfeasible (to me) for a RD, I just learn to live with rash/scratches on anodized parts.
#10
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At this point, you really have nothing to lose if you polish out that rash. I say you end up ahead if you do it, instead of riding around with the unsightly rash........unless you might consider it a sort of badge of "experience"?? I guess it could be all in good fun.
I did remember my racing friends in college that wore their most recent racing road rash on their bodies like they were something that makes them interesting....I guess they did, specially to our female classmates that seem to catch their attention.......those real brave and exciting, live the life to the edge, bike racing men!
I suggest that you dismanntle the RD to as many separate pieces as you can and hit the rashed parts separately with medium grit sand paper first to knock down the deepest scratches and gouges, then use one of those flexible sanding foam sponges at finer grits (400 to 600) then hit it with scotchbight to give the part's finsh a final directional grain, then aluminum polishing compound on a buffing wheel for the mirror finish!
Try to minimize the sanding and polishing at where the pivot and screws are mounted and moving/pivoting parts interface so you do not induce too much looseness at the joints if you take off too much aluminum at those areas when you do your sanding and polishing.
I'm sure you will be happier owning a refinished/polished part than and original but bashed up looking one.
Chombi

I did remember my racing friends in college that wore their most recent racing road rash on their bodies like they were something that makes them interesting....I guess they did, specially to our female classmates that seem to catch their attention.......those real brave and exciting, live the life to the edge, bike racing men!

I suggest that you dismanntle the RD to as many separate pieces as you can and hit the rashed parts separately with medium grit sand paper first to knock down the deepest scratches and gouges, then use one of those flexible sanding foam sponges at finer grits (400 to 600) then hit it with scotchbight to give the part's finsh a final directional grain, then aluminum polishing compound on a buffing wheel for the mirror finish!
Try to minimize the sanding and polishing at where the pivot and screws are mounted and moving/pivoting parts interface so you do not induce too much looseness at the joints if you take off too much aluminum at those areas when you do your sanding and polishing.
I'm sure you will be happier owning a refinished/polished part than and original but bashed up looking one.
Chombi
#11
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If that's a 1st Gen. C-Record as I believe it is, than it is indeed anodized and I'm not sure if it would make it look any better to sand it.
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