First timer trying to fix up a panasonic dx 6000 I got for free two years back.... see the top bike at this link

The main reason I would like to fix it up is because the frame is just the right height (me = 5'5" female) and just the right weight and doesn't have cosmetic damage that can't be easily fixed.

Now, on to the issues.... I have a new front wheel on the thing and a new back one I am going to put on. The back derailleur seems to be the original (shimano ultegra 600... the front does not (it reads shimano tx100)... the work just fine as far as I can tell, just need a tune up because the chain occasionally pops off if I shift too hard... or is that the nature if having friction shifters?)

Now I can't tell for the life of me what speed this bike originally came as... many times in the specs it says "7-speed"... does that mean a 7 gear crankset in the back? If so, the crankset on this bike only has 6 gears... the front has 2 gears... making it a 12-speed, which if the derailleur is the original, it was not meant for this and is that why it is slipping off? Should I buy a derailleur for a 6-speed crankset or should I buy a new 7-speed crankset, or does it not matter since both seem to have some life in them....

This leads me to the shifters, right now on the handbars there are some nasty thumb activated friction shifters which I intend to replace with some shimano or suntour down tube friction shifters... based on what I have said what needs to be replaced? the derailleur or the crankset or both, or just the shifters.... I don't know who messed around with this bike in the first place but the work seems pretty good, it just doesn't all add up.

a little advice would be appreciated, if you can get the the bottom of what I am saying.
Thanks.

Front shifter needs adjustment. Also check the trueness of the front chainrings.

I like the thumb shifters. PM me and I will trade the labor to replace the shifters with the old parts. I'm in S Cal. Price of new shifters can vary from $10 to +$100.

The brake may not have sufficient drop if you upgrade the wheels to 700c and the original was 27". The new wheel will probably come with a cassette, which may need new chain to operate properly. There is no need to purchase a new front shifter.

Pay attention to the rear dropout spacing when you purchase a new wheel. A 130mm spacing will allow you to go up to 10 sprockets at the rear, although I prefer to stick with an 8-speed cassette (12-26T).

Those oldies are a joy to ride.

https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...2527f07465dda6

https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...2527f07465dda6

Wow thanks!

The trade will probably not work as I am in upstate NY currently. I have a few follow up questions however...

The new back wheel only has a plastic piece, no new cassette with gears (if I understand correctly what a cassette is.) The cassette I have has six gears on it right now.... should i replace that cassette (I would probably stick with six, no need for anything else)If I replace it does that mean I also need new front chainrings? I assume if they are not true I should get new ones anyways. I also assume that if I stick with six in the back the rear dropout spacing won't be an issue (Btw I purchased this wheel.)

The last thing is, can you please elaborate on the brake have sufficient enough drop? I don't know exactly what you mean by that. The brakes have always been a problem I assumed just because right now I have suicide brake levers in place and out of laziness choose to use them... I plan on updating the brake levers with aero and interrupter brake levers once I decide on a new handlebar (and if you have a suggestion for a modestly priced one I would also appreciate that.)

I can't imagine this bike being any better to ride, but I am sure it will be once I update.

Thanks again!

Please post some pics. The old wheel may come with a freewheel or a cassette. You can re-use the old freewheel/cassette if it is not worn. No need to buy new front chainrings. Your new wheel is designed for a freewheel. It's OK quality, but you may want to re-check the tension before use to maximize durability.

Re-use the old freewheel/chain if the chain is has not stretch more than 0.062" per 12" of length.

You can use a crescent wrench to fix a slightly bent chainring.

700c wheel is smaller than 27" wheel. Therefore, if the brake lacks adjustment room, the brake pads will rub on the tire as well as the rim when the brake is applied.

One thing's for sure, that's a fine bike you have there. If it fits and it's in as good a cosmetic condition as you indicate then it's more than worth your putting some money into getting the issues resolved professionally. Look for a bike co-op somewhere near you. Lots of times you can get inexpensive used parts and help in doing the work.

Some of the parts you have described are definitely not stock according to the build list at the catalog page you linked. Not that that's a problem but it makes it harder for us to give you specific advice, especially without pictures.

And besides, we just like bike pics

That is a nice bike! I have a DX-4000 that I ride fairly often and I love it. Enjoy your new bike!

I didn't read the other responses but here is mine,
The flyer you posted shows that wheels a re 700c and that it is a seven speed cassette (seven in the back) with a 53/42 crankset in the front. Looking at the wheel that you purchased, it is a screw on type where the cassette that you have is not so you need to buy a screw on freewheel.

Contact Amani576. He's got the scoop. Great frame.

The old girl:

IMGP2943..jpg

A nasty situation up front:

IMGP2937..jpg

New front rim/tire, old but not original breaks/break pads? black plastic reads "suntour":

IMGP2941..jpg

Crankset:

IMGP2935..jpg

6 speed cassette, original derailleur (I think), greasy and muddy but nothing a good cleaning can't fix:

IMGP2933..jpg

IMGP2932..jpg

Old but not original breaks, new break pads, new tire:

IMGP2936..jpg

So from the prior posts I got two different answers...

furballi, you seem to thing the freewheel will work, longbeachgary you think not. I forgot to take picture of the new freewheel, but there is a screw there if that helps?

To clarify. I have a friend who is going to help me fix the bike up and he is pretty savvy. He however is at the World Cup for the next two weeks so I am jumping the gun and trying to order the parts I needs so when he gets back we can get to work. All advice is appreciated!

And as an update, I think I am going to order these shifters unless anybody has a compelling argument against them...

Thanks!!!

...Consider these and save some money. Superbe (at FULL retail!!) is overkill considering the rest of your drive train. Also, BikeStash guys are straight-up. You can probably save even more by buying used from one of the BF guys.

https://www.bikestash.com/shift-lever...ers-p-104.html

[/QUOTE]
And as an update, I think I am going to order these shifters unless anybody has a compelling argument against them...

Thanks!!!

I only read a few of the posts, but looked at all of the pics. Except for replacing the shifters, (yes...the Supurbe are overkill) I don't think I'd buy any parts until I had dis-assembled, cleaned and re-assembled everything. You don't have any bad parts on there. New tires/tubes/cables/housings/chain (why fuss with an old one)...take a week-end and have at it (with the help of your savvy friend). You'll enjoy it and you might find out that the shifters were all you needed.

perfect! thanks. I'm not familiar with what "ratcheting type" means...

Also, with friction shifters, are they compatible with different amounts of gears on the cassette? This link doesn't say...

The photos that you took and the flyer that you posted show 2 different bikes (or maybe the same bike but different years). Your bike is deifnatley a 6 speed not a 7 like the bike in the flyer. The brake levers in the photo are of a much lower end than the bike in the flyer. The rear wheel that you bought says it takes a cassette.

longbeachgary, I think that the bike I have was originally the same as the one in the picture. The handlebars, brake levers the shifters and brakes are not the original. I was trying to figure out whether the crankset is original but I think we can both agree that it is not... making only the derailleur original to the bike.... the freewheel I am not too sure about... although it is the same size as the front wheel which is a match in size to the new freewheel I have purchased... so probably not original.

Some guy gave me this bike for free at a police auction after removing the front wheel because he said it was worth 90 bucks.

Once you get this bike up and running you'll have a very nice ride. Enjoy

Put the rear wheeel with the drive side up. Take a close-up pic of the old freewheel/cassette around the smallest sprocket. This will show if this is a freewheel or a cassette.